Oh my, I'm so scared and confused right now...

I don't have a cam now, I'll try to get one in an hour or so but I'll just post like this for now.

I'll post everythign I did from the beginning okay.

I hvae a compustar CM1000A alarm. Basic unit but I basically got it for remote door lock/unlock cause it's annoying to use the key. ANyways:

I disconnected the negative battery terminal before I began.

THe first connector basically has 4 wires: Red (Constant 12V), Purple (Parking lights), Black (ground), and Grey (trunk), brown (Siren).

I went by this: http://www.commandocaralarms.c...Civic

So, I spliced in the red wire to the white wire in the ignition harness.
THen, I found a ground.
Then, I spliced in the purple wire to the red/black wire in the green plug.

I couldn't find the trunk output and I don't really care about that so I just left it unconnected. I didn't connect the siren yet.

I put in the LED in to the car.

So, now, I figured, why not try to test what I have so far? I didn't connect the door locks or siren or anything but according to my logic, if I have the power stuff plugged in and the LED light plugged in then I can

a) see if the LED is working as it should flash when it's armed
b) see if the parking lights flash when I lock/unlock the doors

So... I went and plugged in the negative terminal on the battery...I didn't tighten it down as I was just putting it back on for a minute to see how its going... and before I could mess with anything (maybe 30 seconds after I put the terminal back on) my car tried to start!!!!! It was in first and handbrake was on so it just moved forward a tad (luckily it didn't hit my other car parked in front of it).....then before I could realize what was happening like 10 seconds later it did it again!!! So I ran and disconnected my negative terminal (thankfully I didnt tighten it so I jsut pulled it off) and here I am.

Can someone tell me what's going on? I will get pics to help diagnose but from what I wrote does anything seem wrong? I'm REALLY surprised because my car doesn't start unless I have teh clutch pushed in when I use the key so how would it bypass that somehow and just try to start now??

Thanks!

Oh it's a 92 4 door.

 

maybe you need to take off the red wire off the ignition harness and find another constant 12v power source like the fuse panel

 

Sorry I can't tell how you're using the world "maybe".

Is it like "maybe you need to _______" as in "obvioulsy you have to _______ you idiot" or like "maybe you need to ______" as in "you could try this ______"?

Did I really connect it in the wrong place? Cause on the12volt.com it says:

1992 Honda Civic Security Information
Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Yellow Ignition Switch Harness


That's why I connected it to the ignition harness.

Thanks!

 

I pick " as in "obvioulsy you have to"

I am at a loss as how an alarm with no starter output could start your car, so that leads me to believe you made a wiring mistake, and the only one I can think of is the light flash output is connected to the cars starter circuit, it is the only output from the alarm with enough current to trigger the starter solenoid, if so, when you try the remote it triggers the starter solenoid.

Take the car outside, place in neutral, connect up the batt., and see exactly what happens.

Does it crank all by itself, without you doing anything except connecting the batt., or do you have to try the remote?

How long is the start cycle, how long does it crank for? 94

 

Okay thanks. I'll try ot get pictures and details tomorrow.

Why is it such an obvious thing though, if every wiring/installation guide for a 92 Civic said to tap into the white wire in the ignition harness? That's exactly what I did.

And, when I was testing it, I don't think I even got to touch teh buttons, it just did it by itself .

Could a bad ground cause this? I'll take pics of everything otmorrow. I coudlnt' today because my mom decided to jack my camera and leave it at work on the weekend .

Thanks.

 

Okay I have an update. I did it again today, this time leaving it in netural and well the same thing happened. BUT, the car does not start.... like you know if you only crank it for half of second it won't start because it needs to be cranked more? That's what happens. I guess the signal is just transmitted for a short period of time, not enough to start the car. Once I hook up the battery, the car tries to start 10 seconds later, and then keeps trying to start again every 5 seconds after that. The remote does nothing. It keeps doing this regarless of whether I push the buttons on the remote or jsut leave it. THe lights or the LED don't flash or anything when I mess with the remote.

Again, here is what I did but this time with pictures. SOrry they are cell phone pics as i didn't have access toa cam.

Here is the brain: In case it's not clear, only the top connector and the LED is plugged in.


I have also included this because the above is blurry:


Here is the purple wire going itno the red and black wire from the green connector for the headlights:



Here is the red wire going into the white wire from the ignition harness. Sorry if it's nto clear but the red wire jsut runs alone the harness for a bit cause I taped it up but I labelled with arrows.



Here is my ground wire running...



To here:




That's about it, anyone have any idea what's going on?

Thanks!

 

Disconnect the violet park light flash output lead from the red/black lead, it is not the park light red/black on green plug @ fuse box, [as location given by the tag in sheet you linked] the park light lead is much smaller gauge.
What I see is a relay, and because it has two black/white leads going to it I would guess it is the starter relay, and you are triggering it with the alarms light flash output.

Your power and ground are OK, disconnect the violet and connect it to the park light free pin on the under dash fuse box, [row of terminals just above the fuses] can't remember which one it is on a 92 Civic, second from the right I think, it is the only one that is hot when the park/head lights are on. 94

 

The fusebox outputs are listed in the sticky.

 

Thank you FCM. YOu seem to be very knowledgeable and a newb like me appreicate the help

Do you guys still recomment I don't connect the constant 12V and such to the ignition harness? Why?

Thanks

BTW while we're here can you guys help me with the door locks?

As you can see here, there are like 6 wires for the locks:



However on the civic it seems there are only 2 wires to lock and unlock. The green/white to lock and the green/red to unlock. SO which wires do I connect to what? And do I just leave the rest disconnected?

 

As I said, power and ground are OK.

For door locks the alarm has relays built in, [that's why so many wires] you will only need 4 of them, the 2 COM., [yellow/black and green/black] ground them to the cars chassis, remove, [depin] the N.C, [yellow/black and green/black] make sure you remove the right ones, then the N.O, [yellow/white] unlock and N.O [green/white] lock will be connected to the cars lock and unlock leads to give them a neg.(-) pulse when you arm and disarm the alarm.


BTW was it the light flash lead that was the problem? 94

 

FCM to the rescue!! Yes that was it

Thanks again.

You slightly confused me with this:

For door locks the alarm has relays built in, [that's why so many wires] you will only need 4 of them, the 2 COM., [yellow/black and green/black] ground them to the cars chassis, remove, [depin] the N.C, [yellow/black and green/black] make sure you remove the right ones, then the N.O, [yellow/white] unlock and N.O [green/white] lock will be connected to the cars lock and unlock leads to give them a neg.(-) pulse when you arm and disarm the alarm.

You say the 2 COM are yellow/black and green/black but they're not, the 2 com is yellow and green. I just saw that the diagram from their site is wrong. The 2 NC and yellow/black and green/black as you said a few words later. So I removed the yellow/black and green/black and will connect the yellow and green on (com) to ground. It's weird though I'm kinda confused because the COM wires are LONG, while the NO are short. Why would they make ground wires long and wires that you have to run allt he way to the door short? Weird.

 

omg, this is a first. lol. I had to go out and test this. The car will bump the starter if you arm it.

 

You can connect it the other way, ground the shorter wires and use the longer ones for the outputs, it makes no differance. 94

 

fcm thanks again, you're a life saver... if you ever come to toronto, drinks are on me

However I'm still having some problems. I can't seem to get anything to work.

Like, the second I plug evertyhing in (except one plug) my LED starts flashing...and never stops. It says to configure my remote I have to put the key to "on" position and then off 5 times in 7 seconds, which I do, and then it says parking lights should flash but nothing happens. And the remote does nothing. The stupid LED jsut flashes. Can you have a look to see if I did anything wrong? I dont have the siren etc connected at this point all I want is for the doors to lock and unlock and I'll work on the rest later (starter kill etc).

Thanks.

I got better pics this time:


Here is the pic of the unit. As you can see, only the main power plug, the door plug, the LED plug and the shock sensor are connected.



Here is the connection to door locks ( I knew its connected shitty, it was temp just ot test it)



Again the power conention:



The shock sensor:



And the parkign lights. I coudlnt figure out to connect it to the thing on the fusebox... so I put it here in teh green harness..does it look right?



And I grounded the other 2 wires for teh door locks in the same place.

ANyone have any idea what i doing wrong?

Thanks.

 

i will use this method.....

 

Chino, what?

The alarm needs the ignition input hooked up in order to sense when you have the key turned.

You need the NO lock to go to your car's lock wire, and the NO unlock to go to your car's unlock wire. You need the common wires to both be grounded. You will not use the NC wires.

I don't know why that idiot was acting so smart and telling you not to go to the ignition harness for constant 12v. You're SUPPOSED to connect it that way.

 

Ditto the above, you should make all the connections before testing the system.

Everything needs to be wired so you can program the remote(s). 94

 

words of advice...use some sort of a digital multimeter to test your wiring BEFORE connecting other wires to them. also... learn to stop parking your car in gear...it's bad practice.
E-brake is your friend and your trannys friend too!


Modified by jz98ctr at 4:39 PM 5/19/2007