Currently, I have two 10" Polk Audio DX Series subwoofers powered by an Alpine MDR M301 amp. The amp is located under the front passenger seat.

For spacial purposes, I would like to just use one of the subwoofers.

-What would need to be done regarding the wiring?
-Will the sound quality be affected too much?

Currently, I have my Pioneer HU set at usually -3 or -2 because the subs are too powerful for my liking.

Here are the specs....The amp was installed at 12V so the RMS is @ 175W.

Polk DX Series Subwoofers:

- Power Range: 50-300 Watts RMS
- Peak Power 600 Watts
- Frequency Response: 20-300 Hz
- SPL 86 dB

Alpine MDR M301 Amp:

-175 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (CEA-2006 Compliant)
-350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms 2-ohm stable MOSFET power supplies Bass Engine® features.

Thanks!

-David

 

the only real issue is the box. If they are in separate boxes, then just remove one and check the speaker wires to make sure the amp is loaded correctly.

If they are in the same box, then new box, then rewire/check wire.

Pretty simple really

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only real issue is the box. If they are in separate boxes, then just remove one and check the speaker wires to make sure the amp is loaded correctly.

If they are in the same box, then new box, then rewire/check wire.

Pretty simple really </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the reply.

They are both in the same box. After transferring to a new box for one of them, what exactly do I need to do regarding the wiring? Will I need to dig up the carpet, etc?

thanks!

 

no, just hook it up to the amp. you can run it at 4 ohm and the sub will receive about 175 watts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, just hook it up to the amp. you can run it at 4 ohm and the sub will receive about 175 watts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would I just use one set of wire from the subs to the amp, but keep the bundle?

I am kind of confused.

 

Oh my.

Agent + wiring = fire. You dont want my help here. However, the nice folks at Roberts Car Audio might be a good solution.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AGENT 99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh my.

Agent + wiring = fire. You dont want my help here. However, the nice folks at Roberts Car Audio might be a good solution.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha. They installed my setup.

I just don't want to have to pay money to get this the way I want it, but willing to pay some.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord95vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Haha. They installed my setup.

I just don't want to have to pay money to get this the way I want it, but willing to pay some.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shouldnt cost much to just wire it from 2 subs to 1.

 

bump from the dead....

 

 

sub to sub will wire it down to 1 ohm . . .. . depending on if you have the amp. bridged. . if you want to hook up only one and get it to bump "hard" then you'll need to get a box tunned to the right hurtz . . it's possible just not easy

 

As mentioned you will need a new box, [with correct internal volume for one of your subs] if two sets of leads has been run from the amp, [mono block] then you can use just one set and cap of the other set or just connect both sets to the single sub, just make sure you get the pos.(+) and neg.(-) correct. 94

 

hmmm sounds a bit too technical that way for me. lol

thanks

So I just went out to my car, and saw a group of wires zip tied (underneath my passenger seat, so it's a bitch to try to get to): a blue wire, red wire, and a black wire with + on it. Couldn't see a - wire. So are you saying that I could leave it as is, and just buy a box for the sub, and then connect both sets of wires to the same single box?

Would unscrewing the lid help much?

Thanks for your all's two quick responses.

 

Another update....

Tried to pry off the bolts to get the seat off, and only 3 came off. The other was a bitch, so I quit.

Please see previous post, too.