I am putting a Z6 into my DPFI EF DX. On one of the DPFI-MPFI write ups I read, it says this:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There will be a connector on the new Si distributor with two unused pins. One of the wires will be blue/green stripe, and the other will be blue/yellow stripe.
- The wire that is blue/green stripe will go to the wire from pin C1 on the ECU and the other wire that is blue/yellow stripe will go to the wire from pin C2.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now I'm not putting an SI dizzy on, I'm just going straight to the Z6 Dizzy. Is that connector with the 2 unused pins on the Z6 dizzy too?

 

You need to add all the wires as if you were going to be running a d16a6 dizzy (EF Si)

Once all the wires are there, you just match the colors to the harness side OBD-1 distributor plug.

All the wires match colors except for blue on obdo harness goes to B/G on obd1 harness plug and the white wire on the obdo harness that isn't bundled in the same band as the other wires, goes to the Y/G on the OBD-1 harness plug. You may have to pull back some of the loom to see the banding around 6 of the obd0 wires.

Hope that helps.

Wire as if you were doing the straight mpfi swap, then do the obd1 changeover.

 

^^ I agree. I've just completed this in my 90 Civic Hatch Std.

 

dam wiring, exatly why i dont wanna do my obd1 mpfi conversion.

 

Could be worse... I went the severe long route. I actually tore apart my old HF MPFI harness and transfered over all the wires that make it MPFI, all the electronic climate control wiring (Civic's have mostly cables that are pushed/pulled), and hardwired my OBD-1 Conversion. Oh, and rebuilt my engine harness so that wires go directly to motor rather than climbing the shock tower and then back down.

 

Yeah, that helps a ton! I was getting confused on what to do first or how to do one thing without having to un-do it for the conversion.

 

Dont forget to wire the wires that are currently on c1 (orange) and c2 (white)
The orange wire goes on b10 and the white goes on b12

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALLMOTORCRX20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont forget to wire the wires that are currently on c1 (orange) and c2 (white)
The orange wire goes on b10 and the white goes on b12 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Got it!

C1 now goes to B10, C2 now goes to B12, what used to be C1 goes to engine bay, same with C2, they'll get hooked up to dizzy later. A3 and A7 both are in the bay now, and will be hooked up to injectors #2 and #4 respectively.

I noticed that when I pulled my resistor box off of my Z6 harness (it's running my 880cc's) there were 4 yellow/black wires going to the red wire on the box. However, the way that the write ups tell me on this conversion is that there are really only 2 yellow/black wires that go to the red wire on the resistor box. What's up with that?

 

Wire up the injectors how they were
4 yellow/black wires to the red wire on the resistor box

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALLMOTORCRX20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wire up the injectors how they were
4 yellow/black wires to the red wire on the resistor box</TD></TR></TABLE>

So if I do that, then I'll have a yellow/black from each injector going to the red on the resistor box.

Then the other wire for each injector is hooked up to the harness (#1 and #3 from the existing harness, and #2 and #4 from A3/A7.

So do the 4 black wires from the resistor box just get hooked up to the injector wires that are on the harness (not the yellow/black, but the other wire)?

 

All injectors have a shared powersource wire whether it be 4 wires that are Red/Black or Yellow/Black. The Blue, Red, Yellow, and Brown are the individual ground wires that the ECU grounds on command to fire the injector.

The two Yellow/Black wires that went to the old Dual Point injectors are both power wires... you'd just tap into one or both (two injectors each, not two power wires together!) for all the injectors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueCrxNC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The two Yellow/Black wires that went to the old Dual Point injectors are both power wires... you'd just tap into one or both (two injectors each, not two power wires together!) for all the injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could you elaborate on that? Now I'm confused again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "One of the DPFI to MPFI writeups" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(Engine Compartment):
- Mount the injector resistor box up on the drivers side shock tower.
- Connect the yellow/black wires from the two DPFI injector harnesses and run it to the yellow/black wire on the injector resistor box.
- Connect the yellow wire from the DX injector to the #1 injector (brown wire).
- Connect the red wire from the DX injector and run it to the #3 injector (blue wire).
- Connect the wire you labelled A3 to the #2 injector (red wire).
- Connect the wire labelled A7 to the #4 injector (yellow wire).
- Then, connect the 4 red/black wires coming from injector resistor box to each of the four injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

See, if I follow this, I will only have 2 yellow/black wires going to the red wire on the resistor box. Is that fine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danmdevries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to add all the wires as if you were going to be running a d16a6 dizzy (EF Si)

Once all the wires are there, you just match the colors to the harness side OBD-1 distributor plug.

All the wires match colors except for blue on obdo harness goes to B/G on obd1 harness plug and the white wire on the obdo harness that isn't bundled in the same band as the other wires, goes to the Y/G on the OBD-1 harness plug. You may have to pull back some of the loom to see the banding around 6 of the obd0 wires.

Hope that helps.

Wire as if you were doing the straight mpfi swap, then do the obd1 changeover. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So C1 and C2 need to be wired to the DISTRIBUTOR side plug, not the engine side plug, right?

 

Yes, the C1 and C2 wires need to go to the DISTRIBUTOR PLUG

A1, A3, A5, A7 from the ECU go to the injectors.
Those colors vary on the stock SI harness
They should be blue, yellow, brown and red (not in that order)
Each injector has 2 wires, the other wire should be yellow/black if its obd-1
It's going to be red if its obd-0
Either one of those goes to the resistor box

 

Ok, cool so I think I get it. The 2 yellow/black wires on the original DX DPFI harness are power, and they go to the red wire on the resistor box.

A1, A3, A5, and A7 (blue, yellow, brown, and red) are the wires that go to the ECU.

The other wire on each injector matches up with a black wire coming off of the resistor box.

Sound right?

 

^^ What you last said for the injectors is correct.

Sorry, I didn't mean to confuse you. I wasn't thinking. I forgot you were using the resistor box. If you were to use Saturated Injectors (no resistor box used) then what I said would be relevant. Sorry for the confusion.

 

No worries! It just got me thinking more. Not always a bad thing. Unless you do too much of it too late in one night.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danmdevries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to add all the wires as if you were going to be running a d16a6 dizzy (EF Si)

Once all the wires are there, you just match the colors to the harness side OBD-1 distributor plug.

All the wires match colors except for blue on obdo harness goes to B/G on obd1 harness plug and the white wire on the obdo harness that isn't bundled in the same band as the other wires, goes to the Y/G on the OBD-1 harness plug. You may have to pull back some of the loom to see the banding around 6 of the obd0 wires.

Hope that helps.

Wire as if you were doing the straight mpfi swap, then do the obd1 changeover. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Since I am cutting off the OBD0 dizzy plugs and soldering on the OBD1 plugs, could I then just run C1 and C2 off of the OBD1 plug? I dont see why that wouldnt work. That way I can take the distributor off if I need to, and it wont be attached to those wires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboGoKart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Since I am cutting off the OBD0 dizzy plugs and soldering on the OBD1 plugs, could I then just run C1 and C2 off of the OBD1 plug? I dont see why that wouldnt work. That way I can take the distributor off if I need to, and it wont be attached to those wires. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You should do this, just make sure you do a good job soldering so they dont come off. This is what i did too, but I just twisted the wires and put electrical tape. I did a good job though

 

Lol, I just went ahead and did it even though I asked. I thought about it for a good minute, and it made sense to me, lol.

Almost done. That freakin crossmember sucks a big one. I dont have time to order an aftermarket one right now, so I'm cutting the **** out of it to fit my Lovefab 3" downpipe. We'll see if it works or if I have to make a new one.