My buddy just put his first motor together, rebuilt with all OEM parts. He has complete B17 motor. We started the car up for 10 seconds and noticed oil shooting out under the #1 cylinder. (closest to the distrubutor) It looks like it is coming from between the head and the block. It is really pouring out, like the length of a pencil thick.

Is there a oil line that may not be hooked up?
He seems to think that he forgot to put the dowel pin back in the head. He said the head was torqued 22 ft/lbs, and then 30 ft/lbs.

Any help would be appreciated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pearl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> He seems to think that he forgot to put the dowel pin back in the head. He said the head was torqued 22 ft/lbs, and then 30 ft/lbs.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

first: cylinder 4 is closest to the distributor.

second: he needs to pull the head off and read the service manual carefully. final torque on any B-series head around 60-61ft/lbs. NOT 30...

third: why would he put the head on if he knew a dowel pin was missing?.....as simple as the dowel pin may be it's extremely important for head to block alignment and gasket sealing which is why it's pissing oil out everywhere.

your friend needs to leave engine building to someone with experience. its defiantly not a first time DIY kind of job.

good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first: cylinder 4 is closest to the distributor.

second: he needs to pull the head off and read the service manual carefully. final torque on any B-series head around 60-61ft/lbs. NOT 30...

third: why would he put the head on if he knew a dowel pin was missing?.....as simple as the dowel pin may be it's extremely important for head to block alignment and gasket sealing which is why it's pissing oil out everywhere.

your friend needs to leave engine building to someone with experience. its defiantly not a first time DIY kind of job.

good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thank you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

first: cylinder 4 is closest to the distributor.

second: he needs to pull the head off and read the service manual carefully. final torque on any B-series head around 60-61ft/lbs. NOT 30...

third: why would he put the head on if he knew a dowel pin was missing?.....as simple as the dowel pin may be it's extremely important for head to block alignment and gasket sealing which is why it's pissing oil out everywhere.

your friend needs to leave engine building to someone with experience. its defiantly not a first time DIY kind of job.

good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the help, and the way i see it is, everyone needs to start somewhere. I am not someone to go out and pay tons of money to have people do **** when i can either do it or learn to do it.

When searching for the correct head bolt torque specs 33 for stock head bolts seemed to be all that i found and around 80 for head studs.

The dowel pin isnt missing i just forgot that i had moved it to the front hole when i had the motor apart.

Since you seem to have experience maybe you could help me out?

 

There are 2 dowel pins. Front and rear.

 

I took it apart and realized that the dowel pins were in the right place but since i was rushing i had put the head gasket on wrong lol