First off, my car is a '91 hatch with a b18a block and b18b head. My mechanic just finished swapping the old b18a head for this '94 b18b head. The car ran fine before some valves were bent from jumping teeth, hence the head swap. Now after the swap the idle jumps from 600-1500rpm on start-up for 30 seconds or so, then it hold steady around 1500 which is way too high to idle. When I drive, it seems like the car is hesitant and is not using all of its power and if I try to hold a constant throttle on the highway it briefly seems to sputter or cut in and out.

Also, the exhaust fumes smell like straight gasoline, and my hatch is covered with a nice dusting of carbon. I went through 1/2 a tank in like 50 miles, so I know its dumping fuel in like crazy. How do I fix this? Here are some pics that may or may not help you.....(I was concerned about the hoses/vacuum in that area)

 

up...

 

ok im a little rusty but that looks very wrong on the firewall there.

notice the map sensor and stuff on the firewall needs a vacuum source.



ALSO, what injectors did you use, pre-obd or obd1 and if you used the newer injectors, did you remove your resistor box?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok im a little rusty but that looks very wrong on the firewall there.

notice the map sensor and stuff on the firewall needs a vacuum source.


ALSO, what injectors did you use, pre-obd or obd1 and if you used the newer injectors, did you remove your resistor box?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That image is for a b16a in a crx. Its probably different than my set-up. The injectors are the same ones that were on there before when it ran fine, so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Your MAP and FPR vacuum routing appears to be totally wrong and if so would explain your extremely rich condition. The MAP is suppost to be plugged into the vacuum nipple on the throttle body (in your pic there is no hose on that specific nipple). Plug your FPR's vac hose into a vac nipple on the backside of the intake manifold.

Oh and whoever worked on your car has NO clue as to what they are doing.

The vacuum diagram above is correct and it should be followed. Its the same for an obd-0 B16 B18 or B20.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your MAP and FPR vacuum routing appears to be totally wrong and if so would explain your extremely rich condition. The MAP is suppost to be plugged into the vacuum nipple on the throttle body (in your pic there is no hose on that specific nipple). Plug your FPR's vac hose into a vac nipple on the backside of the intake manifold.

Oh and whoever worked on your car has NO clue as to what they are doing.

The vacuum diagram above is correct and it should be followed. Its the same for an obd-0 B16 B18 or B20.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks...

The guy that worked on it actually has 20 years of wrenching experience, but he's an old timer and doesn't know much about newer technology/hondas/foreign cars, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef n00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks...

The guy that worked on it actually has 20 years of wrenching experience, but he's an old timer and doesn't know much about newer technology/hondas/foreign cars, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem.

I wouldnt let that guy touch your honda again. 20 years experience and he doesnt have enough smarts to check a manual for a simple vac routing diagram? I dont have anywhere near 20 years experience but i could route those hoses with my eyes closed! LOL...good luck with getting it running right.

 

Your vaccum lines are all fubar'd. Follow the diagram posted...It'll run better after that.