Having alot of trouble with Idle issues with my OBD2, H22A. We where getting misfires on all 4 cylinders, and did some trouble shooting. My tech replaced the EGR Valve, and cleaned it with the EGR valve from my OBD1 intake. He also replaced all sparkplugs, sparkplug wires, and cleaned the distributor cap. I started up fine and I took it out to see if it would throw any codes and to get it up to operating temperature. On the way back to the shop it stopped Idleling, so we put back on the old EGR Valve and it started Idling. I drove it for 9 miles and it started again.

 

I am having a similar problem with my Accord right now. It will idle fine when cold but once it gets to operating temp it just dies at idle and misses like crazy. I am replacing my MAP sensor right now (waiting for it to come in the mail) and if this works I will let you know. If it isnt this and you find the problem let us all know.

 

No problem!

 

On your throttle body near the top in between the two bolts to take it off, there is a flathead screw that you can turn. Did you try turning that screw? Turning it to the left makes the rpm's go higher, and turning it to the right makes the rpm's go lower. Your car sounds like mine use to. That little screw is probably too far right.

 

It was running great for awhile. Are you sure?

 

what codes is it throwing?

 

None. It is idling now, but it kinda sluggish.

 

do what i'd do.....build the motor, turbo it, and go obd1 p28 with hondata, remove the egr, and BOOM!- problem gone.

 

I have to pass emissions!

 

you have to know SOMEONE that owns or works in a shop that could hook you up with a fake emissions pass.

 

they don't even care at all where i live......i could have fuel leaking out the muffler catching on fire and they'd be like......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1994PreludeSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On your throttle body near the top in between the two bolts to take it off, there is a flathead screw that you can turn. Did you try turning that screw? Turning it to the left makes the rpm's go higher, and turning it to the right makes the rpm's go lower. Your car sounds like mine use to. That little screw is probably too far right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried and it died faster. Could it be the map sensor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChrisRicketts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they don't even care at all where i live......i could have fuel leaking out the muffler catching on fire and they'd be like......

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ahaha thats exactly how it would be like in Texas if we had to do that.

 

i personally think the best way to go is do a leak down and compression test on your cylinders..dont waste money on ignition stuff cause it seems like its not...most like on a h motor its ur valves that cause your car to idle and die like that...so i say check the cylinders theres pretty much something wrong in them.

 

The H Motor is fresh from H-Motorsonline. Compression Test were performed by Hmotors-onlines and its documented. I am wondering if putting 89 octane gas in has anything to do with it?

 

I just found a leak in IACV hose that goes under the throttle body.

 

i know this is old post but you should use a higher octace fuel anyway. your prelude engine asks for 90 or 91 if advanced timing. 89 is kinda pov.