I know ARP hardware is good to have..

Just wondering if it is REALLY necessary..

I have ARP head studs, and decided that with my new GE sleeved block, i should have ARP mains as well...

shootin for 500+


thanks

 

im in the same boat ... everyone i talk to says u don't need them but i figure it can't hurt either.. the only thing to worry about is installing them prior to having the block sleeved in case there is any distortion due to the higher torque required, and also the line honing to.. im in for more info ...

 

someone told me that you should be careful with them because of the extra torque... now im wondering if I should even bother

 

i use em in all my builds, according to hte manual you should replace the main bolts anyway, so i think of em about like head bolts... why not..

just make sure you line hone it when you use em

 

im gonna go with a new set of oe's. i also considered aftermarket but im not gonna go that route.

btw my goals are 450ish whp

 

Form what I understand, if your block is sleeved you should have your mains line bored anyways. I just have my machinist torque the mains studs down and do it. IMO you should be using them for 500hp anyways. Hope this helps

 

all good suggestions...


does GE line bore the mains when they sleeve, or do you need the crank for that?

 

I actually have a block there for some HD sleeves as we speak. They do not line bore unless requested/paid for. Did they do a final hone on your cylinders? Or do you still need machine work done?

 

yea.. they bored to 84mm...

 

Did you send them your pistons or did you just ask for 84mm sleeves?


Modified by 92DAturboteg at 7:04 PM 3/13/2007

 

if they line hone your engine after they sleeve it, they usually have to do it again if you add main studs and again if you add a girdle. so im just waiting until i pick up some aebs mainstuds and a function7 girdle to get my block line honed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92DAturboteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you send them your pistons or did you just ask for 84mm sleeves?


Modified by 92DAturboteg at 7:04 PM 3/13/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

asked for 84mm sleeves... then ordered CP pistons for it..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topdawgg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

asked for 84mm sleeves... then ordered CP pistons for it..</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are going to need to put a final hone on your cylinders anyways, you might as well get the studs and have your machinist line the mains when he does the bores.

 

that sucks... didnt think i would need a hone..

 

Dude it's really not that big of a deal. Who is building your engine? Is it you? Or do you have a builder. If your doing it yourself going to need to figure some things out like piston to wall clearance and main/rod bearing clearance. IF none of this makes sence to you, you should probobly find someone local to build your engine. There are many tight tollerances that need to be taken into consideration when putting a hone on either the cylinder bores or main bores. I hope this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92DAturboteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude it's really not that big of a deal. Who is building your engine? Is it you? Or do you have a builder. If your doing it yourself going to need to figure some things out like piston to wall clearance and main/rod bearing clearance. IF none of this makes sence to you, you should probobly find someone local to build your engine. There are many tight tollerances that need to be taken into consideration when putting a hone on either the cylinder bores or main bores. I hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok man, i hear ya... im just trying to understand what exactly is done when the block is sleeved... trying to see what all is done by them
Cause last year i had my block checked... it needed to be bored to 81.5mm.. then i just ordered 81.5mm pistons to match... and that was it...

Im just assuming that it would be the same thing with a sleeved GE block...


as for clearances.. this is also the first time im concidering to use ARP mains, and didnt think that the extra torque would really play a factor in the bearing size i choose...

 

Al GE does is install the sleeves in the size you want, mill the deck for flatness and send it back to you, unless you tell them otherwise. It is up to you but I always check my cylinders with a dial bore gauge and mic my pistons to make sure I have the piston to wall clearence that I want. After your mains a re alighned with the studs in place and torqued, you will have a change in your main bearing clearence. Which may not mean that you have to resize but you should be able to fiure it out with plastgauge or bluprinting instruments. You seem as though you are getting agitated with me so I will keep my engine building secrets to myself.

 

Jdogg, what does your machinist do to compensate for the cranks new position after a line bore?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92DAturboteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Al GE does is install the sleeves in the size you want, mill the deck for flatness and send it back to you, unless you tell them otherwise. It is up to you but I always check my cylinders with a dial bore gauge and mic my pistons to make sure I have the piston to wall clearence that I want. After your mains a re alighned with the studs in place and torqued, you will have a change in your main bearing clearence. Which may not mean that you have to resize but you should be able to fiure it out with plastgauge or bluprinting instruments. You seem as though you are getting agitated with me so I will keep my engine building secrets to myself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not agitated at all man...