Just finished getting everything in my swap, gsr in a 99 dx...everythings stock besides a BLOX IM and chipped ecu from pherable.

AND on the canister on the firewall where fuel comes from, it leaks a little when the car is on!

The idle is just go up and down really fast on start up. Thing is i don't have the throttle cable hooked up because I still need to figure if I can reuse the d-series cable or need something else...never found an answer but said I could start it, but not drive...Could that be it?

Also, have a crazy coolant leak. Found out I was missing a hose or plug. I have no idea what it is or what it needs to go to. Best picture I can get for now...

It's under the big hose behind the IM, it has like a little bend to it where it points down, about 90º...




Modified by Dudikoff at 8:57 PM 3/8/2007

 

Ok figured out the coolant problem now have a few others

-Idle is still fucked up
-Shotting a little spark from the starter when i turn it on
-Crazy squeeking noise from some where on the driver side. I loosened the alternator belt a little but it's still doing it.

Here's a video...you can kind of see the spark come out by where the power goes into it, not sure where the little puff of smoke comes from after I shut it down. You can hear the loud *** squeek and idle as well...

http://www.yourfilehost.com/media.php?cat=...015Untitled.WMV

 

yes you can use the d-series t/b cable.

i didn't see any spark in the video, but if your getting sparks from the starter, then something is touching metal when it cranks. double check the wires connected to the starter.

as for the squelly belt. do you have a/c, or p/s? how far did you adjust the alternator belt?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes you can use the d-series t/b cable.

i didn't see any spark in the video, but if your getting sparks from the starter, then something is touching metal when it cranks. double check the wires connected to the starter.

as for the squelly belt. do you have a/c, or p/s? how far did you adjust the alternator belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

took out a/c awhile ago when i had the stock dseries and removed the p/s when i got the new motor in. but the p/s line is still there.

the squeek wasn't there the first few times i started it but it just started. before i adjusted it, it was all the way in the back but still had a little slack, i just moved a little up so there's a tiny bit more slack.

 

make sure the connections at the starter are clean and tight, same thing with the belts, get new ones if they look old and make sure there snug

a shitty idle can be from a vacuum leak, check vacuum hoses and gaskets

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure the connections at the starter are clean and tight, same thing with the belts, get new ones if they look old and make sure there snug

a shitty idle can be from a vacuum leak, check vacuum hoses and gaskets</TD></TR></TABLE>

the alternator belts looks new still and i just put in a new timing belt before the motor went it. but i'll go back and clean up the starter.

 

still making the skreetch but i think the spark stopped atleast.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dudikoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">still making the skreetch but i think the spark stopped atleast.</TD></TR></TABLE>

when i checked your link for the video, that squeeky sound did sound like a belt.
just replace it, even though it may look new. it has to be that, the timing belt won't squeek.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

when i checked your link for the video, that squeeky sound did sound like a belt.
just replace it, even though it may look new. it has to be that, the timing belt won't squeek.</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn. how tight should the timing belt be? mine seemed to have gotten a little tighter than the last time i checked.

 

hum the spark is back but now you can really see it. i guess its coming from somewhere behind the starter? im uploading the video right now and the skreetch seems to be getting worse and worse so i think im done starting it for now

http://www.yourfilehost.com/me...2.AVI

 

that screech is coming from the alt. belt, make it tighter!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that screech is coming from the alt. belt, make it tighter!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

WHAT lol, one says too loosen it now tighten?

 

!

 

ok just tightend the belt and it's as much as i can. don't wana start it till i can get that starter fixed

 

who said to loosen it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ridin98civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who said to loosen it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

someone on another forum...

as for the starter, is there supposed to be a nut here? EDIT: THERE IS SUPPOSED TO BE ONE THERE.



i still can't figure out how it could shot a spark from behind the starter?



Modified by Dudikoff at 12:20 AM 3/10/2007

 

Haha wow...I guess you can see in the video the starter moves a bit, had a lose bolt on me. Supprised no one caught that in the video...

 

anyone know about the FITV?

First yellow arrow on the left...where does it need to go?

 

thats not a FITV, it's a idle air control valve (IACV) and the coolent hoses go in series with the throttle body or you can just disconnect them all together and just leave the coolent hoses on the throttle body (this is what I did)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats not a FITV, it's a idle air control valve (IACV) and the coolent hoses go in series with the throttle body or you can just disconnect them all together and just leave the coolent hoses on the throttle body (this is what I did)</TD></TR></TABLE>

wait so you can just leave the iacv vaccum (the one of the left) disconnected? did you plug it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats not a FITV, it's a idle air control valve (IACV) and the coolent hoses go in series with the throttle body or you can just disconnect them all together and just leave the coolent hoses on the throttle body (this is what I did)</TD></TR></TABLE>

you have a picture of it? this is on a gsr motor swap btw..

 

hey man for the idle problem ir you went to a chiped obd1 ecu try pulling the IAC plug. i just had the some problem on my y8 drove me ****** nuts for a mounth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dudikoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you have a picture of it? this is on a gsr motor swap btw..</TD></TR></TABLE>

the picture you posted with the "thing" on the back of the intake manifold, that is a IACV and those rubber hoses with the yellow arrows are coolant lines that are designed to heat up the IACV in cold weather thus heating up the air bypassing it and thus heating up the engine faster

you can disconnect the hoses and run them just in the throttle body or leave them there, doesn't matter, use your head