i juss got my car tuned last week. since then i only drove the car 3 times.
the car only over heats when i get traction. i may only get 2 or 3 good pulls in before the needle gets to halfway.

first thing i thought was the head was lifting under boost. note* wen i assembled the motor i used a OEM 2 layer metal headgasket with arp headstuds. i tourqued them down 2 80ft lbs in incriments of ten.(i got the advise from jeff evans at the time he said to tourqe it to 80 with motor oil)
also i removed all my spark plugs and looked into each cylinder to see if there was any carbon washed away(which if the headlifted coolant would have washed it off) and all were the same.

motor has 3500 n/a miles on it n never had a cooling problem. it doesnt smoke or hesistate either

i also hooked up a slim fan to push with my OEM fan thru my 2 1/4 in aluminum radiator.

my tune was very conservitive i talked to my tuner 2day.

my next thought would be to remove the thermostat n wire the fan to stay on. but i dont want to mask a problem that is already there.

any help is appreciated.


my setup is posted here. its a lil bit different but most is true

http://turbod16.com/viewtopic....light=

 

You might have a blown head gasket.

 

Do you know how much timing your runnining under boost?

 

i dont know exactly but i talked to my tuner 2dayn he said i wasnt running too much.

i cant figure i blew the headgasket that quick. like i said there was no washed out cylinders and no smoke. i even pressure tested it and everything cheak out fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16z6Tcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know exactly but i talked to my tuner 2dayn he said i wasnt running too much.

i cant figure i blew the headgasket that quick. like i said there was no washed out cylinders and no smoke. i even pressure tested it and everything cheak out fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

What EMS is it?

Have you don't the simple things like check the coolant, remove the air in the cooling system, etc?

 

with y8's you have to be real carefull with timing

I got the same problem, I believe. I am only at 5psi but after doing a hwy run, I got back on the main road and my temperature needle was a little past half way and the car was idling funny, I immediately looked at my overflow tank and it had spilled over and was bubbling, headlift or sleeve walk caused by too much timing with the y8 squared off combustion chambers.

I went to crome, lowered my timing, hasn't happened since.


Modified by willyboyK20 at 9:04 PM 2/24/2007

 

im tuned on crome

yea i've bleed the system (idle w/ cap off full heat) checked the fan. checked leaks checked thermostat. ect

 

You can send me the file at the email in my profile and I'll take a look.

 

i would have to call my tuner n get a print out. is there anything i can do in the mean time if its not my timming?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16z6Tcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would have to call my tuner n get a print out. is there anything i can do in the mean time if its not my timming?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Printout? I want your calibration file for Crome.

 

Aftermarket internals? Detonation leads to blown headgaskets on the d series motors.

 

whats hot? You said halfway, thats normal, or you mean halfway to hot, from normal? Get an aftermarket water temp guage, the factory one is hardly accurate. I had a motor NA, never overheated, put in the aftermarket temp guage, kept running 200 - 210 degrees. Thats hot, boosted it, and started pushing coolant like crazy. Changed head gasket, all better.

 

After a hard run do you see any bubbles in your overflow?

does your overflow level continue to raise after each hard run?

 

Is your radiator fan coming on? Thermostat?

 

yea after a hard run my overflow is full and pushing it out . im guessing the head is lifting. how though if i torqued it down to 80ft lbs?

 

yes, you are lifting the head.

go back to your tuner and have them take a significant amount of timing out.

You'll most likely need a new head gasket too.

 

Aren't you supposed to use ARP Moly lube on their studs? I was under the impression that it was a requirement and not an option.

 

not a requirement just a different torque setting, i believe they recommend you to use a bolt stretch gauge when using oil