Joeb1983

Freshly fully built turbo d16y8 with 600 miles on motor with little (2-3psi) or no boost. (Been driving it like a grandma!) New water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, etc.. The head was sent out to be machined and is also fully built and professiionally installed. Arp head studs with a honda oem head gasket. Driving home the other day after putting 600 miles with no problems, I looked down at the temp gauge and noticed it was overheating. Shut her down and pulled over. I noticed the radiator fan (FAL) was not coming on. I let her cool down and checked the fan fuse. It was good. Swapped relays and still no fix. After cool down I drove home with the heat on. After I got home the and it sat for a few hours the fan started working again, but then stopped for good. The next morning on the way the work it again started to overheat. I then bypassed the fan switch and the fan came on. So I purchased a new fan switch and all was good for the rest of the day. Fan was coming off and on as it should with no overheating problems. This morning I drove 26 miles to work with no problems untill about 1 mile from base when I noticed the temp was creeping up again and the fan was not coming on again!... So here we are. Any ideas guys?...

philafelman

see if you are getting power at the fan motor when its not turning on.

Dekorum

Ever solve this problem? I have been having a very similar problem and I also have a FAL. I wonder if that's the actual problem. Mine is very intermittent but usually turns off after I am driving for a long time and then I run into traffic and have to stop and start a few times. I replaced the hood fusebox fan relay and that seemed to work for a while, but then the problem returned.

holmesnmanny

Replace your fan switch. Normally if the problem is the fan motor it will just flat stop and not work anymore.

Dekorum

Where is the fan switch? I am not sure what you are talking about, sorry!

holmesnmanny

Follow the lower radiator hose to the back of the engine. Where it connects is the thermostat housing. The thermostat is inside of that. There is a sensor sticking out of that housing with a connector on it. Remove the connector and take off that sensor with a deep socket. Should be like a 19mm size socket I think. When buying another one, just ask for "fan switch, located on thermostat housing".

Dekorum

Thanks man!
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

So would it be number 11, thermostat switch assembly? And not 12, water temperature sensor assembly? They both look like similar style switches that most likely have connectors on them.

What are the chances that this fixed the problem? 50 dollars is a little steep if it doesn't work.

mikelusmc12

it's number 11, check your grounds too.

Dekorum

Ok. I've checked my grounds. I've also heard this problem could be linked to a bad ECT sensor, number 12. Sometimes when this happens and I have to turn off my car in traffic to prevent it from overheating too much, it doesn't start back up at all when I turn the key and just sits there not cranking.

mikelusmc12

have you tried taking a piece of wire and putting it in the 2 pin connector that would connect to the fan switch to bypass the switch and turn it on manually? I've had to do that before because I thought my switch was bad, but it was the connector it's self because one of the metal contacts inside where broke.

Dekorum

No I have not tried yet because my fan turns on when it is supposed to, usually.. except for those times when I am caught in traffic after a long time and then I don't really have time to pull over and jump the connector. But I'll try next time.

holmesnmanny

If you want to confirm that that part will fix your problem, buy a used one at the junkyard. If it works, you can choose to buy a new one if you want.