vtec+white smoke= BAD!
95 GSR into a 92 CX shell
white smoke after vtec, my crossover is at 4900 chipped p28 skunk2 settings
checked my fluids, i have to add a quart every 3 weeks
when changing oil, the oil isnt milky
compression checked it, 160 all across
coolant is still green
sometimes when normally driving it smokes, for example..this always happens
im in 5th gear coasting it downhill my foot not on the gas pedal, RPM's at 2-3 grand and white smoke jus starts coming out of the exhaust
1)another example, jus downshifting from 5 to 2 coming to a stop light, it smokes
2)the smoke lingeries for about 4 seconds then stops
3) i smell something burning everytime white smoke comes out, sometimes it smells like toffee or something sweet and other times it smells like ***
im thinking its a headgasket, valve stem seals , valve guides or possibly fried rings
white smoke after vtec, my crossover is at 4900 chipped p28 skunk2 settings
checked my fluids, i have to add a quart every 3 weeks
when changing oil, the oil isnt milky
compression checked it, 160 all across
coolant is still green
sometimes when normally driving it smokes, for example..this always happens
im in 5th gear coasting it downhill my foot not on the gas pedal, RPM's at 2-3 grand and white smoke jus starts coming out of the exhaust
1)another example, jus downshifting from 5 to 2 coming to a stop light, it smokes
2)the smoke lingeries for about 4 seconds then stops
3) i smell something burning everytime white smoke comes out, sometimes it smells like toffee or something sweet and other times it smells like ***
im thinking its a headgasket, valve stem seals , valve guides or possibly fried rings
Hate to say it but white smoke=blown head gsket, especially with the situation you described having. 160 is very low for a GS-R, which would normally put out around 210 per cylindr although alot of compression gauges can be innacurate.
Is your car consuming coolant?
Blown Head gaskets seam to be a common problem on B-Series, but for a proffessional they can be changed in a matter of hours. Just make sure you have the head surfaced by a reputable machine hsop ()and check the deck with a straight-edge (preferably a good one like Snap-On)) and use a good torque wrench when torque-ing the head bolts.
A couple of good ways to test a blown head gasket on a B-Series (In which the gasket typically blows between the combustion chamber and the cooling jackets) is to let the car warm up and see if there is an abnormal amount of pressure in the upper/lower radiator hoses, and holding your hand against the muffler for a couple seconds and seeing how much moisture you get on your hand.
Is your car consuming coolant?
Blown Head gaskets seam to be a common problem on B-Series, but for a proffessional they can be changed in a matter of hours. Just make sure you have the head surfaced by a reputable machine hsop ()and check the deck with a straight-edge (preferably a good one like Snap-On)) and use a good torque wrench when torque-ing the head bolts.
A couple of good ways to test a blown head gasket on a B-Series (In which the gasket typically blows between the combustion chamber and the cooling jackets) is to let the car warm up and see if there is an abnormal amount of pressure in the upper/lower radiator hoses, and holding your hand against the muffler for a couple seconds and seeing how much moisture you get on your hand.
what is bugging me is this:
if the head gasket is blown from water to cilinder, it should overspill from the reservoir...
if the head gasket is blown from water to oil rail, it should milk the oil...
and white smoke, usually white thick smoke (thick like a like a white cream, only in gassios state) is shown when the HEAD is cracked!
if the head gasket is blown from water to cilinder, it should overspill from the reservoir...
if the head gasket is blown from water to oil rail, it should milk the oil...
and white smoke, usually white thick smoke (thick like a like a white cream, only in gassios state) is shown when the HEAD is cracked!
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Do a leakdown test before you go and rip off your head. It can be a simple problem. Compression seems a little low, did you have it at WOT when testing? Did you pull the ecu fuse? Check out your valve seals and guides before you go and get that done.
yea just check for the leak...i mean..you will probably be able to find it since most of it is in plain sight...and if you cant afford it, no you really dont have to send the head out...i mean...does it hurt to...no...but you dont have to...you only really HAVE to send it out if your car begins to overheat...then you should..but if its still been running fine you dont really have to...i still would, but its not a complete necessity
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