i need to get new lug nuts,

ive originally wanted to get the buddy club P-1 racing nuts,

but when i saw my friends rays lug nuts and compared them to other no name brand lugs, these where soooo much lighter than anything ive ever seen,

honestly so light, that i think they would break lol. but they probably wont


you could tell just by holding them that these weigh almost nothing compared to others.


any one ever try the buddy club p-1 vs. the rays lugs?

"Rays Engineering, the maker of Volk Racing Wheels, has released a new line of performance lug nuts. Made from Duraluminum, these lug nut are extremely strong and light (the Rays lug nuts are 0.8 oz. each compared to 2.1 oz. for the stock pieces)"

what about muteki?

I'm probably gonna get the newer dura-nuts by rays.






Modified by RED DA at 3:50 PM 2/9/2007


Modified by RED DA at 4:37 PM 2/9/2007

 

IIRC, you should be using aftermarket lugs for aftermarket wheels, otherwise OEM lugs for OEM wheels. Too me i would not care about the weight of a lug nut, but the security of my wheel staying on the hub.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Money &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IIRC, you should be using aftermarket lugs for aftermarket wheels, otherwise OEM lugs for OEM wheels. Too me i would not care about the weight of a lug nut, but the security of my wheel staying on the hub. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Mostly correct. What you need to do is to get lug nuts for which the seating area has the same shape as the seating area on the wheels. The seating area is the area where the lug nuts come into contact with the wheels. OEM wheels and OEM lug nuts have a ball-shaped seating area. Most aftermarket wheels and most tuner lug nuts have a conical-shaped (tapered) seating area. However, there are exceptions! For example, if you walk into Autozone and ask for lug nuts for your Honda/Acura car, they usually carry a choice of lug nuts, with either ball-shaped or tapered seats. I'm not sure but it's possible that some of the aftermarket makers of lug nuts and wheel locks may offer them with a ball seat. (I know that the wheel locks you buy at the dealer that are labeled with the Honda/Acura brand are actually made by McGard.)

 

thanks for the input, im sure these will work for my after market wheels,

any one else ever seen the buddy club p-1 lugs, or held them in ur hand?
i want to know how they compare to the rays dura-nuts.
or know the exact spec. weight in oz. (.8oz for rays.) (?oz. for buddy club)

i still want to consider these as an option.

i think im gonna get the buddy club p-1 lugs a little bit cheaper but not sure if i want to buy it.

not to mention the rays come with a set of heptagonal lugs(7sided) for theft prevention/protection. i know there are a lot of people out there getting jacked.

it doesn't matter to me that much, i just like to have things done right the first time, with out having to spend money again later for a poor choice in an attempt to save money. im on a low budget, planing to get a paint job(black)

 

dont the rays lugnust get discoloration after a while? i'm planning on getting a set of skunk 2s when they have a deal in the marketplace.

 

it has been said that the red ones will fade/lighten. i don't think that the black ones will fade tho

skunk2s? ill check those out too

 

i've been very happy with my mutekis for the price. unless you're professionally racing, don't worry about the weight of your lugnuts.

 

even then, all you have to do is pee before the race to lighten the load

light weight lug nuts, really now

 

"if you are going to lose weight on the car, the wheels/tires and lug nuts are the best place because they are rotational. Basically, when taking off rotational mass it ends up affecting power/weight ratio more then if you had taken the same amount of weight out of the car etc.."
So I'm told.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

These small differences in weight, can affect the car more so than expect. since these are 1.3 oz lighter than others, each, that saves 5.2(4lug) 6.5(5lug)/tire. It adds up, specially when that **** is spinning fast at 30+ mph already.

It's not really meant to save over-all curb weight of the car, since 21oz. isn't that much at all, but i see what your thinking.
i wouldn't spend $100+ to save that small amount weight when i could just take out all the interior for free. or i could spend $500+ on carbon fiber hood/truck/fender, acrylic glass and the whole thingy- thang.

ps these look way nicer than my ugly open end stock crappy lugs, haha they all messed up looking

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RED DA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it has been said that the red ones will fade/lighten. i don't think that the black ones will fade tho

skunk2s? ill check those out too </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the black Rays lugs on my car. They don't fade, but the corners are a little chipped, and silver metal shows through the black. I also swap tires once a month for autocross, so each lugs gets taken off and put back on twice a month, which a lot more wear and tear on the lugs than a normal daily driver car would endure. I'm also about to get rid of them, they just aren't worth the hassle. You can't use an impact, or take it to any shop that would, for fear of cracking the nuts.

Someone once told me, "No other nuts on the car are made out of aluminum, why would you hold the wheels on with one?" and I'm starting to understand. They're very very soft. Honestly, during an HPDE, the last thing I should have to think about is the strength of my lug nuts. I recently had a flat tire, and since I'm an idiot and didn't keep 4 OEM lugs in the car for the spare, I had to use the Rays lugs to use the spare. Just tightening them down creased the lugs, because of the different seat shape. Thankfully, I have a set for a 5 lug car and can throw those 4 away, as I wouldn't trust them now.

New, they look great. They're the only flat black lugs I've seen. But, I'm done with them. Expensive and weak might be fine for some things, but I need to know without question that my wheels will stay on the car at speed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RED DA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"if you are going to lose weight on the car, the wheels/tires and lug nuts are the best place because they are rotational. Basically, when taking off rotational mass it ends up affecting power/weight ratio more then if you had taken the same amount of weight out of the car etc.."
So I'm told.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

These small differences in weight, can affect the car more so than expect. since these are 1.3 oz lighter than others, each, that saves 5.2(4lug) 6.5(5lug)/tire. It adds up, specially when that **** is spinning fast at 30+ mph already.

It's not really meant to save over-all curb weight of the car, since 21oz. isn't that much at all, but i see what your thinking.
i wouldn't spend $100+ to save that small amount weight when i could just take out all the interior for free. or i could spend $500+ on carbon fiber hood/truck/fender, acrylic glass and the whole thingy- thang.

ps these look way nicer than my ugly open end stock crappy lugs, haha they all messed up looking</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are correct that unsprung weight affects more than sprung weight, but there are much better places to put your money than lugnuts. get mutekis, they are high quality, light, and a fraction of the cost.

 

kinda funny, i bought the forged skunk2 lug nuts the day b4 this post

 

sounds correct, thats why people used to rock the spoon sw388's, PIAA fr7s
and other light wheels

Ussually the 15's provide well balanced characteristics, coupled with a good predicatble tire... they are just big enough to accomodate a decent brake
but small enough in diameter to shave off enough unsprung mass from the drive train after the clutch to give precise handling characteristics and a good responsive acceleration