got it for 800 bucks because it was wrecked. It has very High Mileage. 287k But i was wondering what i could do to insure this motor. I dont want to do a Complete rebuild, but what are some things i could do without removing the motor? But overall the car runs good all the times ive drove it (before it was wrecked).lol. It tics when its idling i figured a good valve adjustment would take car of that Well all help would be greatly appreciated.

 

here is a pic before it was wrecked. ( it was hit in the front, It didnt hurt it TO BAD)


And look at my purdy *** sol.lol.

 

when was the clutch last replaced? fluids (power steering, brake, clutch, coolant, etc)? timing belt? Gaskets?

 

Timing belt doesnt have 1k miles on it, Clutch is great and very stiff, power steering leaks somewhere im in the process of finding the leak.......I know all the usual maintance things. I just want something a step further than that.

 

does it have the b17?

 

it sure does.

 

had a 92 red B17a1 was nice but it would be so much faster with that tranny with a B18C1 thats what i had..

and the block is still in my garage collecting dust. lol

 

so they are a good motor? Any more recomendations to my " Tune-UP"??

 

Unless it's a high performance aftermarket clutch, stiff pedal usually means it hasn't been changed in awhile. Usually when you replace your clutch and throwout bearing and put fresh grease on the input shaft and release fork, the clutch pedal will feel fairly light. That is, unless it has a very stiff pressure plate.

My Clutchmasters Stage 1 feels fairly stiff now, but it has over 100K miles on it. When I first installed it, the clutch pedal was so light I stalled it several times.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> When I first installed it, the clutch pedal was so light I stalled it several times. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Everyone does this with a new clutch

Congratz on the purchase (can't see the pics btw). Would look into doing regular maintenance on anything that wasn't previously done. Plug/Wires/Dist Cap and rotor, coolant flush, oil change, you get the point

 

alot of ppl on other sites re saying it wont last much longer, dont be reving it hard, Rebuild it, But im trusting you guys know Alot bein the Tech site it is. Im looking for a list of things i should do, I already have the basics in my head.

 

oh and will that b18c1 tranny work considering mine is cable and its hydro or does it make a difference? Oh one more question. All B-series parts are interchangeable right? Like i can buy a header for a b16 and put it on my b17. B17s are kind of the odd ball motor.

 

[QUOTE=1lowsol2]oh and will that b18c1 tranny work considering mine is cable and its hydro or does it make a difference?QUOTE]

Innovativemounts.com makes a cable to hydro conversion for like 120 bucks i think. Good investment if u have a hydro tranny to put in ur DA!

 

ight thanks might come in handy one day

 

So are ALL parts w/ B-series interchangable?? Like what if i got new Valves and Valve springs for a 99 Si for my B17a1 would that work? Headgaskets? I know cams are interchagable. Will a New Head gasket Help My compression? since it has 287K on it

 

For the most part, It should all be iterchangeable, with the exceptions of the connecting rods, and crankshaft I believe....GL on your build, and a B16 header should work fine...

 

ight i found this on EBAY- Full Head rebuild Kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem


Can i trust this kit? Since it is EBAY and all. And if i went ahead and put a new water pump/plugs/wires/rotor cap/change oil/filter/tranny fluid/maybe all new valve and springs. Would that be good enough? Could i be able to drive and run this B17a1 hard? With 287k.lol.

Thanks for the help

 

Right now im just gonna fix the front so it look descent then imma tear the motor apart after i get my PLAN together .lol.

 

That kit is fine, I prefer OEM....But with your kind of mileage, you need to build your block...like new bearings, maybe hone the cylinders, and drop in new pistons, and add ARP bolts...of course in conjuction with your head rebuild..

 

So im lookin at probally 400-600 in parts plus the Rebuild. It better be worth it.lol.

 

Im assuming i can use B16/b18 pistons/rings ect. and ill use my stock connecting rods.

 

Well i can find aftermarket pistons and rings very easily for b16/b18 so imm thinkin imma go with one of them