Amp killing the Alternator?
How can I keep this from happening? Can I just get a Cap for my amp and that will fix it? Cause right now if I do turn the sub up a bit loud then my lights will start to flicker some. Whats a good cap to get?
Would getting a cap, better alternator, and Optima Yellow Top deep cycle battery be overkill?
Would it be okay to just go with either one? The cap seems to be the cheapest. I don't know how much alternators go for but the batteries you're talking about cost like $150+ don't they?
Would it be okay to just go with either one? The cap seems to be the cheapest. I don't know how much alternators go for but the batteries you're talking about cost like $150+ don't they?
Cap's are like sticking a bandaid over a wound... It will hold the blood down but it won't fix the problem, it just keeps you in working order until teh wound scabs over. But unless you absolutley need as much power as possible at all times, a cap will do just fine. In other words, if you aren't running a spl competition level system, do yourself a favor and just get a cap.
Stay with class D amps for your subwoofer. I know someone who had a big-*** PPI Power class amp powering 2 12w6s in his Civic Si and another 4 channel for mids and highs. The amps drained so much current the car would sometimes shut off when he drove it with the stereo cranked along with some accessories. We took a voltmeter to his battery when the system was cranked and saw voltages as low as 10.8 volts when the bass hits.
He switched to a JL500/1 and 300/4 and is happier now. A 15 Farad cap didn't work before. Keep in mind that Hondas have small alternators. High-output alternators are NOT designed for daily drivers. They are designed for occassionally driven competition vehicles. This kid went through 2 of them from a well known alternator company and they admitted they are not expected to last more than a year in a daily driver.
Deep cycle battery, upgrade your alternator and battery and ground wires under the hood and be realistic with your amplifer selection.
He switched to a JL500/1 and 300/4 and is happier now. A 15 Farad cap didn't work before. Keep in mind that Hondas have small alternators. High-output alternators are NOT designed for daily drivers. They are designed for occassionally driven competition vehicles. This kid went through 2 of them from a well known alternator company and they admitted they are not expected to last more than a year in a daily driver.
Deep cycle battery, upgrade your alternator and battery and ground wires under the hood and be realistic with your amplifer selection.
ok...i have 2 amps right now too...i have an amp for my kappas inside, a kenwood KAC-848...and an amp for my 2 Polk DB12's, a kenwood KAC-728...i'm not into competitions or anything...i have the stock battery, stock alternator...
my headlights, tailights, and also the lights on my gauges dim when the bass hits hard...will a 1 farad capacitor help with this problem?
also, i was told by some others on this board that my subs can handle a much more powerful amp such as a JBL bp600.1 and even a BP1200.1...if i do decide to upgrade my amp, will the capicitor still be enough??
my headlights, tailights, and also the lights on my gauges dim when the bass hits hard...will a 1 farad capacitor help with this problem?
also, i was told by some others on this board that my subs can handle a much more powerful amp such as a JBL bp600.1 and even a BP1200.1...if i do decide to upgrade my amp, will the capicitor still be enough??
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does the brand of capacitor matter?? i found this capacitor on ebay...http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1353178251
its a american legacy 1 farad digital...
its a american legacy 1 farad digital...
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), if you don't have a setup you plan on taking to a spl comp, just get a cap.

