i got an extra b16 block and id like to start a fun little project with it...at first i was gonna put it back together with 11:1 je pistons but since its gonna be apart id like to go with a little more power and displacement....since i already have the pistons im looking for a company that makes a customlength rod for this application....im sure any company that makes rods will do it but im looking for someone who has already done it to make things a little easier and probably a little less inexpensive as well...
im open to any suggestions of companies i should talk to...does golden eagle make rods? theyre pretty close to me and ive heard a lot of good stuff about them

 

I would do a B16 rod and a custom piston with a compression hieght around 0.940 or so.

 

is there any particular reason you prefer a custom piston rather than a rod?

wouldnt running b16 rods on an ls crank make the piston very tall and heavy?

 

The B16 rod is 5.290 long. You want to use a 89mm crank. That's 12mm longer than the B16 77mm crank. So you will need to use a rod that is 6mm shorter (you only see half of the stroke on top). So the rod needs to be 5.054" long if you want to use pistons with 1.181 CH.

Moving the pin up (lowering the CH) makes the piston shorter.


That gives you a 1.44 R/S.

 

Yeah, but you run into the Tech43 problem, placing the pin in the vicinity of the oil control rings.

You can get custom rods from Eagle, but they are expensive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, but you run into the Tech43 problem, placing the pin in the vicinity of the oil control rings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can get (and have gotten) CP Pistons to make me pistons that don't have the pin hole intersecting the oil ring grove. This is only possible on bigger bores though, 84mm and up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Don Lackey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The B16 rod is 5.290 long. You want to use a 89mm crank. That's 12mm longer than the B16 77mm crank. So you will need to use a rod that is 6mm shorter (you only see half of the stroke on top). So the rod needs to be 5.054" long if you want to use pistons with 1.181 CH.

Moving the pin up (lowering the CH) makes the piston shorter.


That gives you a 1.44 R/S.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh ok i see what you mean...
the stock piston has a 1.181 CH?
by doing so i will still have 1.8 displacment correct?

please excuse my lack of knowledge...this is my first time rebuilding a block and id like to know as much as i can before i start purchasing parts
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, but you run into the Tech43 problem, placing the pin in the vicinity of the oil control rings.

You can get custom rods from Eagle, but they are expensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how much is expensive? over 500-600? all their production rods are around 350.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Don Lackey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I can get (and have gotten) CP Pistons to make me pistons that don't have the pin hole intersecting the oil ring grove. This is only possible on bigger bores though, 84mm and up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well it wont work for me then will it?...i believe im better off with a custom rod

 

will i have any issues of the piston going too far down in the bore?

do i need to remove the oil squirters or can i reposition them?

if there is a demand for it i will do a write up on it as well for any body else interested in this build...

 

I would call Cunningham Rods - they make very good rods.

 

To use the LS rod you would need a piston with a 21 mm compression height. Your R/S will be 1.54
To use a PR3 piston, you would need a rod with a length of 128 mm. Your R/S will be 1.44.

Based on others experience, I would go for the custom rod. It's going to hard for the oil control ring to work well with the additional features required for the pin to be in the correct place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how much is expensive? over 500-600? all their production rods are around 350.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I believe that is about right.

 

"I can get (and have gotten) CP Pistons to make me pistons that don't have the pin hole intersecting the oil ring grove. This is only possible on bigger bores though, 84mm and up."

^^!?(like they do in metal gear) You got any pics of that or is that another "secret".

 

Not a secret. I just call 949-567-9000 and talk to Darius at CP Pistons. As easy as ordering airline tickets.

 

Thank you sir. That's going in my notes. It'll definetly work in an H series.

 

which brings us back to the original point.(i swear im not trying to be sarcastic )
so cunningham and eagle are both reputable companies to contact. thats a good starting point...anybody else have any suggestion of places to try?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, I believe that is about right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats not bad.

 

Arais makes a piston too. Moves the wrist pin up to allow the use of a 89mm crank and ls length rods in a b16 block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96Spec Ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Arais makes a piston too. Moves the wrist pin up to allow the use of a 89mm crank and ls length rods in a b16 block. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If I remember correctly those were the tech43 pistons reffered to earlier made by arias

 

[QUOTE=Suck my DX]will i have any issues with the piston going too far down in the bore?

do i need to remove the oil squirters or can i reposition them?

QUOTE]

 

just reposition/bend them back. but they can stay.

 

custom pistons with wirst pin location moved up 6mm, standard maley b16 rod length, R/S ratio is dead on at 1.5, here's my setup,
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1780228
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1860713

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx=si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">custom pistons with wirst pin location moved up 6mm, standard maley b16 rod length, R/S ratio is dead on at 1.5, here's my setup,
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1780228
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1860713 </TD></TR></TABLE>
how often do you rebuild?

 

haven't rebuild it so far, 40 passes down the track, 212 dyno pulls, 2% leak down on monday.....

 

Inline doin it big!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx=si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haven't rebuild it so far, 40 passes down the track, 212 dyno pulls, 2% leak down on monday.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow thats impressive...gives me the confidence to do this build...
i contacted eagle and they said they dont make a custom rod for this setup so i think im just gonna get a custom piston made and use my stock rod...id rather work with the piston i already got. but cunningham wants more than i can afford at the moment for a custom rod and im told that my rod stroke ratio will be very low...i figure since i got forged pistons anyways to get forged rods but stock pistons should work fine for the power level ill be at and i wouldnt mind experimenting with a custom piston if it would be a more sensible way to go...this is my first build and things get a little overwhelming sometimes...so i turn to you pros to guide me in the right direction.
is rod stroke ratio based solely on the length of the rod or does wrist pin location affect it...for instance why would i have a 1.44 RSR by using stock location wrist pins and 6mm shorter rods but you have a 1.5 RSR with wristpins 6mm lower and stock length rods?
also have you had any issues with oil consumption?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow thats impressive...gives me the confidence to do this build...
i contacted eagle and they said they dont make a custom rod for this setup so i think im just gonna get a custom piston made and use my stock rod...id rather work with the piston i already got. but cunningham wants more than i can afford at the moment for a custom rod and im told that my rod stroke ratio will be very low...i figure since i got forged pistons anyways to get forged rods but stock pistons should work fine for the power level ill be at and i wouldnt mind experimenting with a custom piston if it would be a more sensible way to go...this is my first build and things get a little overwhelming sometimes...so i turn to you pros to guide me in the right direction.
is rod stroke ratio based solely on the length of the rod or does wrist pin location affect it...for instance why would i have a 1.44 RSR by using stock location wrist pins and 6mm shorter rods but you have a 1.5 RSR with wristpins 6mm lower and stock length rods?
also have you had any issues with oil consumption?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you don't want to use custom pistons, I suggest you build a b18 block instead.....your rod stroke ratio is rod length divide by stroke length, so your motor with standard wrist pin location with 6mm shorter rods, which in this case, stock b16 rods are 134mm minus 6mm (your "suppose" custom rods) equal 128mm, take 128mm divide 89mm (ls stroke) will give you 1.44 R/S, now if you're having custom piston with wrist pin location moved up 6mm, then you can use standard b16 rod length which is 134mm divide by 89mm (ls stroke) equal 1.5 R/S,........and 2% leak down means no oil consumption, .......on the side note, seriously, if you don't want to get custom pistons for this setup or don't have the knowledge of basic engine geometry (something as simple as R/S ratio), you shouldn't try to stroke a motor at all....