So I have done some reading and I am going to break ground on my project within the next week or so.

I have a ek hatch and my goals with the car is to keep it completely street trim with full interior and trap 150+ in the quarter. I am looking for some suggestions on the setup I have put together.


Bottom End
K24 Bottom end with Golden Eagle HD 89mm Sleeves
CP forged 9:1 Compression Pistons
Pauter Forged Rods
ACL Bearings
ARP Fastners

Top End
K20 Cyl head
Supertech Valves
Supertech Dual-Spring Valvesprings
Supertech Valvespring Retainers
Skunk2 K20A3/K24 Turbo1 Cams
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Custom Sheet-metal Intake Manifold w/ Wilson 80mm TB
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
Precision 1600cc Injectors

Turbo
Full-Race Prostreet T4 divided Manifold
Custom 4" v-band downpipe
Garrett GT4294R
Two Tial 44mm Wastegates
Tial 50mm Bov
Custom Intercooler w/ 3.5" hot/cold piping

Trans
Rsx Type-S 6spd Gearbox
Quaife LSD
Tilton Carbon/Carbon Twin Disc Clutch

I think thats about it.

 

SFWD limits the K series to 2.4L displacement and the gt42r is not allowed. I believe a 66mm inducer is the max.

 

with a list like that, you must have lots of $ to throw away.

 

Nice list but ditch the 6 speed, you will destroy it with anything more than 450HP. Go w/ a base model/EP3 5 speed, they are cheaper and the gears are longer making it more ideal for boost.

 

I don't really look forward to racing the car competitively.
I'm not really concerned with any payouts and most of all, I don't wanna put up with changing stuff to suit some rulebook. I want my car how I want it. I am just looking to build a sick street car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJslvrtypes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice list but ditch the 6 speed, you will destroy it with anything more than 450HP. Go w/ a base model/EP3 5 speed, they are cheaper and the gears are longer making it more ideal for boost.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Regarding the trans. How would longer gears be better suited for a boost application? I know with the B-Series a lot of guys run either the GSR-ITR-B16 trans on most of the turbo applications over the LS trans that has longer gears.

 

so how much do u want to spend???

 

if its a street car, save your money. A simple stock sleeved k20 with rods and pistons will do the job. Just remember high hp cars suck to drive on the street. Also the K24 bottom end will output more torque on the street then your tires will ever hold. And if you insist of still going this route, bore to 87 first, no need to go to the 89 right away. Your going to want to save room for future rebuilds. And, your going to want to run the 5spd tranny, the Type-S gears are too short, specially with a K24 bottom end. Once again torque will own you.

Just my $0.02

 

Overkill
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=6
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13129
You can save alot of money by looking at a few set up's on stock K24/20's make 600+ hp I just happen to save this on. http://www.k20a.org &lt;--- check here
For cam's I would go with http://www.intrinsicperformance.com

 

Almost everyone of those high hp "stock" motors has blown, most of which were due to rod failure. If your looking for serious hp at least swap out the pistons/rods they are not that expensive.

The 5 speed has longer gears allowing you to stay in boost longer. The 6 speed sucks, point blank both in gearing and strength.

4th gear is usually the 1st to go on the 6 speed. Here is mine after 15PSI on a T67:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJslvrtypes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Almost everyone of those high hp "stock" motors has blown, most of which were due to rod failure. If your looking for serious hp at least swap out the pistons/rods they are not that expensive</TD></TR></TABLE> Sir2egk blew because of booost spike on the dyno because on a line coming lose had it not spiked it would still be running strong. I believe dc5_rsx has been up and running for almost a year now at 560ish hp The k24 is a beast with the right tune 600+ on stock bottom end is becoming more and more common.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Puscifer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Regarding the trans. How would longer gears be better suited for a boost application? I know with the B-Series a lot of guys run either the GSR-ITR-B16 trans on most of the turbo applications over the LS trans that has longer gears. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are correct and if your tire/rev limiter combo will allow you to go 150 in the 1/4, keep it. The stay longer is boost crap is garbage. You will definately want to get a gear based boost controller. Or set it up in K-pro. That along with some MH 235/60 or MT 235/60 radials will help keep the tires on the ground at those power levels.

As far as strength of the gears are concerned, check these two threads. I am using a heat treated gear set from RacerStev on here and no issues so far. ITR gearing, 600+, street driven:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1692990

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1851316

You have a nice setup man. Same clutch that I am running too. Its a nice piece. Good luck with it.

 

your post count is ******* ridiculous.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strictly.business &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your post count is ******* ridiculous.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He lives on the interweb

I was also contemplating switching from the 6spd to the ep3 5spd but I figured I need to get my engine assembled first then I'll worry about the tranny, lol.

 

Sheesh. Everyone's going K series now days... . Blownhatch, and now you precisionH23.

Meh...it just means my B series parts will start to depreciate to the point at which I can actually afford them.

 

Yea... It only took me about a year and 3 K series builds later before I saw the light

I was a bit hesitant at first but I feel very comfortable working on them now and they are the future. Good news is I have all the K stuff... but I just need to find time to put it together as well as finish up the cage! lol

 

Has anyone by chance used or tested those Skunk2 Turbo1 Kseries cams?

Also, how high are the K24 bottom ends capable of spinning safely with built head and bottom end??

 

9000rpm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea... It only took me about a year and 3 K series builds later before I saw the light

I was a bit hesitant at first but I feel very comfortable working on them now and they are the future. Good news is I have all the K stuff... but I just need to find time to put it together as well as finish up the cage! lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not going into your red prelude is it? I'm not even sure if you still have that car...haha.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sheesh. Everyone's going K series now days... . Blown90hatch, and now you precisionH23.

Meh...it just means my B series parts will start to depreciate to the point at which I can actually afford them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Na. I tune a lot of them, but I am still running my same setup from 2003...B-series turbo. Same block since 2000. Too much dinero for me to go K-series.