Ok, I have a few questions I can't figure out. So I request some help, please.
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From: SLC, UT
Ok, I have a few questions I can't figure out. So I request some help, please.
1997 Civic HB, Auto to man conversion, D16Y8 swap. 120K on head, "50k" on block. 217k on Body
1. My car runs a rough idle and runs rough from Idle to about 2k then its smooth, same head that I used on my Y7 and that did not have rough idle. But when I disconnect the injectors they all make the engine bog except when I disconnect #1. So I switched the #1 and the #2 and the same problem is happening (#1 does NOT change the idle). Could my Fuel Rail be clogged? Could some wiring be wrong?
BTW Injectors are ticking, and they never ticked before until about 2k miles ago and then it is even periodically.
2. When my car is cold and when I am driving when I let off the gas I get a rattle sound, but only when I let off the gas. When the car warms up all the way it stops. But it makes that sound up until its warm for about 2 minutes. I think that it is rod knock, can anyone confirm this? Or could this some how some way be related to the problem in question 1?
3. Would it be OK to drive my car with the PS belt off until I can fix the leak, which wont be for about another month? Would I cause any damage to anything?
Thanks.
1. My car runs a rough idle and runs rough from Idle to about 2k then its smooth, same head that I used on my Y7 and that did not have rough idle. But when I disconnect the injectors they all make the engine bog except when I disconnect #1. So I switched the #1 and the #2 and the same problem is happening (#1 does NOT change the idle). Could my Fuel Rail be clogged? Could some wiring be wrong?
BTW Injectors are ticking, and they never ticked before until about 2k miles ago and then it is even periodically.
2. When my car is cold and when I am driving when I let off the gas I get a rattle sound, but only when I let off the gas. When the car warms up all the way it stops. But it makes that sound up until its warm for about 2 minutes. I think that it is rod knock, can anyone confirm this? Or could this some how some way be related to the problem in question 1?
3. Would it be OK to drive my car with the PS belt off until I can fix the leak, which wont be for about another month? Would I cause any damage to anything?
Thanks.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: SLC, UT
Re: Ok, I have a few questions I can't figure out. So I request some help, please. (ozz9955)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ozz9955 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactlly does the rattle sound like? And can you pinpoint where it is coming from? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Can't pin point. and it sounds like a single rock in a soda pop can and very rapid.
Can't pin point. and it sounds like a single rock in a soda pop can and very rapid.
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From: MD
Re: Ok, I have a few questions I can't figure out. So I request some help, please. (pumpkyn)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pumpkyn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1997 Civic HB, Auto to man conversion, D16Y8 swap. 120K on head, "50k" on block. 217k on Body
1. My car runs a rough idle and runs rough from Idle to about 2k then its smooth, same head that I used on my Y7 and that did not have rough idle. But when I disconnect the injectors they all make the engine bog except when I disconnect #1. So I switched the #1 and the #2 and the same problem is happening (#1 does NOT change the idle). Could my Fuel Rail be clogged? Could some wiring be wrong?
BTW Injectors are ticking, and they never ticked before until about 2k miles ago and then it is even periodically.
2. When my car is cold and when I am driving when I let off the gas I get a rattle sound, but only when I let off the gas. When the car warms up all the way it stops. But it makes that sound up until its warm for about 2 minutes. I think that it is rod knock, can anyone confirm this? Or could this some how some way be related to the problem in question 1?
3. Would it be OK to drive my car with the PS belt off until I can fix the leak, which wont be for about another month? Would I cause any damage to anything?
Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
have you done a compression test or leakdown test?
1. My car runs a rough idle and runs rough from Idle to about 2k then its smooth, same head that I used on my Y7 and that did not have rough idle. But when I disconnect the injectors they all make the engine bog except when I disconnect #1. So I switched the #1 and the #2 and the same problem is happening (#1 does NOT change the idle). Could my Fuel Rail be clogged? Could some wiring be wrong?
BTW Injectors are ticking, and they never ticked before until about 2k miles ago and then it is even periodically.
2. When my car is cold and when I am driving when I let off the gas I get a rattle sound, but only when I let off the gas. When the car warms up all the way it stops. But it makes that sound up until its warm for about 2 minutes. I think that it is rod knock, can anyone confirm this? Or could this some how some way be related to the problem in question 1?
3. Would it be OK to drive my car with the PS belt off until I can fix the leak, which wont be for about another month? Would I cause any damage to anything?
Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
have you done a compression test or leakdown test?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: SLC, UT
Re: (Archidictus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you take the PS belt off and drive around, you may squirt fluid out of the reservoir and all over your engine bay. I suggest not doing that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
currently there is no fluid present in my reservoir. its all leaking out of driver side boot
currently there is no fluid present in my reservoir. its all leaking out of driver side boot
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: SLC, UT
Re: Ok, I have a few questions I can't figure out. So I request some help, please. (B18EG6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
have you done a compression test or leakdown test?</TD></TR></TABLE>
havent had a chance to
have you done a compression test or leakdown test?</TD></TR></TABLE>
havent had a chance to
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From: MD
Re: (pumpkyn)
The fact that when you disconnect one injector the engine doesnt change means something is wrong with that cylinder. Have you drained the oil and looked through it? Are the motor's internals stock?
A leakdown test or compression test will not take very long and will yield very good diagnostic info. One would be purely guessing if they were to try and solve your problem from the given info.
I dont think this is the case - but what are the colors of your injectors wires? I am currently at work... but from what I remember the colors should be
cyl 1 -brown
cyl 2 -red
cyl 3 -blue
cyl 4 -yellow
A leakdown test or compression test will not take very long and will yield very good diagnostic info. One would be purely guessing if they were to try and solve your problem from the given info.
I dont think this is the case - but what are the colors of your injectors wires? I am currently at work... but from what I remember the colors should be
cyl 1 -brown
cyl 2 -red
cyl 3 -blue
cyl 4 -yellow
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