I replaced my OEM 237K miles fuel pump last night to a Walbro 255 I believe, i ono, but i took it out for a spin, went to McD's and headed to the nearest Mobile 1 gas station. while heading towards it my car just cut off! crusing at 45mph, i tryed to crank it but then i didnt hear the fuel pump. When i put it on Acc i believe when u put it on Acc the yellow check engine light turns on which would be the fuel pump then turn off and also the ecu led light would blink for the fuel pump indicator, well now when u put it on Acc the Yellow check engine light stays on and no blink what so ever on the ecu. My gas is at a quarter tank.

Friends told me its probably the Fuel Pump Main Relay which is were? and also is their a fuse for the Fuel pump?

 

The fuel pump relay is the main relay.its under the dash on the driveside right near that tiny little tray...If you go under there with a flash light you'll see it,but ill try and get you a picture.

 

look at this website it shows where it is,,and how to possibly fix it instead of replacing

http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm

 

yes the main relay is your problem it is a 6 or 7 pin connector replace that or to temp fix it you can open and close the ACC ignition until you hear the click from the relay and the check engine light off.

 

i hear a click click click when i put it in acc

 

Allright i found the relay and when i smack the top of it the check engine light twitches off! Is the relay the cause?

 

sounds like it. when my relay was starting to go i had to bang it every now and again to get it going..But sometimes the car would still die while cruising which sucks.

 

yes sir the relay is the cause of this problem.

 

i just got another relay and it does the same thing, can the ecu be the cause?

 

is their a fuse for the fuel pump

 

YES! - Its a fuse issue form what I have read. People seem to have this issue with EFs and Walbros for some reason. It pops a fuse under the dash. I never read up on how to fix it, I just went with a different fuel pump. Im not positive which one it is, do a seach on it and see what you come up with. Ill see if I can find anything. Check your fuses, (I think it might be the alt. /selinoid (sp?) one but Im not sure, check em all)

 

No fix but verified that it is the Alt./selinoid fuse that pops https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1300215

People say that you shouldnt run a higher amp fuse, but that seems to be what some people are doing and not having any issues with it. I only seached for like 10 min tho, there a lot more thead to dig thru.

 

dude if it is that one, omg ill be so happy brb im going to run outside in the cold *** weather to see. L0l

 

ya dude the fuse was blown but, runs like **** lol. but fuel pump kicks in and the check engine light stays on. Throws a cel 3 MAP and 1 o2 but ive been running on those codes for a while and the cel light never went on for that. but ya the fuse starts to get hot. why?

 

PM lightning motorsports about it. He would prolly know why since he sells them. I can tell you why I think its getting hot and popping is possibly because it requires more voltage/amperage to run then the stock pump. Some people run a 5 amp higher fuse and dont have an issue. If your going for big numbers anyways, just rewire your relay and fuel pump for a bigger gauge wire.

 

fuse keeps blowing when i get on it wtf

 

same thing happened to me coming off the highway i changed the fuse to a 20 amp is this going to be a problem in the future

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rex89 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">same thing happened to me coming off the highway i changed the fuse to a 20 amp is this going to be a problem in the future</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup toasted wires