Okay im currently in process of rebuilding a b18b1 and need some good tips and advice.

Setup will be for boosted at 8psi in a 1997 Integra LS


List of parts:
Valve Cover gasket
Valve Stem seals
NPR piston rings
king rod bearings
ARP 1.8L 8MM Rod Bolts
Headgasket
Cam Seals


What else should i replace?
Also..

As for as getting parts hot tanked? Pistons and Rods
And i read i need to get my block honed? How much does that cost usually?
and hand cleaning valves good enough or should i go into more process?

Thanks.

 

Don't cheap out. Use OE piston rings, rod, main bearings, head gasket, etc.

Just get it rebuilt. First and foremost, FIND A GOOD, REPUTABLE MACHINE SHOP IN YOUR AREA. Too many people in this profession do shitty work! Completely tear it down before taking it to the machine shop. Use sandwich baggies and a sharpie, and label EVERYTHING. Take in the bare head, the bare block (w/ main caps), pistons, rods (w/ caps), and the crank. Remove all of the sensors, and have the machine shop take out ALL of the galley plugs before hot tanking anything. You can do it yourself if you have the proper sockets, but those sockets can be a bitch to find. This is so all of the oil and coolant passages will get cleaned out.

Have them bore the cylinders if they need it, and hone. Have the piston rings and all of the bearings fitted. As for the head, get new valve seals. You may even want to get a stock valve job done. When you bring everything in, they will tell you what you should get done. Get everything fitted so that all you need to do is just bolt everything together.

ARP head studs are a good idea, and so is a new aftermarket cam seal. Also, now is the time to get a new clutch if you need one. Same goes for the oil and water pumps, timing belt, tensioner, etc.

You're from Columbia, SC? I bet Stunna Ben knows of a good machine shop around your area, or can at least point you in the right direction.

 

Well, since he is building for boost, I think he should 'cheap out' and buy ACL bearings that have a Tri-coating like the stock VTEC bearings instead of the Bi-coating that is on stock LS bearings. The ACL's must be checked for proper clearances, if any aren't within your acceptable tolerance, you can substitute an OEM bearing. ACL's are installed in many competent high-end Honda rebuilds and have great success for less than 1/3 the price of OEM. Just look at all the high power engines on this site and look at their build list, more often than not, ACL's are the bearings of choice.

Hastings makes great piston rings as well and can save you 1/2 the price off OEM.

As for the rest of the parts, OEM all the way. Honing runs about $60 at most machine shops. And you should consider some new valve seals for the head and have it inspected/pressure tested.

 

I would suggest a block guard to prevent cylinder float. You can also do a main cap girdle like you would find on a GSR although you have to buy GSR main studs, oil sump, oil pan, and windage tray.

 

The engine ran good except one of the cylinders person forgot something and made it run like good all except run cylinder. But do i really need to get it honed or is that just something u kinda wanna do or what?

As for hot tanked i think just cleaning up by hand is good enough correct? Hot tanked is just a appearance thing? Too make it look new?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam92Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, since he is building for boost, I think he should 'cheap out' and buy ACL bearings that have a Tri-coating like the stock VTEC bearings instead of the Bi-coating that is on stock LS bearings. The ACL's must be checked for proper clearances, if any aren't within your acceptable tolerance, you can substitute an OEM bearing. ACL's are installed in many competent high-end Honda rebuilds and have great success for less than 1/3 the price of OEM. Just look at all the high power engines on this site and look at their build list, more often than not, ACL's are the bearings of choice.

Hastings makes great piston rings as well and can save you 1/2 the price off OEM.

As for the rest of the parts, OEM all the way. Honing runs about $60 at most machine shops. And you should consider some new valve seals for the head and have it inspected/pressure tested.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ACLs are fine, but if you go with ACLs and one doesn't fit, don't make it fit. Get a new bearing from Honda.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Creator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would suggest a block guard to prevent cylinder float. You can also do a main cap girdle like you would find on a GSR although you have to buy GSR main studs, oil sump, oil pan, and windage tray.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Block guards are junk.

 

How much do you have to spend?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by McGeeTM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The engine ran good except one of the cylinders person forgot something and made it run like good all except run cylinder. But do i really need to get it honed or is that just something u kinda wanna do or what?

As for hot tanked i think just cleaning up by hand is good enough correct? Hot tanked is just a appearance thing? Too make it look new?</TD></TR></TABLE>

3/4s of your engine didn't run good. Your whole engine ran bad. Yes, you need to hone your cylinder walls. Honing is where you make a crosshatch on your cylinder walls (think of a file) to wear in your new piston rings. No hone = no crosshatch = piston rings that don't seat. Hot tanking doesn't just make the outside shiny. expletive that, who cares. It's about cleaning the gunk out of your oil system, and carbon deposits from your ports, etc.

I can see the outcome now. Just throw any half built POS in your car and get it over with. If you need to rebuild your engine, don't halfass it. You can still be on a budget, and spend enough to get it done right.

 

moneys not a problem and i have plenty of time i was just wondering what each things purpose was, thanks for the insight of the hot tanking and honing def will do that

so hot tank the head? what about the pistons and rods?

 

Hot tank the block, head, pistons, and rods. It doesn't cost that much. Get the head resurfaced, and the block also if it needs it.

 

Since we're all on the topic of engine rebuilding,
Where did you find your sources on torque specs for the engine, McGee?

Wondering if there actually is enough around the internet,
So as it would not involve me Having to buy a Helms book.


Don't wanna threadjack, so if you dunno, it's cool also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanLikeJdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since we're all on the topic of engine rebuilding,
Where did you find your sources on torque specs for the engine, McGee?

Wondering if there actually is enough around the internet,
So as it would not involve me Having to buy a Helms book.


Don't wanna threadjack, so if you dunno, it's cool also.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can dl the helms from a couple of sites

 

Okay ill do that.


Modified by McGeeTM at 11:28 PM 1/3/2007

 

If block guards are junk then tell me why I had to toss my old block due to the fact there was an 1/8th inch variance between the top and the bottom of the cylinders.

 

You ruined your block because you ran it into the ground when your engine wasn't built to handle the abuse. Perhaps your block guard wasn't properly installed and ended up doing more harm than good.

Search for 'block guards', and find out that the general opinion around here on them matches mine.