very disappointed at comp test results
well i just did a compression test on the beater and was not very happy at all. here are the results:
cy 1: 0-5 psi
cy 2: 150 psi
cy 3: 155 psi
cy 4: 150 psi
of course the reason why i did this was the timing belt snapped on me about a month ago while idling at about 2k rpm in park and i just replaced the t-belt and the other belts.
i have two questions for you guys: would it be best if i pull the head and inspect it and if valves are burned etc. have it rebuild?? or avoid this route cause i have a feeling cy 1 piston rings are fried and mind as well consider the motor toast and look into swaping with another...any ideas.
edit: beater is an auto 93' accord with 169xxx and f22a6.
cy 1: 0-5 psi
cy 2: 150 psi
cy 3: 155 psi
cy 4: 150 psi
of course the reason why i did this was the timing belt snapped on me about a month ago while idling at about 2k rpm in park and i just replaced the t-belt and the other belts.
i have two questions for you guys: would it be best if i pull the head and inspect it and if valves are burned etc. have it rebuild?? or avoid this route cause i have a feeling cy 1 piston rings are fried and mind as well consider the motor toast and look into swaping with another...any ideas.
edit: beater is an auto 93' accord with 169xxx and f22a6.
if your timing belt snapped, most likely you have some bent/broken valves. i'd check the valves before anything else. The good news is that replacement f22 motors are cheap from the junkyard...
Even though its probable that you bent or broke a valve, do the easy stuff first. I'd check valve lash on the cylinder with no compression. My friend "knew" he had a motor with bad rings, so he re-ringed a motor and cranked it up and it had the same problem. Adjusted the valves and it was perfect, except for all the oil it uses now, cause he used a ghetto bead honer on a drill, lol.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtnwkr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do a wet test first.. </TD></TR></TABLE> best bet to figgure out if it is the block or valves.
The best thing to do is bring the engine to #1 TDC and then put compressed air [50 psi or so] in thru the spark plug hole, then you can listen for air escaping out the intake or exhaust. Also while it is at #1 TDC you can pull the valve cover and see if one of the rocker arms has way too much clearance.
I doubt the rings in #1 cylinder are any worse than the rest of the engine, and 150 PSI is not to shoddy for those miles.
If it was my deal, I'd not hesitate for a second to pull the head and replace any bent valves, and retouch the valve seats with the cutter.
I doubt the rings in #1 cylinder are any worse than the rest of the engine, and 150 PSI is not to shoddy for those miles.
If it was my deal, I'd not hesitate for a second to pull the head and replace any bent valves, and retouch the valve seats with the cutter.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6_rick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do i check for valve lash on the cyclinder and for valve clearance?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Open up your service manual and go to the section that deals with VALVE ADJUSTMENT.
RTFM
Open up your service manual and go to the section that deals with VALVE ADJUSTMENT.
RTFM
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Shannons52
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Jul 14, 2003 07:25 PM




