I tested the coil between terminals A and B (0.6-0.8) mine reads 0.9 but its 50 degrees outside, book says 70 degrees. Would this cause the car to not start, should I replace?
Thanks

 

Just to make sure, you've checked for spark already and the lack thereof led you to the coil....(have to ask)...
Did you go through the whole process of checking the coil/power to the coil/ground/ignitor? Given that the value is soo low I'd take it to an autozone and have them test it with a low ohm meter.
When mine went bad I think it read 1.5ohms...

 

Does not have spark, I replaced the igniter 3 months ago along with rotor, cap, plugs and wires. I also tested coil between terminal A and tower and it was within spec.

Im not sure what your saying about coil/power to coil/ground/igniter?

 

Is there power to the coil (no power, no spark... could be main relay)and ground where it's supposed to be. There's a howto somewhere on checking everything...

edit:
coil testing: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1430824

 

Let me just weigh in by saying that the coils in our cars go out pretty often once the mileage eclipses the 120k mark. Buy a new one from Advance Auto for $75 and replace it. If it doesn't work, take it back. No harm, no foul.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me just weigh in by saying that the coils in our cars go out pretty often once the mileage eclipses the 120k mark. Buy a new one from Advance Auto for $75 and replace it. If it doesn't work, take it back. No harm, no foul.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some places are asses about returning electrical stuff but I completely agree with the coil being a very likely culprit. I'd just hate to see him buy another one just to figure out the coil didn't have power...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miahmouse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some places are asses about returning electrical stuff but I completely agree with the coil being a very likely culprit. I'd just hate to see him buy another one just to figure out the coil didn't have power... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Also true Just tossing my $.02 in there

 

Thanks for the link, I read it somewhat before I made the thread. I would normally just pay the $65 which advance just told me, but like miah said if it doens't fix it, they probably wont take it back.

The car has 226K on it, so the coil is more than likely the issue. I'll update after I buy a new one.
Thanks

 

new coil fixed the problem