peoples please keep an eye on this thread this is my first time so i know ill be posting up for help/what should i do? kind of stuff! ,name off gaskets i should change that arent too difficult too change out while im in there thanks!

Motor is a B16A, OUT of the CAR!(LOL... in my Room)

Here i go!

My sources are the following:

-Haynes manual
-JDMLyfeStyle.com Write up(printout)
And commen sense Duh....

 

I'd strongly suggest a manual or in depth how-to for this if it's your first time.


good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd strongly suggest a manual or in depth how-to for this if it's your first time.


good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you ar going to do this get the head gasket, valvecover gasket and the cam seals. If you have the tools, do the valve guide seals since you will have the head off.


Modified by instructor74 at 12:10 PM 12/20/2006

 

ive got all those^^^ you just mentioned that i am changing out! thanks for the info! AH HA valve cover is off!

 

the timing belt is the really only pain in the ***, make sure you're at TDC!!

 

QUICk? it says that oem head bolts are 12mm? but why are the ones on this unknown B16a 14mm? LMK ASAP! are there aftermarket head bolts?

 

Need a answer ASAP! and the head bolts are really hard too break them loose? anything i can try too make it easier to loosen em im still trying on head bolt #1 LMK ASAP

 

they can be tough... use some leverage. 2ft or 5ft breaker and it'll come loose

 

k thanks! and what about the top of my head studs being 14mm and not oem 12mm?

 

when they say the size of a bolt they mean the bolt (thread part) size not the head size.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Heretic:Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when they say the size of a bolt they mean the bolt (thread part) size not the head size.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -HONDA- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k thanks! and what about the top of my head studs being 14mm and not oem 12mm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are 12mm, I promise. The reason you think they are 14mm is because you probably arent using a 12 point socket. Make sure the socket you are using to get them off is a 12 point as opposed to looking like a star.

Good luck, mine were a bitch to get off. Took 1 guy and two people to hold the motor down....

 

You're changing the headgasket and all..I'm just thinking about head warpage due to mileage.

Are you sending the head out to be milled down?

 

whats the avarage price too get the head ported and polished? Clean out?or any thing thats done too the head? Prices please?

 

hard questions.. it really depends on where you live bro.

The point brought up about surfacing the head is a super idea if your mileage is high

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hard questions.. it really depends on where you live bro.

The point brought up about surfacing the head is a super idea if your mileage is high</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most def.

- It depends on the shop, usually it's cheap, but before you start worrying about 3 angle valve jobs and port and polishing - make sure you re-surface the head / hone the head, whatever the expletive you wanna call it.

If it's got like, over 100k on it it's going to be warped a bit...

May not be a lot - but it'll probably be warped. That should come first.

 

get the head off yet man?

 

up for an update

 

guess this guy died or something?

 

Regardless of the mileage/age etc. I'd still send the head to a machine shop to have it surfaced. Check the block for level also... It's easier to do it right the first time than to redo it several times.
I'd also do: Front main seal... rear main if the tranny is off. You'll need new intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. Seals/o-rings for all the sensors and such (vtec solenoid, temp sensor etc.)

If you plan on doing cams, nows the time to go for some new springs and retainers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -HONDA- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the avarage price too get the head ported and polished? Clean out?or any thing thats done too the head? Prices please?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think portflow charges $800 if you give them a clean dissasembled head. That was a few years ago so the prices may be different.

 

Head is off sorry took so long just had a blizzard here in CO, was out shoveling for 5hrs non stop! still coming down too , everything is off and i checked the head and block too see if they are leveled with one of those weird thing with a bubble in the LOL...dont know what its called and they came out ok!

 

on the head the intake valves are spotless??? and the exhaust are dirty as hell!, what can i do too clean them out!(the outside not in there).......LMK

 

use de-greaser or brake cleaner... something that will evaporate. the home-depot levelers won't cut it on checking the surfaces, just take it to your local auto center and get it resurfaced. It's less that $100 here and well worth it bro


snow sucks btw

 

I have never heard of using a level to spec a head. Most places use a steel strieght edge and feeler gauges to chech the spec. you might want to get the head checked at a shop