The goal of this poll is to give those who are in debate with themselves regarding keeping A/C and P/S some sort of advice. This is mainly since both of these items work VERY well for people in this position. Alot of people veer away from forced induction since it pressures its victims to take drastic measures. On cars such as DA integras and EF civics, the a/c and p/s are VERY rarely retained when going the turbo route.

Now to vote, which of the following options would you recommend to someone who wants to install a turbo system, but wants to retain both the a/c and the p/s?


Modified by integrawow at 11:16 PM 12/13/2006

 

my buddy has a DA with ac and ps and its t3/t4 and yes he has a HUGE front mount

 

Yea, SMIC absolutely suck. I would never recommend one. I know people with DA's and EF's that have kept there AC and PS. Sometimes you cant run a full 3" DP but oh well. Run a 2.5" DP and keep the front mount.

 

idk what kind of power you're shooting for, but there's a good chance an SMIC isn't going to work very well....

 

there are ac relocation kits. if you can't use power steering...oh well

 

I don't think the issues with AC and PS are assosciated to using an FMIC or SMIC. An FMIC doesn't really get into the way at all unless you are running a backdoor setup or a really thick core...

You are more limited to manifold style, turbo selection and downpipe size. You can keep AC and PS and still keep a full size radiator by running an Inline Pro manifold, or actually just bolt up a Edelbrock turbo kit so you can have you cake and eat it too...lol

 

i havent seen anything about A/C relocation kits.....any idea where to find one. i'm having this dilemma....but i might just scrap the AC and PS and go all out

 

when i bought my topmount, i ditched AC and PS......


You have windows for a reason and as for the loss of PS, maybe you'll build some muscles.....at least that's what i'm hoping for

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony the Tiger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think the issues with AC and PS are assosciated to using an FMIC or SMIC. An FMIC doesn't really get into the way at all unless you are running a backdoor setup or a really thick core...

You are more limited to manifold style, turbo selection and downpipe size. You can keep AC and PS and still keep a full size radiator by running an Inline Pro manifold, or actually just bolt up a Edelbrock turbo kit so you can have you cake and eat it too...lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly. mainly it's the style of manifold which determines whether or not you can keep AC and PS.

log styles usually let you keep both, which is what i opted to get. hermsfab.com

 

log mini and a JRC here... I have both A/C and PS.

I don't get the bling-bling status, but it works.

 

What does JRC stand for?

By the way, what my goal is, is to be able to drive 75 miles a day, and not have cooling issues. Let's face it, the radiator is already barricaded by the a/c condensor, then were gonna put an FMIC in front of that. Come on, please. What's even worse than that is when people do this, but have a half size radiator. Talk about crappy cooling. I know that there are people out there who claim to have great cooling with a setup similar to what I just described, but look at the big picture, there's a chance that your *** could be walking if the radiator gets even the slightest little pebble of blockage in it. Walking or bumming a ride sucks, TRUST ME!

Which would people rather have, an overheating engine or an intercooler that lags behind the FMIC at the most of 30 degrees? Big whoopty ding dong! A high flow FAL style fan with a removed headlight for direct flow across the SMIC should get you within 30 degrees of an FMIC. Then you could use a fuel cooler, which could get you even closer to an FMIC. There is a difference, but I don't think the difference is worth f##king up the luxury or convenience of a car.

 

the half-rads are actually more effective at cooling since they're made of aluminum which conducts/radiates heat better than plastic. also, my half-rad is at LEAST twice as thick as my OEM rad, also giving better cooling.

 

JRC is a brand of some sort. Acronym for Johnny Race Car, aka Tyrus, and bunch others. They are lower cost (not lower quality, atleast IMO) FMIC... The one I have is 2 or 3 inch deep about 30 inch wide... Fitting nicely in the fuschia of my bummer cover (integra)... I think it's not to bad of a deal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGunit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i havent seen anything about A/C relocation kits.....any idea where to find one. i'm having this dilemma....but i might just scrap the AC and PS and go all out </TD></TR></TABLE>

there is a guy on h-t that makes them. is avatar is ronald mcdonald. i forgot his name. maybe i can find it.

 

^^Muckman?

 

yup thats him

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esedulerp5tenin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the half-rads are actually more effective at cooling since they're made of aluminum which conducts/radiates heat better than plastic. also, my half-rad is at LEAST twice as thick as my OEM rad, also giving better cooling.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep its a bitch trying to get my car to operating temp especially on a cold night here.
Mishimoto rad is very nice with a 12" pusher fan. I have a mugen thermostat and switch but afraid to install for too low a temp.
I will once I go FI.
I made 6 passes on a dyno in a short time and my guage didn't budge.

 

is there a thread for the relocation kits? i've tried searching and can't turn anything up