1997 Civic HB with Y8 Swap

This would be my 3rd stock D-Series motor in the last 9 months.

Ok im only getting the sound only when the car has been sitting for the night. and it only makes audible to me soudns for only about 1/4 mile or so. So there really is no way for me to single out which cylinder it is coming from.

1. Should I replace all the rod bearings and then it should be fine? or is it too late already?

2. About how long will the job take(motor stays in car) to replace all the bearings?

3. Is it difficult to do it with the motor in?

Thanks

 

pull the plug wire off the plug, and the problem cylinder should quiet down with it disconnected. There's no power stroke causing the crank to pound on the bearing, making the noise.

If you catch it early enough, you may get away with just bearings..but you may need a new crank, depending on condition. You sure it isn't piston slap either? What weight oil you running?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pull the plug wire off the plug, and the problem cylinder should quiet down with it disconnected. There's no power stroke causing the crank to pound on the bearing, making the noise.

If you catch it early enough, you may get away with just bearings..but you may need a new crank, depending on condition. You sure it isn't piston slap either? What grade oil you running?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That wont really work since its only present for about 30 seconds or so. If that. And if i start my car and sit for about 30 seconds then start to drive there is nothing. This method worked great on my last one. I drove on 3 Cylinders for 3 weeks and a total of 2k miles

I'm using 5W30 conventional.

 

Are you sure the noise isnt coming from the head?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pumpkyn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That wont really work since its only present for about 30 seconds or so. If that. And if i start my car and sit for about 30 seconds then start to drive there is nothing. This method worked great on my last one. I drove on 3 Cylinders for 3 weeks and a total of 2k miles

I'm using 5W30 conventional. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well then do it within the first 30 seconds

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dunkd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure the noise isnt coming from the head?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do have valve ticking that i just cant get rid of, even after doing valve lash adjustments every 2 weeks. and it only makes the sound really when i let off the gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well then do it within the first 30 seconds
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It really only makes the sound right when it starts and only when i drive it. Ive popped the hood and op teh TB and nothing

 

bump

 

could be piston slap when engine is bone cold , but its not like Z6's are known for developing piston slap. pretty rare thing in that engine from my experience. alot of people mistake there fuel injectors for valve tick as well in D series engines or so ive seen a few times anyways. not hard to put rod bearings in that at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cranny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could be piston slap when engine is bone cold , but its not like Z6's are known for developing piston slap. pretty rare thing in that engine from my experience. alot of people mistake there fuel injectors for valve tick as well in D series engines or so ive seen a few times anyways. not hard to put rod bearings in that at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thing that sucks is i wont be able to do bearings til sunday, I hate the cold. And i still have to put another 400 miles on my car til then.

 

take it easy on it thats all. drive as little as possible obviously. from my experience in hondas , if you develope knock from the rod bearings , theres no going away , you usually get a few more miles than POW. once they start knocking , you dont have long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cranny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take it easy on it thats all. drive as little as possible obviously. from my experience in hondas , if you develope knock from the rod bearings , theres no going away , you usually get a few more miles than POW. once they start knocking , you dont have long.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ever since i heard the "knocking" sound i havent gone above 4k

 

make sure you use oem color coded bearings also. i've used acl std size for mine and they gave out probally because the clearance wasn't perfect on it.

 

and be sure to get a new oil pump.
d16y8 are noctorious for not getting oil to the bearings and such. try a new oem honda, or a good aftermarket one...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by graveltravel2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and be sure to get a new oil pump.
d16y8 are noctorious for not getting oil to the bearings and such. try a new oem honda, or a good aftermarket one...</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, i forgot about ordering that

 

I think what caused my rod to spin is that my #1 Injector doesnt work as good when below 1700 RPM.

 

explain how this owuld cause a rod to spin

also what exactly is piston slap and how does it develope