just got my car aligned with my eibach sportlines and konigs and the guy at the shop said i needed a rear camber kit, was woundering if anyone had tried Megan Racing's rear kit, cause they seem like a good deal, $60 cheaper than Skunk2, any help?

 

For the rear, whats wrong with longer bolts and washers? Or are you trying to get even more negative camber?

 

trying to avoid premature tire wear, just put my heliums on with my sportlines and the alignment shop said that it wouldnt be too long before i needed new tires unless i get a rear kit, so i'm going with omni, seems every where i look there someone talking nothing but good things about them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicskata &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">trying to avoid premature tire wear, just put my heliums on with my sportlines and the alignment shop said that it wouldnt be too long before i needed new tires unless i get a rear kit, so i'm going with omni, seems every where i look there someone talking nothing but good things about them</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha get your car out of that shop and don't go back there ever again. What causes premature tire wear while running camber (more than stock) is the TOE, not the camber itself. IF your TOE is zero, then you can run lots of camber without worrying about uneven tire wear.

IF you are in disbelief, wait till others chime in. The popular belief of camber causing tire wear is older than baby jesus. Maybe that was what people thought in the 80s, but now it's 06 we know about suspension

I was lowered 2" for 1 full year and I had no uneven wear, how can you explain that? How can the alignment guy explain that?

 

dont know what to tell ya jmoney, but the guy said that he ajusted the toe as best he could, front came out fine, but the back was way off, i also have drove for over 3 years with my car from either 2"+ to about 1.5" and the tires seemed fine, they've always tilted in at the top but havnt had premature tire wear that i've seen, but since i got my wider tires on its a lot more noticable, so would rather be safe than sorry

 

You don't need to correct the camber. Just make sure your toe is set to 0. Camber does cause uneven tire wear, but it will not happen very quickly and will be barely visible.

 

Yes, toe is way more important than camber. I drove for several years with -2 deg. camber in back with no camber kit, and only got a SLIGHT amount of wear on the inside edge of my tires.

If the guy said he couldn't get your toe to zero out in the rear, then you have other problems, like bent suspension components.

 

yeah i'm sure its not bent components, but the guy said it would take a bout 2000 miles before the tires started gettin bad, dont know how reliable that is, but u can tell the back tires dont sit flat like the front, my cousin works there so i know they're not trying to rob me, plus thier gona give me a free 4wheel alignment when i get the camber kit in

 

I would get adjustable toe-control links before I got adjustable rear upper arms. Get that toe straight, and leave the camber where it's at.

If they still say it's going to eat up the tires, they're full of it (seriously, doesn't matter if your cousin works there).

 

They won't sit flat, but they won't wear out very quickly like they look like they would as long as you have your toe set to 0. If you really want your tires to sit flat then go ahead and get a camber kit. We are just saying that it's not necessary.

 

thanx guys, i actially ordered my camber kit lastnight from omnipower, thinkin it was NEEDED, but with my luck if i didnt get it somethin wierd would happen, but then again it isnt over yet....

 

i dont understand this...i have my wheels tucked and my toe is zeroed out...but yet i have tons of wear on the inside of my tires...to the point where its almost not worth it being so low...what could cause this if its not the camber? (like you all are saying)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alacard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont understand this...i have my wheels tucked and my toe is zeroed out...but yet i have tons of wear on the inside of my tires...to the point where its almost not worth it being so low...what could cause this if its not the camber? (like you all are saying)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Interesting question, and unfortunately one I am not qualified to answer.

I can say, that I have been driving my daily driver Integra for 6 months with -4.0* front camber, and have not seen any signs of premature tire wear. In fact, since I just bought a tread depth gauge, I still have 10/32s of tread left for inner and outer shoulders with only 9/32s in the center (underinflated maybe?).

If you want a longer term reference, my weekend car has -4.75* rear camber, and I am not worried about tire wear. Here's what I just posted in another camber thread:

My weekend car has run -4.75* rear camber since I bought it. I killed the first set of tires in 6 months. Did an alignment and fixed the insane rear toe it was suffering from (old sagging spring gave an additional degree of camber, but a ton of toe out) by removing the toe shims and left the camber. I've had the current set of tires for 8 years and 14k miles now, and they do not show any signs of "camber wear". Tire tread gauge shows nearly even wear across the entire tire, with a little more wear on the outside shoulder (I'd love an explanation for this) and 75% of the tread left.

Once you driven a car with nearly 5 degrees of negative camber, and everyone in the world has asked you "Wow, how much did you have to lower the car to get the insane camber?" and you still don't see any unusual tire wear, you start to wonder how much "camber wear" is really toe wear.

 

individual toe per wheel has to be 0.

It cannot just be 0 cross-toe overall toe/total toe because one of the wheels can still be off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">individual toe per wheel has to be 0.

It cannot just be 0 cross-toe overall toe/total toe because one of the wheels can still be off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah more specifically, the thrust angle needs to be as close 0.00 as humanly possible.