Rear Shim Kit vs. Rear Camber arms
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Rear Shim Kit vs. Rear Camber arms
whats up ya'll? i just recently bought the omni power front camber kit and the rear shim kit for my 99 civic coupe on h&r race springs. I was wondering if purchasing the rear camber arms were necessary or will the rear shim kit do the trick. i plan on taking it out on a 8 hour trip so i want to know if it will also hold up. Any answers will be greatly appreciated!
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Re: Rear Shim Kit vs. Rear Camber arms (ek forever guy)
i like what i'm hearing i really didn't want to drop 100 dollars on the rear arms i need to buy new tires thanks to camber! one tire is already showing belts!!!
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Re: Rear Shim Kit vs. Rear Camber arms (funkdocivic)
I used 3 I think when I corrected mine, 3 on each bolt of the upper arm. So 6 on each side.
You can adjust it how you like depending on how much camber you like.
You can adjust it how you like depending on how much camber you like.
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#11
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i usually only use 2 per bolt, but it all depends on how dumped you are, if you have 2.0-2.5" of drop usually 2 per bolt gets you into factory specs (i think the limit is -1.2 degrees). once the camber is in factory specs toe can be adjusted into specs and tire wear will be minimum at best.
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Re: (schardbody)
Watch out for that rear trailing arm bolt seizing up on you if you replace the camber arm. A 10 minute project can easily turn into a 2 day project. Honda rear suspension bolts suck!
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Re: (EGJason)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGJason »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Watch out for that rear trailing arm bolt seizing up on you if you replace the camber arm. A 10 minute project can easily turn into a 2 day project. Honda rear suspension bolts suck!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Salted roads FTL
Salted roads FTL
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Re: (funkdocivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by funkdocivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im lost here what do you mean by seizing up on me??</TD></TR></TABLE>
UCA bolts getting oxidated and therefore seizing.
Translation: Pain in the *** to get off, you'll need tom pb plaster and maybe an impact driver.
UCA bolts getting oxidated and therefore seizing.
Translation: Pain in the *** to get off, you'll need tom pb plaster and maybe an impact driver.
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Re: (schardbody)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i usually only use 2 per bolt, but it all depends on how dumped you are, if you have 2.0-2.5" of drop usually 2 per bolt gets you into factory specs (i think the limit is -1.2 degrees). once the camber is in factory specs toe can be adjusted into specs and tire wear will be minimum at best.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man i'll try it out
thanks man i'll try it out
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