vibration at low speed
My 95civic ex automatic vibrates momentarily at low speeds around 15mph. It lasts about 5-10sec. It just happen lately about 3 times and on 2 occasions after a right turn and car already traveling on a straight line, and of course brakes applied to slow down or stop to make the turn. It is more of a shudder and similar to the speed of a jackhammer vibs. No recent maintenance done on suspension, transmission or wheels.
Thanks in advance for any input/s.
Thanks in advance for any input/s.
could either be the tie-rod ends or your cv joints. does it stop once you reach a certain speed?
you can also try getting everything laser aligned for the tracking etc.
i had a similar problem, and it took me about 20 minutes to change the tie-rod end.... problem solved
you can also try getting everything laser aligned for the tracking etc.
i had a similar problem, and it took me about 20 minutes to change the tie-rod end.... problem solved
The wife bolted to work this morning with the car so I would check it as soon as it arrives. Anyways, about a year ago the propeller shafts(both) were replaced due to damaged CV boots(shaft is just $30 more compared to a split CV boot - could you belive that!) so I'm confident that CV joint is ok but the idler arm/tie rods were not inspected lately. Also, Im researching on tranny vibration - and reminded me that a friend of mine replaced the radiator for me while I was gone and hopefully he replaced the transmission fluid in the cooler. Could lack of oil in the tranny cause the vibration?
To elaborate on the vibration - it is like running on rumble strips installed on major roads. and yes the vibs goes away above 30 MPH.
To elaborate on the vibration - it is like running on rumble strips installed on major roads. and yes the vibs goes away above 30 MPH.
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I just inspected the underside and I can't find anything obvious. Jack up the front end, cycled the wheels left to right: everything smooth nothing loose tie rods seems steady; bushing looks ok; idler arm steady and bushing ok; All fasteners locked and tight; brake rotor firm when shooked, pulled,pushed; single clunk noise when rotor turned forward-normal CV joint noise(I think its normal) 1/4" play; propeller shaft pulled, pushed with about 1/4" play( Normal I think); Engine mount inspected with passenger side lower mount dry rotting but intact (probable); Right Rear suspension trailing arm bushing torn (expensive and big job) but I believe would give me a clunking noise on bumps and take off from stop not vibration.
For now the I have test driven around the block 3x and did not get the vibs. I'll be looking for specs on all of the above to make sure my brief inspection and tests were done right.
Keep posting folks and please comment on my inspection results. Thx...
For now the I have test driven around the block 3x and did not get the vibs. I'll be looking for specs on all of the above to make sure my brief inspection and tests were done right.
Keep posting folks and please comment on my inspection results. Thx...
i believe that every1 at some point in time had a similar problem. could really be many different problems. if no1 else could help i would deff check the drive axle NUT. make sure its tightened down ummm id say 400ft pounds look it up in the book cause im not too sure. i used a breaker bar with a gas line pipe on the end. works well. just found this site again after a year of not using it. got great help from everyone on my swap. wheel bearing could also be the problem if no visual problems found. take the drive axle out of the spindle use your fingers to spin the bearing around. if there are any bumps u feel, it should be replaced. any certain side it seems to be coming from? why do you think its the tranny? does this vibration hit right b4 or after the change of gears? real hard to help when i cant even see it myself. GL
Thanks for the input. I'm checking everything that everyone has suggested. For now I just did a quick visual and did not break anything apart yet except for all brakes inspection. Just test drive again for troubleshooting a shitty idle, and no vibs showed up yet. My plan this weekend is to check with the tech manual all tolerance on suspension, CV joint, tie rods and lastly the axle.
Tie rod looks OK. This vibs problem is taking a back seat for now until I fix my idle problem.
The car died and can't restart it after I used carb cleaner to find vacuum leak that might be causing my LOW idle that dies at stop light. Identified bad FITV cleaned and adjusted all the way down, it is leaking by and air still felt goin in the lower port of TB. I was able to start it and spray s_ _ _load of carb cleaner and it died.
So, I'll update my post after this idle issue.
Thx folks.
The car died and can't restart it after I used carb cleaner to find vacuum leak that might be causing my LOW idle that dies at stop light. Identified bad FITV cleaned and adjusted all the way down, it is leaking by and air still felt goin in the lower port of TB. I was able to start it and spray s_ _ _load of carb cleaner and it died.
So, I'll update my post after this idle issue.
Thx folks.
I thought it has something to do with tranny because it happens when its about to shift but when it happened again its mostly during acceleration. This might have been compounded with engine idle problem I'm experiencing. It might be related to some degree so I will concentrate on this for now. Looks like EACV problem. Again thanks for the input and I promise to update this every now and then until its resolved.
Cause found! Today the car lost power and stalled. TRANSMISSION slips on 2nd gear and up. Cause of vibration was a slipping (automatic) clutch which just became apparent when it finally gave up and would not engage to higher gear.
I did not expect that transmission problem would be intermittent like it did. I assumed that when it start to go I would notice a soft engage from stop either forward or reverse and would show some hesitation when given some gas. I also assumed that my friend gave the system a flush when the radiator was replaced (oil sludge discovered when plug was removed). Now its showing those symptoms. I have no idea how to fix this and I believe its too expensive to try and bring this car back to life. It's time to give it a REST.
I have my eyes on honda FIT.
Hope this would help someone avoid this problem.
I did not expect that transmission problem would be intermittent like it did. I assumed that when it start to go I would notice a soft engage from stop either forward or reverse and would show some hesitation when given some gas. I also assumed that my friend gave the system a flush when the radiator was replaced (oil sludge discovered when plug was removed). Now its showing those symptoms. I have no idea how to fix this and I believe its too expensive to try and bring this car back to life. It's time to give it a REST.
I have my eyes on honda FIT.
Hope this would help someone avoid this problem.
Thanks for updating us on the problem. Too many of these threads never get a resolution post, so people who find the thread by searching in the future will never know the cause or resolution of the problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tarikan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have no idea how to fix this and I believe its too expensive to try and bring this car back to life.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The car needs a transmission swap. Whether it is worth fixing or not depends on the cost and availability of good used automatic transmissions there in Hawaii, and the labor cost of replacement if you are not up to doing the task yourself.
Good luck with whatever route you choose to take.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tarikan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have no idea how to fix this and I believe its too expensive to try and bring this car back to life.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The car needs a transmission swap. Whether it is worth fixing or not depends on the cost and availability of good used automatic transmissions there in Hawaii, and the labor cost of replacement if you are not up to doing the task yourself.
Good luck with whatever route you choose to take.
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