I ordered a used manual turbo xs boost controller off of ebay, and it arrived broken, it looks fine cosmetically on the outside but when installed, it does not work i tried switching directions and everything, but the only thing it does is not let my wastegate open no matter what i do, is there any way to fix this.

 

nope. those controllers have a diaphram inside. when they lock they are useless. those are only adjustable a few times before they sieze

 

no, they dont have a diaphram and you can probably adjust one over 100,000 times before wearing it out.

You can just take them apart and clean it, if it's gunked up or stuck or something. They are very simple.

There are 2 kinds; the high performance has a bleeder screw on the top and a ball and spring on the side and the regular only has the bleeder. Disregard anything about the spring if you just have the bleeder type.

If you have the HP just unscrew the top screw all the way and then unscrew the long brass thing on the side (thake the whole thing out of the blue part-14mm fits i think) and be careful because there is a spring and a steel ball inside that will fall out. Also retain the white washer that came off. You can also take off the 2 vac ports if you want but it's not usually needed.

After it's all apart, just spray it down or soak it with some brake clean or any type of solvent, like mineral spirits or even gas. A pipe cleaner may be needed if there is gummy **** inside. otherwise dry it out with compressed air if you can. Then spray the inside lightly with WD40 and start putting the parts back on how they were. Do not tighten the brass part too far and If you have some, put some silicon sealant on the threads of this part only.

To set it up to run very low boost you need to turn the top screw all the way to the - side and then back 1 turn or so. Then on the spring side you need to loosen it until you hear it rattle when you shake it, then tighten 1/2 turn and you are good to go and it should run really close to your wastegate spring.

 

if you want a good, reliable , manual boost controller check out HALLMAN boost controllers ( made in canton, ohio) or the turbonetics manual controllers

 

i was a turbo xs dealer for a few years.... those boost controllers always fail

 

oh and the diaphram i was reffering to was the gasket on the bleeder. sorry. poorly worded

 

that's an O-ring. I agree the Halman ones are very good too, but I have installed over 100 TXS ones with no problems. I ran one for 4 years myself and have run lots of 500whp cars off them problem free. Not once had an o-ring problem, its not a part that ever moves except when you adjust it so it just doesnt wear out. Maybe the ones you dealt with were getting too hot and drying out the rubber? The only problems i see with them is that the reverse threads confuse some people...for a few seconds.

 

ive sold them for years and honestly had nothing but problems.... ive seriously had close to a 70% return rate. im not questioning your claim that they've been great for you, merely stating that i've had very few satisfied customers with them.

 

that's so odd. I'm really curious what was happening because it is so opposite of my experiance with them. Were many of your problem ones on DSMs?

 

lol yea. dsms and turbo mazdas mostly. my shop is in canton ohio, which is the DSM capital of the world ( john shepherd, dave buschur, slick motorsports and Tym Switzer are all within a 30-40 min drive) most problems occured above 15 psi. thats when i started switching over to the turbonetics peice. its about the same price and it works like a champ. hbc ( hallman boost controllers) is also a local company, so we carry those in house too. people seem to like those as well

as far as TXS goes.. im using their HP-DSBC on my turbo civic. i like that controller, but i've yet to adjust it since the last tune

 

I figured since you said Halman. Were you selling the regular bleeder ones or the HPmbc? I have run the HP on lots of setups running 15-30psi and the boost logs were often a horizontal line on the dyno. I dont know man, maybe you have really picky customers or something, which can be a good thing.

 

How easy/difficult is it to replace the o-ring? And you think just pulling it out and matching it to an O-ring at a local parts store will do the trick?

I have a used Dual Stage that leaks and only allows adjustment up to about 10psi...no higher

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's an O-ring. I agree the Halman ones are very good too, but I have installed over 100 TXS ones with no problems. I ran one for 4 years myself and have run lots of 500whp cars off them problem free. Not once had an o-ring problem, its not a part that ever moves except when you adjust it so it just doesnt wear out. Maybe the ones you dealt with were getting too hot and drying out the rubber? The only problems i see with them is that the reverse threads confuse some people...for a few seconds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedB16EJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol yea. dsms and turbo mazdas mostly. my shop is in canton ohio, which is the DSM capital of the world ( john shepherd, dave buschur, slick motorsports and Tym Switzer are all within a 30-40 min drive) most problems occured above 15 psi. thats when i started switching over to the turbonetics peice. its about the same price and it works like a champ. hbc ( hallman boost controllers) is also a local company, so we carry those in house too. people seem to like those as well

as far as TXS goes.. im using their HP-DSBC on my turbo civic. i like that controller, but i've yet to adjust it since the last tune</TD></TR></TABLE>

What shop do you own??? we're local if you didnt notice

 

I actually had the same problem with my turboxs MBC. I bought mine new but could never get it to work right (it was the basic bleeder valve type).

No matter how I adjusted it the boost would just shoot up and the wastegate wouldn't open.

So I ended up boring out one of the holes a little bit. I think it was on the inlet side, it came with a really small pinhole, which I just bored out a hair. Then it worked better but I still had problems with it, so I sold it and got a turbosmart.

 

i manage autosport plus in canton.

before that i managed horizon motorsports ( also in canton)

 

well it's obvious that TXS was shipping me the good ones and you guys the shitty ones

I'm not sure if the o-ring is a standard size and shape, never had to fix one.

 

maybe anna was sabotaging me

 

I think you're right.

Well, i feel like im taking crazy pills here.