seems like its not possible, the last thing i have left to remove is the right radius rod and then it SHOULD slide on out. ill be doing this saturday morning, just looking for any tips before i tackle it.

 

Make sure you use something to support it. I used a rolling jack. As I slid the tranny away from the motor it was a smooth transition. Make sure you jack it up enough. If you have an extra pair of hands have them watch for the tranny if it leans forward or backword. Hope that helps good luck.

 

I skipped the radius rod. I just pulled it to the side and tranny just went under it (there's a tab which interferes the rod)

 

Removing the entire front subframe along with the radius rods makes the tranny much easier to R&R, but that requires that you remove the front engine mount, so supporting the engine is an absolute must. It only takes a few minutes, and you don't have to fight to R&R the tranny.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I skipped the radius rod. I just pulled it to the side and tranny just went under it (there's a tab which interferes the rod)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pull the radius rods... it makes it 3x easier.

 

definitely pull the radius rods....and it has always been my preference to just let the trans fall onto my chest.....jacks are for pussies....lol

 

Radius rod is really simple to pull.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">definitely pull the radius rods....and it has always been my preference to just let the trans fall onto my chest.....jacks are for pussies....lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

is that like manlaw or something?

tranny jack ftw

and yes, definitely remove the radius rods. I had to remove one of the studs from the tranny that go to the mount to allow the tranny to slide off the main shaft and clear the chassis

 

thanks for all the tips

there is only one radius rod on the tranny side, right?

and as far as the entire front subframe, what exactly does that include? i didnt get to it this weekend, but this coming weekend ill definitely go at it.

thanks again guys

 

If you wanted to drop the front subframe, you would have the 7 bolts to drop the under-engine brace, the front motor mount, both radius rods, then the 6 bolts to drop the actual subframe....really not too bad....

Just BE SURE to either mark where the bolts are for the radius rods or only unbolt them from the control arm.....they influence your alignment, and if you just loosen them out of the subframe you will lose all adjustment....

yeah lets man law that
no tranny jacks, the proper way to drop a transmission is onto your stomach

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah lets man law that
no tranny jacks, the proper way to drop a transmission is onto your stomach

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats sto-mach in Borat language

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">definitely pull the radius rods....and it has always been my preference to just let the trans fall onto my chest.....jacks are for pussies....lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

&lt;---vividly remembers your face when the diff inched closer and closer to your lips....


But yea, taking out the radius rods is def a plus/its 100% worth it to take the time. Otherwise you just end up smashing into other 'ish and getting really reallllly realllly frustrated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just BE SURE to either mark where the bolts are for the radius rods or only unbolt them from the control arm.....they influence your alignment, and if you just loosen them out of the subframe you will lose all adjustment....</TD></TR></TABLE>
How are the radius rods adjustable from the factory (other than shims)?

 

I would remove the engine 10 times before i remove just the tranny. But then again when i removed the tranny it was by my self. I just find removing the eingine to be alot easier than removing just the tranny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_parker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Radius rod is really simple to pull.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, I have just broken one and bent another wrench on the front nut of the radius rod. This rod is a really sucker.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeBehavi0r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

&lt;---vividly remembers your face when the diff inched closer and closer to your lips....


But yea, taking out the radius rods is def a plus/its 100% worth it to take the time. Otherwise you just end up smashing into other 'ish and getting really reallllly realllly frustrated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol f you maacus....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How are the radius rods adjustable from the factory (other than shims)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

they're different on 4th gens than on 5th, the front bolts into the subframe, and the amount you tighten the nut on controls the caster....

I believe the 5th gens have multiple sets of radius arms at different lengths that can be ordered.....

 

sto mach. haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they're different on 4th gens than on 5th, the front bolts into the subframe, and the amount you tighten the nut on controls the caster....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't have my 4Gen Helms manual handy, but I thought the 4Gen and 5Gen base model radius rod assemblies were identical, no?

On a 5Gen, there is a shim, two bushings, spacer, and a nut. The nut is torqued to 40 ft*lbs. There is no caster adjustment other than adding/removing shims. The 4Gen is different? I'm not doubting you, I'm seriously asking. I haven't done much suspension work on 4Gens, so I've never noticed if they're different or not.

According to San Leandro Honda the diagram for the 4Gen front lower arm assembly is:


5Gen base:


Interestingly enough, the radius rods are different PNs, but the LCAs are the same PN. The shims are the same PN, but the spacers are not. So the radius rods are not the same, but neither appear to be adjustable.

If the 4Gen is adjustable, I'd like to see some pictures because I'd adapt this to my 5Gen spherical bearing setup so I could have adjustable caster!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe the 5th gens have multiple sets of radius arms at different lengths that can be ordered.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the SH, there are multiple radius rods available for different caster settings due to the attachment between the radius rod and front subframe. For the base, the radius rods are set up just like the 4Gen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol f you maacus....

they're different on 4th gens than on 5th, the front bolts into the subframe, and the amount you tighten the nut on controls the caster....

I believe the 5th gens have multiple sets of radius arms at different lengths that can be ordered.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not how tight you tighten the nut, u just put shims on the rod to move the caster around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not how tight you tighten the nut, u just put shims on the rod to move the caster around.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Darn, that's what I was thinking.

 

That seems fine to me, but since there is a rubber bushing behind there, it seems that any movement of that nut is going to adjust caster.

There is no way you could just tighten it down to the same spot every time, even though there is a set tq for that nut....rubber isn't exact enough to do that.....right??

and yes, i was thinking of the SH when I said that

 

The rubber is compliant enough that when you torque the nut, the washers hit the metal spacer (aka collar, as Honda calls it), so you are torquing the nut in the same place every time unless you change the spacer or add/remove a shim.

 

gotcha....thanks

 

makes sense now. I always thought wrenching down on the nut would adjust caster a little, but i guess its safe to say we can throw that out of the window now.