I noticed my gas mileage going down, but the engine seems to run nice and feels really strong. I hooked up a laptop to the AEM and my O2 AFR was reading 5-6. I about flipped out. I think my O2 sensor wizard messed up. My idle rpms fluctuate as well. There's a new wining sound that I hear when I first turn the key and when I disconnect the ignition that last for about a second. I hope my fuel relay is not going bad.



Here's pictures of spark plugs. These have been at idle for 10 minutes before being pulled.
Cylinder 1

Cylinder 1

Cylinder 2

Any ideas?

 

What kind of wideband are you using?The uego was notorious a while back for going through sensors quick?

 

First, learn how print screen works. Then post some clear pictures. What is selected when you open the O2 wizard? Go to View > Wizards > O2 #1

 

Listen to Muckman he knows his stuff

 

Yeah...I thought about that after leaving work. My laptop is at work. I'll get someother pics, definitely clearer than those (print screen) They suck...sorry. It's not reading a WB. It's reading the stock O2 sensor.

 

well the stock o2 sensor isnt going to output what a wideband is going to... maybe thats why?

 

did u let the laptop complete its download from the ECU during your initial connection between the 2? its takes about 30 seconds and youll see the red bar on the bottom of the screen get larger until it completes. Once connected it will display feedback based on how your personal program/map is setup.

If thats not the issue it seems as if you do not have a few of your sensors setup correctly. and if you have O2 feedback enabled with those type of readings youll definitely encounter some serious issues.

Go into some of your sensor wizards as muckman suggested and make sure they are correct

 

goto configure, units, afr units. make sure its on gasoline, if it already is, select something else, hit apply, then reselect gasoline.

now goto fuel o2 sensor feedback, check to see if its on. if your sensor is dead, which, when it dies, usually defaults to 14.7, the o2 feedback is dumpin fuel into the motor. and lookin at ur plugs, and if the sensor wasnt dead before, it probably is now by the way ur plugs look.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did u let the laptop complete its download from the ECU during your initial connection between the 2? its takes about 30 seconds and youll see the red bar on the bottom of the screen get larger until it completes. Once connected it will display feedback based on how your personal program/map is setup.

If thats not the issue it seems as if you do not have a few of your sensors setup correctly. and if you have O2 feedback enabled with those type of readings youll definitely encounter some serious issues.

Go into some of your sensor wizards as muckman suggested and make sure they are correct</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I let the data download into the laptop into the temp WORKMAN file. I spent about 10 minutes looking at everything in real-time to see what might have changed. I compared my file to an earlier file I saved and the only thing that changed was TPER.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wHOAlly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">goto configure, units, afr units. make sure its on gasoline, if it already is, select something else, hit apply, then reselect gasoline.

now goto fuel o2 sensor feedback, check to see if its on. if your sensor is dead, which, when it dies, usually defaults to 14.7, the o2 feedback is dumpin fuel into the motor. and lookin at ur plugs, and if the sensor wasnt dead before, it probably is now by the way ur plugs look.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think my sensor is dead. It was brand new back in June just before my emissions test. I fialed the first time because my O2 sensor failed and the car was very jittery. My car does not jitter now. The O2 feedback was on. The "target table" looks fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, learn how print screen works. Then post some clear pictures. What is selected when you open the O2 wizard? Go to View &gt; Wizards &gt; O2 #1</TD></TR></TABLE>
None of the sensors are selected under the wizard.
The car was tuned a year ago and the only thing I have since messed with is the idle. It used to die on me often while in slow traffic coming out of first gear into neutral.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaze the chemi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not reading a WB. It's reading the stock O2 sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaze the chemi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The O2 feedback was on. The "target table" looks fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
did I read this wrong or are you trying to use o2 feedback with a narrowband o2 sensor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

did I read this wrong or are you trying to use o2 feedback with a narrowband o2 sensor? </TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you think a stock ecu works?

Try selecting a stock O2 sensor from the wizard, or just turn the feedback off and tune the whole thing with a wideband.

 

The car was tuned with a wideband, of course. It runs with a conservative tune in vacuum to keep gas mileage high, and then switches over to the boost tune when in boost...I think that's how he tuned it. I'll post pics of the problems tonight. I reloaded a calibration file I saved months ago to the ECU and it seems to run smoother. Definitely starts better. I'll take it on a test drive around lunch to see and pull the plugs. I'll keep you all updated. Thanks too for all the ideas.

EDIT: After reloading the calibration file the O2 sensor was reading 13-12.5 while idleing instead of 6-5.

 

When I hooked the pc up to the AEM this morning this is what I got. It's different than the file from yesterday (see above blurry pic)
How's this Muckman



So I uploaded the file I saved back in July. This is the same screen only from the July file.

Why do you think the two files are so different? Recommend anything?

So I went on a test run. Boosted and vacuum. Felt good. So I pulled the plugs after the test drive.
Cylinder 1


Cylinder 2

All plugs were black on the rim, but a nice chocolate on the porcelin tip. I'm not sure what happened between the time I left my car with the body shop and picking it up.
Thanks guys for your ideas and input.

 

What wideband do you have? You need to contact your tuner

 

is it just me or do the plugs look a bit warm haah

 

both those cal tables are fucked up, just do what i said....trust me on this one....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wHOAlly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">goto configure, units, afr units. make sure its on gasoline, if it already is, select something else, hit apply, then reselect gasoline.

now goto fuel o2 sensor feedback, check to see if its on. if your sensor is dead, which, when it dies, usually defaults to 14.7, the o2 feedback is dumpin fuel into the motor. and lookin at ur plugs, and if the sensor wasnt dead before, it probably is now by the way ur plugs look.</TD></TR></TABLE>

also after u do what i said above, run the o2 sensor wizard for both. IE. if u have the aem uego gauge, reselect it in the wizard and make sure the check box is there and hit ok

 

Whoa! screen shots! lol

Those O2 sensor cal tables are whacked. Just go into the O2 sensor wizard and select your wideband unit (AEM or whatever) and hit ok, it would correct those tables.

Edit: yeah what he said ^

 

He said he is using a oem O2 sensor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siblues &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He said he is using a oem O2 sensor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

AEM EMS ONLY uses widebands, ur narrowband sensors dont do **** or even work

 

I understand that but he said in his second or third post in this thread that is was oem and he wasnt using a wb?I am not trying to start any fights just trying to clear it up so he can get some help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vaporboy12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it just me or do the plugs look a bit warm haah</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's the flash. They look good to me, plus they were at idle too for a bit before I turned the ignition off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wHOAlly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
AEM EMS ONLY uses widebands, ur narrowband sensors dont do **** or even work</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then why was the car running like **** last May when my narrowband had failed? The AEM does read the voltage from the sensor. When I switched over to the stock ECU and plugged up my greddy blue box the first code I got was primary oxygen sensor CEL.

The car has been tuned by two very reputable tuners here in the Atlanta area with a total time of tuning around 5 hours. The car has been driven on the new bottom end for close to 11K, boosted and all, and DD since June.

I will at least call up the last tuner and ask him what he thinks. The tuner that broke the motor in on the dyno was the same tuner used in this thread. We stopped because of an unknown ignition issue. https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whoa! screen shots! lol

Those O2 sensor cal tables are whacked. Just go into the O2 sensor wizard and select your wideband unit (AEM or whatever) and hit ok, it would correct those tables.

Edit: yeah what he said ^</TD></TR></TABLE>
So what do you recommend if I don't have a WB? Maybe I'll ask one for Christmas.

 

just turn off o2 feedback and drive it. by having o2 feedback on, the ecu is attempting to adjust fuel accordingly, and with having the wrong o2 values, its killing your fuel. just disable o2 feedback and don't worry aobut it. Since it was fully tuned before, it should run jsut fine without a wideband

 

Ok Im sorry I missed the fact about the stock narrowband O2 sensor. Just turn off O2 feedback and ignore any AFR readings. Its all garbage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok Im sorry I missed the fact about the stock narrowband O2 sensor. Just turn off O2 feedback and ignore any AFR readings. Its all garbage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So in simple terms:

Since my car was tuned on a wideband and the ignition and fuel tables were tuned to a wideband, then the AEM uses those values to make the engine run good at the indicated load values. Yes?