My question is kinda newb, but if anyone knows let me know, i was wondering if i go on a full stop at a stop light but i choose to stay in 1st gear with the clutch obviously held all the way down, is that bad for the clutch or any part of the car in anyway ? or you guys do it too ?

 

I've been told this causes additional wear on your throw-out bearing. Whether it's significant or not, no idea.

 

Nope, I hold my clutch in all the time and I've never had an issue. True, it does put a little more stress on the throwout bearing, but I've never had one go out.....probably because they generally last 90k+ and I either replace my clutch/TO bearing before then and/or sell the car first.

 

as for downshift i belive safest way is rev matching, is this true, that while im down shifting gas it a bit to match the rpm to the following gear im down shifting ? Is down shifting bad for the motor cuz im really addicted to this :-D

 

Downshifting is just fine...well until you downshift into 2nd at 90mph. Rev matching will make it smoother, but to make any difference on syncro wear you have to "double clutch"

 

"double clutch" is rev match right ?

 

oh nvm i just found out double clutching, what if i hold the clutch down during the hole process of rev matching it ?

 

I thought double clutching is for big rigs, but what the hell do I know. And as long as you match the revs their should theoretically be no significant amount of wear being put on the synchros.

 

just thought about this, this is how i down shift

I hold down the clutch, while holding it i throttle the car, and while its being throttled and clutch being held down i go to third, then i let go of the clutch and continue driving, but i hear that, what i do wears the clutch down, the correct way I hear is

Hold clutch down, go to N, rev match, hold clutch down, go to third, let go of clutch.

What i wanna know is the way i do it is it running through my clutch ? and affecting the clutch

 

It's my understanding that holding the clutch down at a stop light in first does add additional wear to the throwout bearing, as stated above.

As far as downshifting goes, when I'm headed to a redlight, I put it in neutral and coast with a bit of brake.

My thinking is, what costs more to replace? Brake pads? or a clutch?

 

we'll i just like the whole down shifting thats why im tryin to find out the correct way to do so, I wanna know if the way im doing is it actaully really wrong or ?...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to make any difference on syncro wear you have to "double clutch"</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought double clutching is for big rigs, but what the hell do I know. And as long as you match the revs their should theoretically be no significant amount of wear being put on the synchros. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The double clutching that needs to be done on old big rig gear boxes are because they don't have synchronizers, hence double clutching will make it so you don't wear the snchros when shifting.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Extreez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just thought about this, this is how i down shift

I hold down the clutch, while holding it i throttle the car, and while its being throttled and clutch being held down i go to third, then i let go of the clutch and continue driving, but i hear that, what i do wears the clutch down, the correct way I hear is

Hold clutch down, go to N, rev match, hold clutch down, go to third, let go of clutch.

What i wanna know is the way i do it is it running through my clutch ? and affecting the clutch</TD></TR></TABLE>

The two methods you have just explained look like the same method, so I don't know what you're getting at.

The way to do it with the least amount of wear (to the synchros) is this way:

Press clutch, gear-&gt;neutral, release clutch, press clutch, neutral-&gt;gear, release clutch. You can throw in a tap of the gas pedal to rev match when you're in the process of going to the next lower gear. Now if your good, try rev matching all while pressing on the brake.

First time I double clutched it felt awkward (like a mad man that keeps stomping his foot on the ground) and was rather tricky to get into a new habit. Now i double clutch faster than most people i know who shift regular.

The whole reason why I down shift is because I like to alway be in gear when i'm driving, i don't feel in control of the car when it's in neutral. But that's just me, and as long as one down shifts conservatively (like when the rpm drop to 2k and not just doing it to let everyone hear your motor rev), then the wear isn't too significant, at least in my case.

PS: the one thing that shouldn't be done that causes high wear on the synchro is going from 2nd to 5th (skipping gears).

 

oh well the way i do it is i be holding the clutch down the hole time, i throttle the car a bit while im holding the clutch then go in lets say 3rd and let go of the clutch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought double clutching is for big rigs, but what the hell do I know. And as long as you match the revs their should theoretically be no significant amount of wear being put on the synchros. </TD></TR></TABLE>


It is for big rigs and other syncro-less cars/trucks....but its a requirement for them. If you dont let the clutch out in neutral, then the input shaft is still moving at the "wrong" speed and therefore your syncro has to speed up the shaft to the proper speed....if you let the clutch out, then spin the engine/input shaft up, then the shaft speeds are already where they are suppose to be and the syncro does not have to do any work. It wont make a difference either way.....just stating whats really going on in the transmission.

As far as the rev-matching (meaning you just hold the clutch in but match the engine speed to the transmission speed), it will save the clutch because the clutch doesnt have to "spin" the engine up. However, the amount of force it takes to speed the engine up from 750rpms to say 4500rpms compared to the force it takes to get a car rolling will make you soon realize that rev-matching or not makes no difference on clutch life. If you've ever seen a clutch, you realize the clutch disc doesnt have that much material on it to start with and considering they can last over 90,000 miles, it makes no difference in the long run of things.

On a personal note, I drive my car without rev-matching or double clutching and I've never had a clutch wear out or had syncros go bad..... Alot of information and jibberish.....drive your car the way that feels natural and you should have no problems.

 

thanks alot guys for the help :-D hopefully next one wit this question finds this topic, VERY detailful

 

I do no see how it could be benificial to let the revs drop when you put it in neutral as stated above. What i do when i down shift is push in clutch, put in next lowest gear, tap gas and release. I have found this to be very smoth and the engines rpms never drop because of the speed in which it is done, hence practice makes perfect, and you do not have any stress on the clutch from having to raise the engines rpms. And I know you guys know what your talking about and I get what your saying but as long as you match the engines rpm range that it would be in when you shift to the next lowest gear you are releiving the stress normally put on the syncro from not rev matching.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And I know you guys know what your talking about and I get what your saying but as long as you match the engines rpm range that it would be in when you shift to the next lowest gear you are releiving the stress normally put on the syncro from not rev matching.</TD></TR></TABLE>


In that scenario, by the time you let the clutch out, the syncro has already done its job and had stress put on it before you rev the engine up. Basically as long as the clutch is push in (car is in "neutral" so to speak), engine RPM will not effect the transmission (the clutch is disengaged, thus the transmission is free of the engine). Therefore you can shift from 2nd to 3rd or 5th to 3rd and as long as the clutch is pushed in, only the syncro is there to match the input and counter shaft speeds. Now rev-matching will match engine speed to input shaft speed after the input shaft speed has been modified by the syncro and make for a smoother clutch engagement....but wont make a difference on the syncros.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Extreez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My question is kinda newb, but if anyone knows let me know, i was wondering if i go on a full stop at a stop light but i choose to stay in 1st gear with the clutch obviously held all the way down, is that bad for the clutch or any part of the car in anyway ? or you guys do it too ?</TD></TR></TABLE>why dont u just put it in neutral........then when light turns green put in first and go.