i have a b16t with a t3/t04e snail. i have no type of pcv set up, its the same set-up as it came from the fac.
I also did a comp. test and everything is fine in the cylinders, And for some reason my car is smoking only on deceleration and not so much on acceleration.
Ive blown these seals before so im gussing thats what it is AGAIN
Oh and theres no restriction in the oil return line

PLEASE HELP!! All suggestions are needed thanxs

 

any pics of your oil return line setup? i just want to see how you routed it

 

i can barely type let alone put a pic on the web,
but it goes from the turbo to the pan like it should,and the fitting is at the highest point of the pan

 

Could it be your valve stem seals?

Mine are leaking a bit, so when I decelerate and then get on the gas again it smokes.

 

What size feed line are you running? Where do you have it tapped from?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crvtkllr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a b16t with a t3/t04e snail. i have no type of pcv set up, its the same set-up as it came from the fac.
I also did a comp. test and everything is fine in the cylinders, And for some reason my car is smoking only on deceleration and not so much on acceleration.
Ive blown these seals before so im gussing thats what it is AGAIN
Oh and theres no restriction in the oil return line

PLEASE HELP!! All suggestions are needed thanxs</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds liek you need to get a restirctor on there. Install a restrictor aka function7 fitting not the adjustable valve thing and try that, if you still have smoke then your going to need to replace the turbo seals again. and then if you STILL have smoke my bet is cracked ringlands. My buddies delsol started smoking when the oil seal blew out on the turbo and then after boosting the stock motor for a while it smoked heavily one day after wer made severla highway pulls to 140. Tear the engine down and bam all four pistons cracked ringlands, motor still showed good compression too.

 

its a built motor with brand new oem valve seals
and the feed line is a -4 with a forced performance restricter in-line

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crvtkllr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a built motor with brand new oem valve seals
and the feed line is a -4 with a forced performance restricter in-line</TD></TR></TABLE>

and the oil feed is coming from the back of the block,

could the seals be blowing because of the pcv set-up???

 

Do you have an oil restrictor installed? Hig pressure oil will own your turbo.. Mine blew the seals 2 weeks after installing it brand new... Put new seals, installed an oil restrictor and problem fixed

 

Can you tell where the oil is coming from? Are the spark plugs coverd in it, or is there any dripping out the ehxuast housing on the turbo?

PCV system. If you have the one from the valve cover still leading into your intake then that needs to be changed pronto. And you would be better off taking the one from the back of the block, and running that open atmosphere or to a catch can and blocking that port off on your manifold. there is a whole huge thread on this, should be up top somewhere as a sticky.

Also, might want to change to a 3 an line with restrictor.

 

the turbo only needs 15psi of oil hondas put out over 50psi at over 2k rpms some people say a -3 line is still too big I have Turbonetics T04E with a -3 never no problem with seals 2 years running

 

Its very possible that you are getting excessive crank case pressure and forcing oil past the seal. Dynmic seals don't just "blow."

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coneheadsracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you tell where the oil is coming from? Are the spark plugs coverd in it, or is there any dripping out the ehxuast housing on the turbo?

PCV system. If you have the one from the valve cover still leading into your intake then that needs to be changed pronto. And you would be better off taking the one from the back of the block, and running that open atmosphere or to a catch can and blocking that port off on your manifold. there is a whole huge thread on this, should be up top somewhere as a sticky.

Also, might want to change to a 3 an line with restrictor.</TD></TR></TABLE>


the spark plugs are reading perfect

as far as the pcv system= the one from the valve cover is not leading to anything its blowing into the atmophere and the back of the block remains the same as stock.

 

so everyone here is runing the stock pcv set-up or what

can someone tell me the right way to set this pcv set-up once and for all???

All the help needed

 

And you would be better off taking the one from the back of the block, and running that open atmosphere or to a catch can and blocking that port off on your manifold. .[/QUOTE]

what do you mean??????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crvtkllr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And you would be better off taking the one from the back of the block, and running that open atmosphere or to a catch can and blocking that port off on your manifold. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you mean??????[/QUOTE]


Information on Catch Cans and how to construct them: (thanks 95gsrcivic)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=766009
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=722482
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=687222
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=684673

...and the official crankcase evacuation thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199935 (thanks dasher)