i have a 92 integra ls, with a cold air intake. when ever i take off the car seems to stutter and almost die because of what seems to be loss of power. and after the car is warmed up and drove around a few miles it starts to stutter, and eventuly will cut off. when it cuts off i have to wait a few minutes before i can get it to start again. i have recently changed the fuel filter spark plugs, and the headgasket. which didn't seem to work for the stuttering problem. tomorrow im going to check the vacum lines and look at the cap and rotor. is there anything else i should look at? what are your thoughts? oh and theres no check engine light.

 

Sounds like a fuel pump relay...

 

to me it sounds like a oxygen sensor same thing happen to my teg it studder only when it gets hot but goes aways when u floor it. just replace it

 

Dont just replace parts that people tell you to, test them with a multimeter. Shotgunning things isnt the cheapest way to fix a car. Hook a generic scanner up to the car and watch the PID's of the car. When the problem occurs what to see what changes dramatically. Fuel pump relay you can test with a meter, with a diagram you should be able to see the circuit and how it works in order to diagnose.

o2 sensors do not primarily control fuel, they adjust it as much as they can as a backup after the car warms up. Check it with a meter and see if the voltage is scewed a bit.

 

im going to take my fuel relay out today and test it, although im not sure if it will do anything since the car only stutters and stalls when warmed up. if the o2 sensor was messed up would it throw a cell? and what is a PID?

thanks for the info so far

 

You would have a CEL if it was effecting your emissions which they usually do if they are bad. A PID is data that can be read using a scanner, there not trouble codes like DTC's but rather just info of what your engine is doing. Pretty much what the computer is reading from all the sensors on the car, sometimes helpful when trying to diagnose.

Thats common for failed fuel pump relays to cut in and out... another thing to try is when it wont start back up, turn the key on and listen to hear if the fuel pump even kicks on. If not you know that its not getting power. The fuel pump should recieve 12v when you turn the key on, bad relay wont kick over and feed it its 12v.

 

UM NO. DONT FIX ANYTHING ELSE, DONT TEST ANYTHING ELSE NOTHING.

Replace the distributor. Your an expensive part and labor, and being ready the next day 350. People who know the know,

 

The car works perfect while cold, its not a fuel problem or spark or compression problem.

Once the engine is warmed, it feels like it has too much or too little fuel, its FEELING weak. You talk about it starting up a few minutes after it cuts out, and possible the fuel evaporated and now it can run, as if being too rich.

But the evidence you cant see, is there is no spark. Test it, run your car in one spot until you can remake the situation to cut the motor out, now you have the sympotm, check for spark immediatly.

Wait however long you wait to restart it, 10 minutes or whatever and starts up.

its the distributor, its between everything, and most know it.

 

Spark is a possibility... heat increases resistance. That means if theres a fault in your ignition it will get worse as the car warms up. But, this usually wont cause the car to die like this and then be able to start back up minutes later. I had a similar problem with a misfire which would only happen when the car was warmed up, however never caused the car to die... i dont think this is spark related but its easy to test for so go for it.

 

yeah it would trow a cell its one solid lights that keeps flashing non stop atleast on DA's