removing a TPS?
So i need to replace my throttle position sensor, how are you susposed to remove them? the little rivvets i dont know how or if im suposed to pop those off? thanks in advance.
its a pita to take off cuz i guess honda didn't want you to remove them in the first place, what i did was get a dremal and cut slits like poison said it was really annoying but try to be careful not to brweak the top of the screw off and leave half in the whole cuz thats what i did
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Grab a dremel, and cut a "slit" into it. Put a flat head screw driver to it, and take it out like a regular screw.</TD></TR></TABLE> alright thats the route ill take then sounds fairly easy......but whats this about recalibration?
my junk yard doesnt have any b-series motors except for 1st gen LS's.
my junk yard doesnt have any b-series motors except for 1st gen LS's.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats weird my b16's tps had it held on by torx screws</TD></TR></TABLE>it was probably replaced at some point then.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itsJDMbradyo! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it was probably replaced at some point then.</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct. I've also seen a lot of JDM engines that have screws holding 'em in. makes me wonder.
correct. I've also seen a lot of JDM engines that have screws holding 'em in. makes me wonder.
cut slits in the screws with a hacksaw/dremel anything like stated before, you calibrate it with a voltmeter, measure voltage on the middle wire I believe and it should be .45v at closed throttle and 4.5v at WOT, loosen the screws and twist it until it reads right.
you have 2 screws, when you loosen them both you should be able to rotate the tps sensor about 1/4 of an inch, the sensor should have slots cut in it that will let you rotate the sensor back and forth to get your proper .45/4.5v reading as stated before. if the reading is .40v at closed throttle for instance, rotate the sensor a tiny bit until you get a reading of .45v, good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dthug »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can use any b, d, or h series tps</TD></TR></TABLE> thanks, i got a good tps on my d16
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lemon_juice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drill out the rivits, and when replacing the new TPS youll need to re-calibrate it.
easier to go to the junk yard and find a tb with a good tps</TD></TR></TABLE>
easier to go to the junk yard and find a tb with a good tps</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
correct. I've also seen a lot of JDM engines that have screws holding 'em in. makes me wonder. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Every JDM motor that I have ordered or installed has had screws instead of rivits.
Weird.
correct. I've also seen a lot of JDM engines that have screws holding 'em in. makes me wonder. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Every JDM motor that I have ordered or installed has had screws instead of rivits.
Weird.
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rasta420
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Apr 11, 2003 02:24 PM




