I just got a set of ferrea exhaust valves and KMS intake valves for my b series. They are basically new.

Should i
A) Install them while i and replacing my valve seals
B) stay stock.

I plan on FI soon, so i dont know about how well stock valves will hold up.

 

what the expletive are you going to do with valves with stock cams, springs, retainers and a otherwise stock engine

 

Yeah, I would keep them and buy some more aftermarket valvetrain parts.

 

Who said i dont have upgraded springs and retainers, cuz i do. The question is, is it worth it to upgrade the valves since i ALREADY HAVE THEM and plan to boost soon.

 

Eh. Save you the trouble of doing it later I guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumminforev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should i

B) stay stock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumminforev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who said i dont have upgraded springs and retainers, cuz i do. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you

 

then whats the point of an aftermarket valve

 

i agree with djaric.....save alot of trouble to do it now that you're already having the seals put in.... rather than later and have to rip it back apart

 

id just leave it stock and boost it

 

There are a few reasons why after market valves are made. On the intake side, the valves are stronger, they can be larger/oversized (requires matching headwork), and they can be swirl polished to help fuel atomization. On the exhaust side, the valves are made of a stronger alloy which prevents them from burning up.

Should you install them? It's up to you. Stronger valves are good in a sense that they won't burn up, yet they are also bad in a sense that if you snap a timing belt and have piston-to-valve contact, the valves are going to punch holes through your pistons instead of bending out of the way like stockers.

Basically it comes down to this - the aftermarket intake valves might gain you a small amount of HP, and the aftermarket exhaust valves won't burn up once you're turbo'd. Although, if you are tuned right, your EGT's shouldn't be high enough to burn an exhaust valve anyway.

Furthermore, swapping valves requires a fresh valve job ($150) or a fresh lap job at the very least (cheap, ghetto method). You can't just "swap" valves. If you try it, you're going to have horrible compression and leakdown numbers.

Also, aftermarket valves have nothing to do with springs/cams/retainers. I'm not sure why that comment was made.

 

You might aswell install them if the head is off the block anyways.

 

just install them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shepherd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are a few reasons why after market valves are made. On the intake side, the valves are stronger, they can be larger/oversized (requires matching headwork), and they can be swirl polished to help fuel atomization. On the exhaust side, the valves are made of a stronger alloy which prevents them from burning up.

Should you install them? It's up to you. Stronger valves are good in a sense that they won't burn up, yet they are also bad in a sense that if you snap a timing belt and have piston-to-valve contact, the valves are going to punch holes through your pistons instead of bending out of the way like stockers.

Basically it comes down to this - the aftermarket intake valves might gain you a small amount of HP, and the aftermarket exhaust valves won't burn up once you're turbo'd. Although, if you are tuned right, your EGT's shouldn't be high enough to burn an exhaust valve anyway.

Furthermore, swapping valves requires a fresh valve job ($150) or a fresh lap job at the very least (cheap, ghetto method). You can't just "swap" valves. If you try it, you're going to have horrible compression and leakdown numbers.

Also, aftermarket valves have nothing to do with springs/cams/retainers. I'm not sure why that comment was made.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, didnt know about the new valve job needed....and whats a lap job? ghetto way?

How small of hp increase are we talking about. 5whp isnt worth 150 plus the price of valves (meaning i can sell them.)


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT’S ME DAVID &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might aswell install them if the head is off the block anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The head is not off. which means new HG and bolts, which i dont want to pay for unless neccessary

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumminforev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks, didnt know about the new valve job needed....and whats a lap job? ghetto way?

How small of hp increase are we talking about. 5whp isnt worth 150 plus the price of valves (meaning i can sell them.)


The head is not off. which means new HG and bolts, which i dont want to pay for unless neccessary</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some aftermarket valves are stronger, like the ones you have and can support higher revs/more power then stock valves. Some are designed such to help increase head flow as well. Sometimes people get them a few mm over sized which can also help flow.
So pretty much, just for piece of mind.

"lapping" the valves is what you do to seat them and is the finishing step to a valve job (although if the valve seat area is OK and left unchanged, you can just lap a new valve onto the seat). After the valve seats are ground or cut or what have you, and the valves are either refurbished by grinding the worn seat area smooth, or by using new, you have to slightly grind away the polished area where the valve contacts the seat, so that it both sits and seals properly. And also allows you to check the contact area. (although thats what you usually use blueing compound or whatever its called to check for, before you do the lapping)
This is done by putting a small amount of abrasive compound on the valve area where it meets the seat and usuing a suctioncup on a stick or similar device you make several back and forth movements pushing the valve gently into the head to grind away some of the polished contact area. Then simply wipe off the compound.