whats up guys got a 95 civic sedan with a 95LS turbo motor. its got a brand new PWR radiator, thermostat, and water pump but the damn thing still overheats. after driving for 30mins the upper and lower radiator hoses get really hard. and the fan is really inconsitant. can anyone shed some light one this problem.

 

could be a faulty sensor....try changing your coolant temp sensor

 

Make sure you purge all of the air out of the cooling system after you replaced those parts otherwise it will do what you're describing because of an air pocket in the system. One min temp will be fine, the next you'll be cookin the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beaneg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could be a faulty sensor....try changing your coolant temp sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>

uh no!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shades946 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you purge all of the air out of the cooling system after you replaced those parts otherwise it will do what you're describing because of an air pocket in the system. One min temp will be fine, the next you'll be cookin the motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

BINGO! you beat me to the point. the one things people have the tendency to forget when dealing with the cooling system

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uh no!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

uh yes! it very well could be a sensor, i had to recently replace mine, my sensor was faulty, one minute my car would be cold, then the next it would be hot, the sensor was acting up,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beaneg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

uh yes! it very well could be a sensor, i had to recently replace mine, my sensor was faulty, one minute my car would be cold, then the next it would be hot, the sensor was acting up,</TD></TR></TABLE>

then i would say you were pretty unlucky. i bet 99% of his problem is air in the system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

then i would say you were pretty unlucky. i bet 99% of his problem is air in the system.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah

 

quick question how you purge???

 

when you do a cooling system service make sure you leave the **** on the heater side with air off. make sure the fan cycles twice.......make sure no leaks or blown head gasket

 

someone also told me that the boost presure could be lifting the head gasket causing the coolant in the block to be under presure. anyone ever heard of this

 

cycle fan how?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pzn801 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cycle fan how?</TD></TR></TABLE> he means let it run till the fan turns on twice.

 

try your thermostat... its a cheap part your not getting oil and a coolant mix are you?

 

ah ha, and this is without coolant correct???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pzn801 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ah ha, and this is without coolant correct???</TD></TR></TABLE>with coolant

 

The way i get the air out of the system is i have the engine cool and with the radiator cap off i start it and turn on the heat (all assuming you already have coolant in the radiator). While it is warming up i'll add what i need to get the radiator full. While i'm adding i'll run the rpms up to help suck more coolant down and i will also be squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses to help push out the air. When you get air out, you'll see the coolant bubble if you're looking down where your radiator cap goes on. The squeezing of the hoses is what really seems to get the air out more than anything else. The reving of the motor will suck down what you just filled up so that way you can add more coolant after it has gone down. After a few mins of repeating the process you should be good to go. Oh, and do remember to put the radiator cap back on

 

okay guys the car has a brand new pwr radiator, thermostat, waterpump, and headgasket. and the damn thing still heats up. the upper and lower radiator hoses become rock solid after 10-15 mins of driving. on of my friends said the cylinder might be cracked or the head is warped. what do you guys think

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedeg9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay guys the car has a brand new pwr radiator, thermostat, waterpump, and headgasket. and the damn thing still heats up. the upper and lower radiator hoses become rock solid after 10-15 mins of driving. on of my friends said the cylinder might be cracked or the head is warped. what do you guys think</TD></TR></TABLE>

im freakin out man...thats almost exactly like your original post. lol seriously though..

cracked cyl. is worste case, try all the things recommended. burp your coolant...compression test will rule out a head gasket issue.

 

did you re-surface the head before putting new gasket?

 

sounds like a bleeding issue. any white smoke out the exhaust?

 

would a unproperly bleed system cause the upper and lower radiator hoses to be rock solid while the motor is running

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95EG1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you re-surface the head before putting new gasket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no i didnt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wudini &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im freakin out man...thats almost exactly like your original post. lol seriously though..

cracked cyl. is worste case, try all the things recommended. burp your coolant...compression test will rule out a head gasket issue. </TD></TR></TABLE>
what should the comp numbers be across all cyclinders

 

Not to thread hijack but...

Does the OEM thermostat have a bleed "screw"? The write-ups I found on HT and in my Chilton say and show bleed screw, but my thermostat has more of a peg that sort of dangles.

 

maybe the coolant seal