budget

well i installed a new slim fan and flush out the cooling system when i was at it and now the car runs kinda hot. after i leave the car off for after driving about an hour turn it on and its almost fully warmed already... it never did this before. from there it'll reach normal temps in less than a mintute!

while driving for a while it will rise above the first "squilly line" and almost go over the 2nd one and then go down back to normal.

i was kinda nervous so i drove around with the heater on most of the way. BUT it never actually overheated

nocturnaldragon

You propably have an air bubble in the system yet. Did you make sure you have enough coolant in the radiator as well?

nocturnaldragon

Ohh you could have a stuck closed thermostate as well.

red-eg6

bad sensor? bad thermostat?

red-eg6

did u releave the pressure when u put coolant back in to get all air bubbles out?

budget

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red-eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did u releave the pressure when u put coolant back in to get all air bubbles out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do i do this?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nocturnaldragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ohh you could have a stuck closed thermostate as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do i know if it is?

nocturnaldragon

I normally leave the radiator cap off untill it starts to buble over, that allows all the air to burp out, on some cars theres a bleeder bolt on the engine normally on the top most piece for a rad hose.

As for the thermostate theres a way to test it but you have to remove it and frankly its a waste of time, Just get a new one.

But if the engine warms up quickly and dosent cool down even after burping the system its more then likely a frozen thermostat.

budget

[QUOTE=nocturnaldragon]I normally leave the radiator cap off untill it starts to buble over QUOTE]

what do you mean bubble over? and how do i know when its done burping? do i take the cap off and put a funnel in it and then?

Kista20

is the fan reversable? it sounds like you have it facing the wrong direction, get a piece of paper and hold it near the fan and see if it sucks it in or blows it away.

budget

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kista20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the fan reversable? it sounds like you have it facing the wrong direction, get a piece of paper and hold it near the fan and see if it sucks it in or blows it away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes the fan is reversable, standing in front of the car i can feel the aftermarket slim fan blowing so hard i can feel it just standing there. thats correct right? (not being sarcastic lol)

_Cyclone_

The fan should be blowing air toward the engine.

The proper way to bleed the system step by step is as follows:

Wait until the coolant is completly cool, aka 4 hours or so. Remove the rad cap, top it up and get in the car. Now move the heater slide control all the way to hot and leave the fan off, start your engine. Get back out now and watch the coolant level in the rad. As the coolant warms up, it will expand and spill over the top, but at the same time, all the air will follow it out. Watch the level to make sure it doesn't get below the top of the rad, because it will as the air burps out. Keep doing this until your fan comes on, then the level will drop drastically... make sure you keep filling it until the fan turns off, then quickly put the rad cap back on. That's the way I've always done it, and it's never failed on any Honda. Try and bleed a GM cooling system this way, and that's a different story!

bambbrose

iTrader: (1)

no, it should be sucking, not blowing towards the front of the car

red-eg6

lol whats blowing the engine gonna do? it needs to pull air through the radiator. lol good one

budget

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _Cyclone_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The fan should be blowing air toward the engine.

The proper way to bleed the system step by step is as follows:

Wait until the coolant is completly cool, aka 4 hours or so. Remove the rad cap, top it up and get in the car. Now move the heater slide control all the way to hot and leave the fan off, start your engine. Get back out now and watch the coolant level in the rad. As the coolant warms up, it will expand and spill over the top, but at the same time, all the air will follow it out. Watch the level to make sure it doesn't get below the top of the rad, because it will as the air burps out. Keep doing this until your fan comes on, then the level will drop drastically... make sure you keep filling it until the fan turns off, then quickly put the rad cap back on. That's the way I've always done it, and it's never failed on any Honda. Try and bleed a GM cooling system this way, and that's a different story!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought the fan was supposed to blow on the radiator? the fan doesnt blow towards the engine at all??

so the fan is not supposed to blow towards the front of the car? i dont get how i have it hooked up wrong though, its 2 wires and they are color coded

Kista20

thats why the paper trick works great because the fan can fool you if you just put your hand near it but with the paper it will prove which direction it's going. Get the fan blowing the other way and try again. Switch the two wires to reverse the fan.

budget

right now its like this....



i thoguht you just wire it up like stock, blue to the blue and black to the black? so just switch it to be black and blue and blue to the other black?


EDIT- So do the colors not mean anything? besides positive and negative? and i should switch the wires?

Kista20

yeah thats correct. The fan should have come with instructions on how to switch directions. The reason they can forward and backwards is so you can install it in front or behind the radiator. Since it's currently blowing air in that direction it would work great if it was placed in front of the radiator but sometime it isn't feasable to do that and it's actually easier to flip the two wires.

94hatchling

when i first got my car, my fan was blowing the wrong way as well, and overheated at idle after a while. turns out, blew the wrong way. reversed the polarity (reversed the wires) and done deal, taken car of. i have a reversable fan as well.... could have flipped it around, but was easier to just reverse the wires.

and just replace the thermostat if it leaves some kind of doubt in your mind, they are cheap, like $5 tops. good luck.

Punker1234

all you do is switch the wires, and the fan will blow opposite direction. I knwo this because some reaons my rad fan doesn't come on and i had ot test to make sure the fan woudl work, so hooked it up to my car battery. i noticed when i switched the wires the fan went the other way kinda sucks they put the wrong color code on! or it's incorrect or whatever

budget

would it be any advantage to switch the fan around to the front and leave the wires how the are? or to just switch the wires and leave the fan where it is?

Punker1234

no leave the fan how it is. putting the fan in front will block air from coming in when the fan isn't on. Like for example, if your on the freeway, your car stays cool cus air is being pushed into the radiator from moving at 65 mph. The fan doens't come on because there is alreayd enough airflow into the radiator. If you added a fan in front of it, it will reduce the amount of air thats going into the radiator. Just switch the wires, make sure the fan is blowing toward the rear of the vehicle and u'll be ok

fasthatchb18c1

Leave the fan where it is and switch the wires, you want to be sucking air in the engine bay.

edit: like he said /\

budget

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punker1234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no leave the fan how it is. putting the fan in front will block air from coming in when the fan isn't on. Like for example, if your on the freeway, your car stays cool cus air is being pushed into the radiator from moving at 65 mph. The fan doens't come on because there is alreayd enough airflow into the radiator. If you added a fan in front of it, it will reduce the amount of air thats going into the radiator. Just switch the wires, make sure the fan is blowing toward the rear of the vehicle and u'll be ok </TD></TR></TABLE>


haha ok thanks! sry im a noob

so is this def. the problem of the "semi-overheating" b/c i would think if the thermo is stuck closed or air bubbles were in the system it would overheat more?

fasthatchb18c1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suxway &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so is this def. the problem of the "semi-overheating" b/c i would think if the thermo is stuck closed or air bubbles were in the system it would overheat more?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah it would, is your fan turning on when your at a stop light? If not see if your lower radiator hose gets hot when you start to over heat. If it gets hot and your fan does not kick in change the thermo switch, if the hose stays cold get a new thermostat.

wow deja vu

budget

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fasthatchb18c1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah it would, is your fan turning on when your at a stop light? If not see if your lower radiator hose gets hot when you start to over heat. If it gets hot and your fan does not kick in change the thermo switch, if the hose stays cold get a new thermostat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

when i pulled in when i got home tonight, i popped the hood and the fan was on and the lower radiator hose was hot.