Alrighty then - maybe I'm the slow one on the block, but as my first front rotor was "stuck" to the hub last night, I realized I forgot to make sure I had a couple bolts to thread in & push them off....(btw the rubber mallot didn't work )

TRICK - since I didn't see any extra bolts in my cabinet the right size I decided to take the Spare Tire Mounting Screw out & use it. Guess what - PERFECT fit & even has the nice little handle to turn with!

Hope this helps anybody stuck at the track needing to switch rotors & can't get their rotors loose.

 

I still like the BFH method


Or the smoke wrench if you have one.

Will
-who removed his rotors at the first tire rotation and applied anti-seize

 

The caliper pin bolts fit fine too

 

Dude...that's scary.

What is BFH? -A

 

naahhhh that is just "D"

BFH = Big ******* Hammer
Smoke wrench = torch

Will

 

Okay Will - I applied "anti-seize" before installing my new ones too. Now "PUT THE DAMN AXE DOWN & STEP AWAY FROM THE VEHICLE!" hehehehe (nice pic)

 

anti-seize ROX!

My brake system stinks of anti-seize once it gets up to temp..

fyi: that is a pic of "D"

Will
-who would cry if he had to live in the salt belt..

[sp]


[Modified by Willard, 10:10 AM 5/1/2002]

 

Just put a light film of antiseize on the back mating surface of the rotor before installation.

But then again, here in Florida we rarely have 'stuck' rotors. No salt on the roads.
Hell, there is no rust on my car at all. Every bolt on the undercarriage is shiny as new.

 

If I am not mistake Jeff the OTHER TWO HOLES in the rotor are for this problem. USe the rotor screws in these holes to push the rotor off the hub.

Read this somewhere have never tried it a rubber malet has always suficed.

 

yup. i did that the 1st time i swapped r0t0rs. i used bolts though- not the rotor screws and it popped right off. since then anti-seize has made doing that unnecessary

-the other jeff

 

It's all good - just thought I'd throw in another option for anybody who gets "stuck" if you know what I mean Go figure - the second rotor came right off & didn't even need to use the bfh

 

Every bolt on my undercarriage is rusted to **** and needs to be replaced

 

i'm still laughing about the "smoke wrench"

 

Now that is just mean!!!! Everytime I want to remove a bolt from under the car, I have to fight with it like you would not beleive because of all the rust. When I remove my rotors, I could not even use those extra holes because the rotors just cracked around them. I had to use a three leg puller and a big hammer .

JPP who as been fighting with the crankshaft pulley bolt for the last two days and now must use more drastic measures


[Modified by JPP, 10:21 AM 5/1/2002]

 

JPP, have fun with that crank shaft pulley bolt. took me 3 days to get it. This is with a very good IR impact, car in 5th gear on the ground, e-brake up and someone holding the brakes in the car. still couldn't get it. How i finally got it? got the tool that fits in the crank pulley, put it in, and wedge it with a breaker bar against the lower suspension arm. Then used a 1 1/2 foot impact extension, with a piece of wood under it for support. Used a 1/2" breaker bar, with my 5 foot jack handle on it. Then proceeded to do a pull up on it, and FINALLY got it off.

 

Oh I'm having fun all right... I actually used a set-up very similar to the one you are describing but in my case the result was a broken breaker bar It's a good thing it is a Crafstman garantied for life.

 

you'll notice in the angry pic of D that the rotor is missing a chunk...right about where one of the threaded holes for pulling the rotor off seperated from the hat, despite being evenly turned. He must've beat on that thing for a week before it finally came off, hence the conan-the-barbarian-like photo of victory



I'm about to attack my thorougly fux0red brake retaining screws today...angry drill time.

 

Breaker bars are cute - right up to the point where you have an aftermarket aluminum crank pulley that you really don't want to be bending if you know what I mean.... Not to mention - Unorthodox Crank pulley doesn't have the insert molded in for the holder like the OEM piece.

A hot block, a little motor oil in the gun & a BIG ******* COMPRESSOR did the trick {it was a good excuse for me to upgrade compressors }

 

[QUOTE=TodaSi]<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>
Hell, there is no rust on my car at all. Every bolt on the undercarriage is shiny as new.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Every bolt on my undercarriage is rusted to **** and needs to be replaced


AMEN!!!!

 

i just sprayed half my can of wd-40 and wiggled the damn thing off......it was hard to. and it smelled really nice int he garages afterwards. i can still smeel the wd-40 in the garage.

 

FWIW, i use an Impact Driver on the rotor screws and use some bolts to pop the rotor off of the hub. I believe they are 12x1.5 or 12x1.25 but i am not certain. I have a few in my box of miscelania that fit fine and take a 10mm wrench. Its much less effort and much quieter than wailing on them with a sledge.

Everything gets cleaned and antiseized when it goes back together.

 

These bloody Jaguars that I work on, well they require a 4 foot torque wrench, two people, and somewhere around 270-300 ft/bs of torque on the crank pulley bolt. (Cant remember exactly the spec. but its right around there) Havent done one yet, but I would sure hate to.