hey there, i was building a NA motor but now deicided to go boost on my build setup is:

B18B motor
head cleaned
valves machined and buffed
new valve seals
buddy club cam gears
stock cams
ARP head studs
head milled 20thou
oil catch can, bungs welded into valve cover
ITR intake manifold machined to fit the LS head
FPR

block:
stock bore CP forged pistons 9:1 compression
eagle H beam rods
crank micropolished and balanced
new bearings, all new gaskets and seals

boost parts:
custom made top mount manifold
turbo - ??
wastegate - ??
BOV - ??
downpipe is 3'' custom made
motor will be professionaly tuned with chrome.

now mostly everything is done on the motor, picking up the pistons on friday and next monday dropping the block and pistons off for the block to get honed. then as soon as the eagle H-beam rods and some loose ends come in i'll be slapping the motor together. enough talk here's some pics:

the head:





valves:



block:



cleaned out all the sludge and **** from the oil pan:



cam gears:



ITR intake manifold machined to fit the LS head:





micropolished crank:



here's a couple of pics of the maifold that's being made for me right now, the builder has one on his CRX, he does great work and is making mine pretty much like this







i'll update this post as the build continues.

questions:

- where can i find a quality turbo (not ebay junk) for a good price? i'm looking for a T3/T4 with a budget of 300-400, possible? perhaps used?

- depending on tuning, is 250-300whp attainable? that's roughly my goal.

- will i max out stock injectors/fuel system for 250-300whp? (probably will but not sure)

- clutch recomondations?

thanks for the help and sorry for my long *** post

~~~~~~~~Update: sept 14th~~~~~~~~

got some pics from member weir who is making the manifold. it's looking great! also going to go pick up my forged pistons after work








~~~~~~~~~~Update sept. 15th

more progress with the manifold, like i said before, weir does amazing work! i also picked up my forged CP 9:1 pistons last night, i'll post pics of those as soon as i get my hands on a digital camera (yes i can boost my car, yet i'm too cheap to buy a digi cam ) i'm dropping off the block and pistons to the machine shop to have the block honed on monday. anyway, here's the progress on the manifold








Modified by Flexin5 at 2:18 AM 9/15/2006


Modified by Flexin5 at 2:24 AM 9/15/2006


Modified by Flexin5 at 12:18 AM 9/16/2006


Modified by Flexin5 at 12:25 AM 9/16/2006

 

Looks good.

Weir is a good welder. I like his manifold. Mild steel all the way.


>>><<<

 

they arnt all junk, most turbo seal problems are preventable by not running more oil pressure than whats needed. Some honda pumps will push almost double the required oil pressure to keep your turbo lubed/cool. Just use a oil restrictor and see how well it'll work for you no matter what turbo brand name (well some may have qaulity issues but this goes for garrett and the like to) Most turbos are a brand name turbo with custom housings. Precision and Turbonetics I believe are actual Garrett turbos with custom housings. They sometimes cut the wheels to make them seem better in some way but really they are all compairable.

You "could" in theory but ONLY if your fuel supply setup can keep up. More then likely the 200psi rail pressure required will cause problems. Your stock pump wont be able to take the load and/or at that load it wont be able to supply the volume needed to maintain. IF you did have a fuel pump that could meet these demands, you would have 200PSI of pressure working against your injector opening and closeing. Your Injector can actualy get stuck open or closed causeing them to no longer be controled. This is why you should upgrade yoru fuel pump and get larger Injectors rated for more CC's at your stock rail pressure w. the added 1:1 ratio to compensate boost pressure. (43.5 rail + 10psi boost = 53.5psi rail pressure)

I'd say go with 550's or larger for your goal and you should be golden. (if you wanna be able to meet your goal at 80% duty or below)

Phil at SpoolinPerformance has some "GREAT" deals on injectors. Check out his thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1419494


A shorter version, no. lol (i wanted to explain why tho)

Mainly you want a stronger pressure plate, the Clutch Disk doesnt help as much as the Pressure Plate, but haveing a puck disk can let you hold more TQ then over a normal street clutch disk. Order a ACT Xtreme pressureplate and Order the street disk. They make a combo for this at ACT, much better for your goals. Puck clutchs catch like hell and shock yoru drivetrain a lot. The street disk to me feels more streetable.

no prob


Modified by JDMs1eeper at 4:16 AM 9/11/2006


Modified by JDMs1eeper at 4:21 AM 9/11/2006

 

nice top mount manifold...who makes it?

you are defiantly going to need upgraded fuel injectors and fuel pump. shoot me a email fuzz i have a good used walbro 255lph high pressure pump for sale if you are interested.

if you are on a budget you can use DSM injectors with a resistor box i believe they are like 440-450cc's but i would splurge for RC550cc's.

check the classifieds. there are lot of used t3/t04e's for sale that are in decent condition. a new one is going to run you 550USD+.

as for a clutch......i would go for clutchmasters stage 3. the CM stage 3 is a little expensive but is a great street clutch. maybe look into a ACT for something cheaper?

and why are you using the stock cams....you should use the 403's i sold you if you do some searching around you will see the crower N/A cams work really well with boost. lots of guys making great power with them especially once tuned.

good luck man.....

 

yea what are you doing for your engine mgt???
get a 255 walboro and some injectors, manifold def looks nice id say go with a 60-1 turbo right now my turbo ls has a t3t4 57trim i love it if your doin a street car spools at like 35 full boost at like 4-45 and holds 25psi, my car made 242hp and 226tq on 7psi with a BONE STOCK 150,000 mile ls, so you should do damn good with the right TUNE!!!

 

you want budget and high HP numbers? borg warner GM-8. nice and big, but really cheap.

oh, and weir is a hell of a welder, im sure you will be VERY happy with your manifold


Modified by I Have an STD at 4:04 AM 9/19/2006

 

Glad to see you're going boost instead of all motor non-vtec.

I have about the same goals with my gsr. RC550's walbro HP

I've got a Competition stage 4 (holds 300-350% more torque than stock) in my car right now if you ever want to try it out and see if you like it.

A re-built turbo from west coast turbo sells them in your price range, with garrett internals. Heard mixed stories about them tho.

Keep us updated.

-Matt

 

At first glance i thought this thread was about a b18a inside of an Insight.

 

600+whp non-VTEC on crower 404's: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1620181

 

Good luck on the build...this **** is ADDICTIVE man!!! You will want more power then that after you get it up and running!!! lol!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexin5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-where can i find a quality turbo (not ebay junk) for a good price? i'm looking for a T3/T4 with a budget of 300-400, possible? perhaps used?

- depending on tuning, is 250-300whp attainable? that's roughly my goal.

- will i max out stock injectors/fuel system for 250-300whp? (probably will but not sure)

- clutch recomondations?

thanks for the help and sorry for my long *** post


</TD></TR></TABLE>

PM'd you about the turbo.

I would advise you to leave yourself a little room for safety and a little room to grow. I would go with 720cc or 88occ injectors and a Competition Clutch stage 5.

 

wow, thanks for the responses, i think now i'll definatley get injectors and a fuel pump (thanks to NON-vtec). i went to the machine shop today, turns out the cylender walls on the block are a little out of wack. they are not perfectley round and are out of spec by about 1thou on #2 and about 1.5thou on #3. should that create a problem for blow by? i found out that for the forged CP pistons need about 3thou clearance, so the machine shop will have to hone the block a bit. the pistons are also stock bore. will this fix the problem of having the two inner cylender walls out of wack by the 1thou and 1.5thou?

 

There is a guy on Ebay right now selling genuine Garrett units GT35R's for 500 shipped.... as soon as I see his feedback from a couple of them I'm getting one. Now that's a turbo that gives you room to grow lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexin5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">head milled 20thou</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you use a stock headgasket, make sure to remove the same amount from the dowel pins. Some people do not realize that removing excessive amount of material from the head or block sometimes allow the dowel pin to actually hold the head from the block. With every set-up that receives new sleeves or head resurfacing I always remove at least 20 thou from the dowel pins.

Just a little fyi.



Do I spy jb weld?

 

Like others have said walbro 255, some bigger injectors (you might want larger than 550's if you want to up the power later). As for a clutch many people use the action 2md clutch with very good results. If you want a good turbo for 200-300, you can get a used t3/t4 garret or you can get a used/rebuilt holset (either hx35 with 12cm^2 turbine housing or hy35 with the 9cm^2 housing if you want faster spool). These turbos are quite stout and flow a lot of air with pretty big sweet spots. GL.

ps - I woulnd't try one of thost "genuine garrett internal" turbos. Just not worth the risk.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do I spy jb weld? </TD></TR></TABLE>

it's actually aluminum weld that was grinded/sanded/polished down........i should know i sold him that manifold

 

bUmp updated

 

your setup is pretty close to what im "going to do" other than i chose different internals.

still need need to figure out the physics of playing with the comrpession ratio with the pistons/head gasket thickness/surface of head and block

your block and head look damn clean tho, im guessing they were painted? My motor sure as hell didnt look like that after i pulled it out of an integra

good luck on your build tho, **** is expensive aint it?

glad to see a project that the motor is actually built when turboed, just so expensive to have a built block plus a decent turbo done the right way

bump

 

^thanks! when i tore apart the motor i cleaned it to get all the oil and gunk off the block, then painted it. i hope it will stand up to the heat.

bump, updated again!

 

got my forged 9:1 CP pistons the other day, dropping the block and pistons off at the machine shop tomorow morning. pistons: (sorry about the shitty web cam pics..lol)

 

glad to see its coming along

i'll be flying by you in no time!~

 

why would you go with a standard bore, when .20 over is very safe and will give you a cylinder thats not out of round..??

 

^well i got a deal on these pistons, and the machine shop said to get them, and he can see if he can get the block nice and round with correct clearances, if not, then i can exchange them for whatever overbore i need