racer034life

I am building my turbo hatch and i was wounder if my bottemend set-up will hold 300 on stock block. Here is what i have so far or buying in a few days
Ls short block deacked,honed and blueprinted and balanced with replacement sleeves
JE 8:5.1 pistos crower billetl rods
ls balanced crank,polished knife edged
itr water and oil pump
Ls head
JG X-factor intake
crower valve train
stock cams
Plaese if you see a problem change it or give me some tips on what you think i can do .



Modified by racer034life at 10:07 AM 5/12/2005

racer034life

Bump...also the head my not get done

ek9vboi2

unless u have a ported head, i would not get that jg intake manifold. it will make you lose mid range power.

with a built block, i dont see why u cant hit 350. if a stock LS motor can make 300 at like 13-14 psi, i dont see why it cant make 350.

get the head ported while u have the valve train put it, it can make easily 30-50 hp.

good luck

ReDHaTcHyGuy

u can just install pistons and rods in a stock B18b block, and get some valvetrain in the head and u can make 400........ without sleeves

0ERL Performance

Talk to Josh over at Raceline. They are one of our dealers and have done a lot of business with us. We are very close and would love to help with the engine.

Rod.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReDHaTcHy97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u can just install pistons and rods in a stock B18b block, and get some valvetrain in the head and u can make 400........ without sleeves</TD></TR></TABLE>

racer034life

also is 8:5.1 to low or should or whats a safe number to go with. And how do you all thin machine work is going to cost.
And i think im going to not by the manifold i need a 70 throttle body first

ReDHaTcHyGuy

u don't actually need the 70mm tb its not going to give u alot of power , it will give u some but it will smooth ur power band out

racer034life

So as far as my head goes is it worth doing it in parts or just do it all at once

ReDHaTcHyGuy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racer034life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So as far as my head goes is it worth doing it in parts or just do it all at once </TD></TR></TABLE>


what parts are u talking about?

racer034life

Like valve train parts. and head work. Should i just wait or do it all at once is what im asking. or just do the bottom end keep the head stock and go from there

ReDHaTcHyGuy

well i'd just do it all at once.no sense in doing things twice

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

you could wait and do the head later, i mean 8 bolts and its off....

but it would probably be easier and cheaper to do it all at once

racer034life

yea i see your points but i was trying to stay under 1500 for the bottem end.

ReDHaTcHyGuy

well u'll probably have around 700-800 in pistons and rods, and what ever it will cost u to get them installed if u can't do it urself

Seraph0

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racer034life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i see your points but i was trying to stay under 1500 for the bottem end. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not gonna happen with a sleeved bottom end.

racer034life

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MarkC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not gonna happen with a sleeved bottom end. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Im not sleeving my bottom end im going to billet rods Je pistons and maybe a 4340 crower crank

boost fed ls

Hey not to jack your thread but did you work in the service center at Honda Of America?

racer034life

no sorry i didnt

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racer034life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also is 8:5.1 to low or should or whats a safe number to go with. And how do you all thin machine work is going to cost.
And i think im going to not by the manifold i need a 70 throttle body first </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes. There is no need to drop that low to get good power, you'll tend to lose off boost response when you go down in compression that low. W/ the right turbo, stock compression (or even slightly higher) will do MORE than the trick

racer034life

whats a good com ratio also would any of you turbo a b20 block thats sleeved and through on a ls head, and what would you call this

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racer034life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats a good com ratio also would any of you turbo a b20 block thats sleeved and through on a ls head, and what would you call this </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you plan on swapping heads, it may be more effective to throw on a B16 head as opposed to finding another LS block and putting in more funds to build the LS head. for better response levels for it, stock compression (9.2:1) or slightly higher to even 9.5:1 with VERY good tuning, combined with the right turbo will give EXCELLENT response for a hybrid LS/VTEC street car.

_entropy

Yeah, because he's going to notice a half a point in compression on the street

The off boost response argument is whack, especially after seeing the car Evans tuned that lost a <FONT SIZE="4"><FONT COLOR="pink">WHOPPING</FONT></FONT> 1-2 WHP off boost going from 9:1 to 10:1.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racer034life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im not sleeving my bottom end im going to billet rods Je pistons and maybe a 4340 crower crank</TD></TR></TABLE>

And I'm sorry but this is the most hilarious and dumb thing at the same time I've ever read. You're going to put BILLET rods in your motor with forged pistons and replace what is arguably the strongest part in the entire motor, the crankshaft, but you're not going to fix one of the weaker links in the sleeves? Good lord.

racer034life

[QUOTE
And I'm sorry but this is the most hilarious and dumb thing at the same time I've ever read. You're going to put BILLET rods in your motor with forged pistons and replace what is arguably the strongest part in the entire motor, the crankshaft, but you're not going to fix one of the weaker links in the sleeves? Good lord.[/QUOTE]

Im using my money as best as i can. If you want to pay for my sleeves and my motor be my guest. If you price together how much it is to balance, blueprint and knife edge the crank its almost cheaper to buy a 4340 crank. The b20 was just an idea cause i found one for cheap.

_entropy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racer034life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im using my money as best as i can. If you want to pay for my sleeves and my motor be my guest. If you price together how much it is to balance, blueprint and knife edge the crank its almost cheaper to buy a 4340 crank. The b20 was just an idea cause i found one for cheap. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How the hell do you figure that? For one you really don't need to knife edge a crank, it really isn't worth anything on a turbo car, and two if your machine shop charges more than about 150 dollars for balancing a 4-cylinder motor dig out the KY because you're getting fucked. You still need to get a forged aftermarket crank balanced for your rotating assembly, so how in the world do you figure you're saving any money by spending 650 dollars on a crank that still needs balancing? That's a few hundred less than you would spend on sleeving, probably works out to be about the same if you get it sleeved at Exospeed.