RE-WIRING IAB AND EVAP (new method)
I plan on doing this wiring (sorry for the lame picture, MS Paint For the Loss) to get my EVAP purge functional again. With the old Evap Purge Plug, I moved A17 to A20 for IAB hookup. I'll leave that alone this time, I am considering splicing the 2nd wire on the IAB plug to go to both EVAP PURGE and IAB. The other wires (both are 2 pin) will go to A17 and A20, respectively the plugs for the IAB and the EVAP on the ECU side. My question is, will this work you think? I am baffled whether or not to try (if the yellow/black in this case is power ground or power source). And how can I verify if the Evap Purge is even functional in this regard? Thanks ahead of time for your help and input!
trying the idea (already discussed over with Luserkid) since i used the original EVAP plug without moving the yellow/black i am going to be brave. if it blows up or something i guess i'm just in time for a new car
i have the correct plug already - and i can run the wire to A20 for EVAP, i just have no idea where the 2nd wire goes for either IAB or EVAP. +, - i'm confused. anyone have any suggestions for pin taps let me know.
pgmfi.org - USDM P72 (OBD1) - The IAB is flipped, which means positive triggered... SO, this idea is valid and is 100%. The yellow/black wire in this regard is believed to be B1, and shares connection with all 4 fuel injectors. JDM P72 (OBD1) is negative triggered just like the OBD2 P72's. Helms is a bit off in this regard. Thanks to Jedi_Sol and some hard thinking but if you use OBD1, USDM P72, you can use this method to splice another wire for evap purge and IAB functionality. The original EVAP PURGE will go to A20 and B1, simply cross wire B1 to another 2 pin jack (like the Evap's plug) and then fresh-wire the red to A17 on the ECU (IAB) and you're set! I hope people find this useful in the future!
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