I am planning on changin out my timing belt and water pump so I took a look in the archives and alot of people were saying they used a speical tool to take out the crankshaft pulley retainer nut, where could I get this from and for about how much? I read someone got one from http://www.summitracing.com and moroso makes it so I took a look and I found part number 61805 http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku not sure if this is the right thing everyone is using but I would assume so, I just don't want to spend $70USD if I'm not ordeing the right part. Thanks guys!

 

Bump!

 

if you have a big enough impact gun you shouldn't need it but if you are doing it with hand tools it is a very good tool to have to make the job easier

 

This is what I do.

Take the starter out. Put a piece of metal in there to catch the flywheel gear to the transmission housing. Works everytime.

A power steering bracket works pretty good.

 

Could I do this without the tool? Or are you saying if I had that tool I could do it that way? Thanks!

 

i had a impact wrench and the bitch still wouldnt budge. make sure you have a gun with enough power to back that bolt out. i think mine is rated at 150 ft/lbs

 

there is discussion of the tool in my thread I made last week @ https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1712855

I ordered the tool and when I went to use it on my d15b8, however it was much too large and wasn't going to help at all. Maybe Amazon sent me the wrong one, but who knows. Anyways, my buddy and I were determined to get the pulley off, so we took the flywheel off, and then put two of the bolts back into their holes opposite eachother, put a breaker bar inbetween them, get your socket wrench onto the crank pulley bolt, and go for the gold. Came off with a lil bit of brute force

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is what I do.

Take the starter out. Put a piece of metal in there to catch the flywheel gear to the transmission housing. Works everytime.

A power steering bracket works pretty good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you run the risk of damaging the transmission if you use that method. there are better ways

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaKINE-Ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had a impact wrench and the bitch still wouldnt budge. make sure you have a gun with enough power to back that bolt out. i think mine is rated at 150 ft/lbs</TD></TR></TABLE>
Holy *** that's a weak gun, most 1/2" impacts dont dip below 350ft/lbs and the Snap-on one i've had for over a year is rated at 850. What brand was this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Froth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Holy *** that's a weak gun, most 1/2" impacts dont dip below 350ft/lbs and the Snap-on one i've had for over a year is rated at 850. What brand was this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehe, i have a 2135Ti and it finally met its match today.....1000ft-lbs isnt enough to move a bolt that seized in a bushing....this happened twice...once it just didnt go...the second one snapped...grade 8 my ***...

 

its altrade or some **** my grandpa bought it for me. i cant complain it was free.

 

yeah when it comes to **** like that, or a spindle nut, air tools are a must....

 

I've had some come off real easy and some that wore my *** out for hours on end. Some cars can use the crank holder tool and others can't. there was one that I ended up using a chain wrench and a bigass breaker bar to get it loose... air wouldn't touch it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civperc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you run the risk of damaging the transmission if you use that method. there are better ways </TD></TR></TABLE>


Ya cause aluminum is like glass. :rolleyes

Been using that method for over two years and dozens of motors. You are never going to damage the transmission. IT wont even leave a mark. Remember the point at which is doing the bracing has some leverage.

 

It depends on what crank pulley you have. Mine was a d15b7 and the crank pulley tool didn't even fit. I had to fab a weird tool to hold the pulley while i yanked on the bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Ya cause aluminum is like glass. :rolleyes

Been using that method for over two years and dozens of motors. You are never going to damage the transmission. IT wont even leave a mark. Remember the point at which is doing the bracing has some leverage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true story... absolute worst case is you'll bust a tooth off the flywheel.... you'd be doin some serious work to do that though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya cause aluminum is like glass. :rolleyes

Been using that method for over two years and dozens of motors. You are never going to damage the transmission. IT wont even leave a mark. Remember the point at which is doing the bracing has some leverage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

did I say aluminum was like glass? jeez dude, it's possible to damage the tranny casing, and there are better methods which involve less brute force, less risk, and less time. That's all I was saying - if your method works for you, then that's fine for you.