ok, when i push in the clutch it goes straight to the floor and you have to liek pull it back to were it was with your hand. so i decided to bleed the system. followed oem specs, bleed it to oblivion and all the dirty **** fluid came out and now its all clean, yet the pedal still does the same thing, it wont come back up, i mean i bled the whole thing and it acts like theres nothing in their whatsoever any help tai!!!

 

bump anyone?

 

i just bled my system bout an hour ago after my motor swap. the way i did it, attach a hose to bleeder screw, end of hose in jar of brake fluid, half full because more will be coming out of the hose. make sure clutch master cylinder is topped off. loosen bleed screw. pump pedal, by hand for a while, back and forth, every 7-8ish cycles get up and replenish master cylinder. make sure it doesnt go dry because you'll be bleeding forever. just keep on with the pumping and make sure that cylinder doesnt go dry. eventually your pressure will be back, and then you can tighten the screw back.

i dont know if this is the right way to do it, but this is how i did it and i was done in 10 minutes. works great.

 

^^^^
correct
this is how it is stated in the helms manual

 

cool, ive only got a ::cough:: chiltons manual. i dont know what anyone else out there thinks, but after going through a motor swap, changing heads and trannys, and all the other crap i've done... chiltons BLOWS ***. waaaaaaay too general


but yea good i was right then

 

thats what i did for roughly 15mins,, and still no pressure >_< bleed clucthes before and it gets pressure, this isent, maybe a possible leak?

 

check the lines. have someone pump and look at the line.

 

you're suppose to open the bleeder then close it immediately, BEFORE you pull the clutch back up with your hands. Only open the bleeder when the clutch is fully depressed, and only pull the pedal up after the bleeder is closed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dangger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're suppose to open the bleeder then close it immediately, BEFORE you pull the clutch back up with your hands. Only open the bleeder when the clutch is fully depressed, and only pull the pedal up after the bleeder is closed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He's fine the way he's doing it, as long as the end of the hose in submerged into brake fluid air can't get in there. Brakes can be bled the same way.

Maybe you just got a bad master cylinder or slave too?

 

yeah i would check under the pedal to see if your clutch master cylinder is leaking. also, a vaccuum bleeder might help. you can buy one at autozone for $25, makes bleeding clutches and brakes soooo much easier. at the last bike shop i worked for, we would bleed disc brakes backwards. fill a syringe with fluid, get all the bubbles out, pump it through the bleeder screw up into the reservoir. worked great. air likes to rise, anyway. haven't tried this one on a car yet.

 

haha i know you have to depress while open the close the pull clutch back, then op then depress so on, i found out there was a leak on the hardline, that comes from the chasis to the trans, so i tightened it more and bled it and got pressure haha

 

sweet! glad you solved your problem