I have never done timing before, and yes I did search and read a ton of info.

First off I have checked all my marks 10 times and everything seems good. Cam arrrows point up, lines on cams run horizontal with head, crank arrow points and dot on crank timing pulley, and white cross hair mark on flywheel is set in the > sight.

My car is not wanting to start. Got it too start a couple times for a short time, and while it was running it sounded pretty good, doesn't want to run though.

Spark on all 4 cyl, fuel seems good, and I have triple checked my plug wires a dozen times. Everything seems fine. Compression numbers 220-230 on all 4.

My main concern is wireing, I am using the F22 harness(had the car running with no CELs before I pulled the motor.

I have everything hooked up (I think) but am unsure if everything is 100% correct. When it did start it through a CEL. However I have since reset my ecu to try and get it to start and now I can not check and see what is was for.

Which components are critical to the engine starting, Sensors etc.

I know that having some not hooked up or hooked up incorrectly will through CELs, all I wanna do is get it to start for now.

For ***** and grins I decided I would through on my timiing gun and see what it read, just turning the motor over and it reads 20 deg advanced. However I feel this may not be acurate cause obviously it is not to temp. nor at idle.

Any opinions are appreciated.

Thanks

 

don't forget you also need to jump the service connector when adjusting timing

 

I am not trying to adjust my timing yet, I am not sure if I am getting an acurate reading without it runing etc.

 

sounds to me like theres not enough timing advance. Are the marks on the flywheel on tdc or are they offset so many degrees?

 

with the marks on the cam pulleys at TDC, and the crank timing pulley at TDC the flywheel lines up with the white crosshair on the fly wheel

 

I'd try advancing the timing a bit to get it started, then set the timing once its running. I think its needs to be somewhere around 15ish at idle.

To advance it rotate the top of the distributor towards the firewall.

Typically from what I've seen when it acts like it wants to start and just cant keep itself going then it needs more advance. Too much advance and it will start to kick back on you.

 

any clues what it should be while just cold cranking it?

 

not sure how the stock ecu is setup, but my AEM ems uses a value just for cranking, then switches over to the timing map after the engines starts. Mine starts right up 15 degrees advance, but it should be fine at 20 like I think you said it was, but then its hard to tell when you are just cranking too.

Another though... is your map sensor hooked up correctly? I think it has the same plug as the tps sensor so maybe its possible those have been mixed up since theyre pretty close to each other?

 

just an FYI if you wanna check,

TPS wires are:
red/blk
yellow
grn/wht

Map is something like
red
wht
blu

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with the marks on the cam pulleys at TDC, and the crank timing pulley at TDC the flywheel lines up with the white crosshair on the fly wheel</TD></TR></TABLE>

the problem lies somewhere else then, you have to have it running
to use the gun.

So I presume it IS getting spark?

 

TPS is right for sure. Map colors are different.

Yes I have checked all four cyl. for spark checked out good. Replaced spark plugs, and fuel filter. Also double checked for fuel which it is getting.

 

can anyone verify what colors the map wires should be?

Any other opinions?

What sensors etc. are critical to the engine starting?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What sensors etc. are critical to the engine starting?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you getting fuel? Check all the grounds also - had a problem once where the car only ran for a few sec if even then stalled out. I think there's one @ the t-stat housing, and anoher ground @ the tranny itself. There's another one v-cover -&gt; timing-side mount -&gt; chassis (3-spots there). hth.
-l8r

 

never hurts to go through this thread either
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=970610

 

Map sensor wiring is:

Red/Wht
Wht/Blu
Blu/Wht

This was taken off a diagram for a 1994 h22 vtec Prelude chassis.

You said ur colors were different? what are they? an F22 harness could be different, not sure.

 

What color are the sparks from the plugs? They need to be blue when cranking to start. If white or yellow then its your distributor/coil/ignitor problems...

 

figure it out yet?

 

do you have an OBD2 H22? If so, you cannot adjust timing without converting to OBD1 and tuning yourself. There is an ignition control module in the distributor that controls the timing advance via the ECU for emissions at idle. And maybe i misread the thread, but you arent trying to read the timing with the car off are you? if you point the timing light at the view hole in the tranny housing the red line should be lined up when at normal operating temp and idle speed. if not you replace the ICM, thats all you can do.

I was kinda confused by the thread. does your car not run at all?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have an OBD2 H22? If so, you cannot adjust timing without converting to OBD1 and tuning yourself. There is an ignition control module in the distributor that controls the timing advance via the ECU for emissions at idle. And maybe i misread the thread, but you arent trying to read the timing with the car off are you? if you point the timing light at the view hole in the tranny housing the red line should be lined up when at normal operating temp and idle speed. if not you replace the ICM, thats all you can do.

I was kinda confused by the thread. does your car not run at all? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no, his problem was getting it to run in the first place.