decided it was time to check the compression and the spark plugs....plugs looking good and heres the compression check ( as a rem. this is a b18c1 with 90+miles on orginal engine...no rebuild and headgasket has never been replaced)

1:230
2:230
3:225
4:225

the comp numbers look good but kinda higher then the last time I check....I think last time I checked it was 205 across the board and this was maybe over a year ago......

is this the norm for higher milage cars
comments.....

 

But does she swallow?
Readings look o.k.
Higher readings could be due to different tester, different test method, carbon build up on pistons, etc. etc.

 

true true....I did do the tester a little different than usual...I warmed the engine and pulled all plugs and unplug the injector harness

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diversegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">true true....I did do the tester a little different than usual...I warmed the engine and pulled all plugs and unplug the injector harness </TD></TR></TABLE>

The engine is supposed to be dead cold, with the distributor harness unplugged so you don't ruin the primary and secondary rotors. Also, the throttle needs to be completely pressed in to fully open the throttle body.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The engine is supposed to be dead cold, with the distributor harness unplugged so you don't ruin the primary and secondary rotors. Also, the throttle needs to be completely pressed in to fully open the throttle body.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've done from a dead cold engine...but I also read on H-T that it probably be better to do it from an warm engine.....and I did have the throttle fully open......thanks for the FYI about the dist

 

damn come blow me too...

 

compression tests are always supposed to be done with a warm motor. What good is a cold test going to tell you? You don't run with a room temperature motor, do you?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Its that kidfolk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn come blow me too... </TD></TR></TABLE>
your sister stated that was a little "out of the norm" for her

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Readings look o.k.
Higher readings could be due to different tester, different test method, carbon build up on pistons, etc. etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what can I do to get rid of existing carbon build up and for future build up!!!???

 

What if you have zero silicon forged pistons with a large piston to wall? Wouldn't it only really seal well when the car warms up and the pistons expand?

 

Comparing one test to another--or testing with a different tester, or different weather will all give you different readings. Its not the actual numbers (unless they all read 70 psi or something), its the fact that they are very close which is important and at least points to a healthy motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Comparing one test to another--or testing with a different tester, or different weather will all give you different readings. Its not the actual numbers (unless they all read 70 psi or something), its the fact that they are very close which is important and at least points to a healthy motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">compression tests are always supposed to be done with a warm motor. What good is a cold test going to tell you? You don't run with a room temperature motor, do you?</TD></TR></TABLE>


thanks ...

 

my friends dad that works for honda... says the only difference with the higher miles v.s. the lower are higher comp readings.. so I would say yes that looks normal.. and as long as each cylinder have the same readings.. or close to the same readings

 

its the most accurate to do a comp test with the engine at operating temp, and the TB at WOT. just unplug the fuel pump fuse and your good. no need to unhook the dist, nothings going to burn up.