I have a B20 bottom block with a 1.5" crack on top of cylinder #2.. What are my options to fix it or build it.. Is it worth it to get it re-sleeved or just buy a good b20 bottom block? Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkcivicpn0i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> just buy a good b20 bottom block</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

if you have the time send it out to get sleeved...

 

sleeved it.
it will last longer than stock sleeves

 

Dart block if you have the money but don't have the time

Definately worth the piece of mind

 

re-sleeve it.

How many miles did you do before it cracked and whats your CR anyway?

 

it was given to me for free and the guy that cracked it had revd it til 9 @ 12 psi on a supercharger. Just wanna know my options with it. My plans on it is to build it so that I can use it to replace my ITR bottom block (currently on the car).

Sorry to be off topic but would it be cheaper for me to just have my ITR bottom block bored out to a 2.0 or to re-build this B20b block?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkcivicpn0i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would it be cheaper for me to just have my ITR bottom block bored out to a 2.0 or to re-build this B20b block?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will need to sleeve either block if you plan to build a 2.0L. It would be better to sleeve the ITR block and avoid the hassles associated with CR-VTEC conversion, but that would mean parking the car while the work is done. If you sleeve the B20 block, you can keep driving the car while the block work is done and deal with the conversion bullshit later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20C5 Turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You will need to sleeve either block if you plan to build a 2.0L. It would be better to sleeve the ITR block and avoid the hassles associated with CR-VTEC conversion, but that would mean parking the car while the work is done. If you sleeve the B20 block, you can keep driving the car while the block work is done and deal with the conversion bullshit later.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I was thinking, that's why I took the block, in hoping to work on it and still drive my car. Which one would be cheaper to do though?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkcivicpn0i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's what I was thinking, that's why I took the block, in hoping to work on it and still drive my car. Which one would be cheaper to do though?</TD></TR></TABLE>

cost for doing either is the same. id say do a 1.8 so you dont get hassled for the b20 stamp on the block.

 

I've talked with earl at laskey racing about this very issue and according to him it's virtually impossible to save a cracked b20 block. Maybe your block hasn't cracked far enough down that's it's completely trash though.