How to: Factor X hood pin install...
Well I got my car back finally. I will post pics as soon as I can of the hood. Last night we installed the locking hood pins. Here's how we did it...
1. We insterted the bolt with the grabber for the pin into a hole directly above the light housing. The bolt is 3/8" and the hole had to be widened a bit. The bolt also had to have about 3/4 cm cut off of it.
2. We folded 2 squares of masking tape (1cm x 1cm) and placed them ontop of the bolt. Then we closed the hood and had the tape stick to the hood. We now knew where to drill.
3. We started with a small bit and drilled from the bottom up to the top of the hood where we could just barely see the hole. Then we drilled (with the drill IN REVERSE) through the hood and increased the bit size until we got to 3/4".
[We drilled with the drill in reverse so it wouldn't grind up the sides. When we went forward it was grabbing and hacking at it. In reverse it kindof sands the hood away]
4. We cut a 3" x 1" hole in the bottom of the hood to fit the disk on the bottom of the CF. The spot where we drilled had the frame of the hood there. So there were 2 levels to cut through. The oval shape let us slip the disk in. To cut the oval we used a dremel with a sanding bit on it. It let us shape the hole how we wanted it.
5. The pin has a T shape that twists into the lock on top of the bolt. Since the hood is on an angle where the pin is, it didn't want to twist in. The "T" was more like "/" so we cut off on side of the T and made it into an L. This way it fit into the lock.
6. We assembled the disks and key lock onto the hood. Then lowered it to get the right height for the locking bolt. We had to adjust the bolt so it had about 1/2 a cm of thread showing ontop.
If this was at all confusing, or if u have any questions just let me know. I'll try to get pics as soon as i can.
[Modified by Xerzex No...., 6:46 PM 4/21/2002]
1. We insterted the bolt with the grabber for the pin into a hole directly above the light housing. The bolt is 3/8" and the hole had to be widened a bit. The bolt also had to have about 3/4 cm cut off of it.
2. We folded 2 squares of masking tape (1cm x 1cm) and placed them ontop of the bolt. Then we closed the hood and had the tape stick to the hood. We now knew where to drill.
3. We started with a small bit and drilled from the bottom up to the top of the hood where we could just barely see the hole. Then we drilled (with the drill IN REVERSE) through the hood and increased the bit size until we got to 3/4".
[We drilled with the drill in reverse so it wouldn't grind up the sides. When we went forward it was grabbing and hacking at it. In reverse it kindof sands the hood away]
4. We cut a 3" x 1" hole in the bottom of the hood to fit the disk on the bottom of the CF. The spot where we drilled had the frame of the hood there. So there were 2 levels to cut through. The oval shape let us slip the disk in. To cut the oval we used a dremel with a sanding bit on it. It let us shape the hole how we wanted it.
5. The pin has a T shape that twists into the lock on top of the bolt. Since the hood is on an angle where the pin is, it didn't want to twist in. The "T" was more like "/" so we cut off on side of the T and made it into an L. This way it fit into the lock.
6. We assembled the disks and key lock onto the hood. Then lowered it to get the right height for the locking bolt. We had to adjust the bolt so it had about 1/2 a cm of thread showing ontop.
If this was at all confusing, or if u have any questions just let me know. I'll try to get pics as soon as i can.
[Modified by Xerzex No...., 6:46 PM 4/21/2002]
I drove home from the shop ~25 minutes, and got up to highway speeds ~75 and it was fluttering a little on the sides. But the was before we closed a little gap in the front. Then I realized I forgot the pins back at the shop and had to drive back
. But in the interum we lowered the latch grabber. On the way there and back it didn't flutter too much.
So I guess to answer your question, no it doesn't NEED it, but I feel alot more secure with it. I just drove 300 miles to Miami today, and with the pins it didn't move at all.
. But in the interum we lowered the latch grabber. On the way there and back it didn't flutter too much. So I guess to answer your question, no it doesn't NEED it, but I feel alot more secure with it. I just drove 300 miles to Miami today, and with the pins it didn't move at all.
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From: Couple SW99 40 Cal. For Ya, Do Ya Really Want It.., NJ, U.S.A
I think if you lowered the latch lock and put the ruber triming on, it will be just fine.
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