well guys, im a newb on here, so my appologies for not understanding how to use the search function quite yet..........but i am swapping in a b18a1 i got for $100 but it has bad compression in cylinders 1 and 2......so i figure i might as well go fully built right away cause i can afford it. i want to run the first step larger than stock bore, and i want to yeild about 10:1 or 10.5:1 compression. i was wondering what components are reccomended best bang for buck, i dont want to spend a crapload, but i understand you get what you pay for. so i want to look at my options. thanks in advance.

 

i dont understand if u wanna go n/a or turbo, but if u wanna go turbo then i would go 9:1 or 9.5:1 cause you will be able to hold more boost.with 10.5:1 it wont be good on your block. but tuning is everything, i personaly wouldnt put 10.5:1 and boost in the same sentence. but good luck with ur build.

edited cause it is possible but i wouldnt do it


Modified by crxbeatinu at 7:53 PM 7/16/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxbeatinu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont understand if u wanna go n/a or turbo, but if u wanna go turbo then 10.5:1 isnt gonna work out that good u will detinate the **** out of it if u go more than like 5-6 lbs of boost. but good luck with ur build</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please, shut up. Thanks.

Alright. First thing you mentioned, you want to run a larger bore. Get pistons that are 81.5mm bore and have the cylinders honed to 81.5 mm (i think thats the correct term usage). Then you obviously need to find 81.5mm pistons, forged pistons like Wiseco or CP,etc. Next get some forged rods (like eagle, manley, carillo, etc). I would also balance the rotating assembly. And rev the b18a1 (or b18b1?) to 7500rpm. If you want, for an extra $800+ dollars, you can have 84mm bore with a block resleeving. Then you would need 84mm pistons.

10.5 compression ratio will be fine. Turbos love high compression but your BLOCK will probably not. You wont detonate with a higher compression, you just need a BETTER TUNE. Its ALL in the tuning. Let me make that clear again. ITS ALL IN THE TUNING. You get the right tune, and you won't detonate anything.

 

The internet is a great place. One thing I can tell you is there is no such thing as too much research.

Personally, I love Endyn. If Wiseco wasn't good enough, Endyn came in and took the same core they make but improved its efficency. Thermal grooving provides relief at the tip of the piston along the rings. They also provide coating and other services. From what I've heard, JE has a good solid piston, yet I've seen better numbers with better pistons. CP pistons are good at making stroker kits and modifying the Honda engine. My least favorite is ARIAS, as they seize quite often if not allowed the time to heat up on a cold start.

Thats just one component of your entire engine. Every piece adds a little towards one aspect of the engine, while it might take away from another. Free flowing usually ends up in high end, but takes away from the bottom.

Unlike Mach69's comment, FI are enemies of high compression. A large amount of airflow with high compression is not easily possible with the open-decked design of our B-series. If you mean they make more power with higher compression, talk about stating the obvious. Maybe you should look into diesel community; try running 12.1:1 with five pounds of boost. Yes it has been done on John's ITR but you're not him.

You might be better off running 9.5:1 for turbo or 11.5:1-11.7:1 for a all-motor street car. I say 11.7:1 is the highest you can run daily driver without any problems at all. People run 12.1:1 on a daily basis as well.

Never skimp on the essentials. You need just as much cooling and lubricating force as horsepower. A frankenstein swap (B18A/B16A) is possible and quite easy to attempt at this point in time. Make sure you get the right timing and oil setup before jumping into it.

Tuning is everything as mentioned. Get a nice Crome Pro OBD-1 setup or Uberdata. You will get some nice advantages over Hondata with the same "live tuning". OBD-1 runs stronger, I speak with experience with OBD-2ab and OBD-0.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drSquish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unlike Mach69's comment, FI are enemies of high compression. A large amount of airflow with high compression is not easily possible with the open-decked design of our B-series. If you mean they make more power with higher compression, talk about stating the obvious. Maybe you should look into diesel community; try running 12.1:1 with five pounds of boost. Yes it has been done on John's ITR but you're not him. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sigh. Obviously higher compression makes more power. Why are you even mentioning diesel and 12.1:1 compression ratio? Who cares about John. Im talking about 10.5:1 compression ratio on a gas engine. Before I start my counter point, diesels have like 18:1 compression ratio. If anyone wanted to run 12.1:1 compression with a turbo it could be done. What turbo?

There is this one engine that has OVER a 10.5:1 compression and has made over 600whp on the stock block. What engine is this? Ah, thats right, the K-series. Many people boost this engine making well over 300whp reliably and drive it daily lasting years. Let me repeat myself, Turbos love high compression. The engine blocks do not like high compression with forced induction as much as a turbo would. HOWEVER, with a proper tune, it doesn't matter. A proper tune is key to forced induction. What does the K-series have to do with a b18? Its an example stating how a high compression motor can hangle forced induction. Btw, Its an 11:1 compression ratio.

If I were to build an engine for F/I, the compression ratio would between 9:1 to 9.5:1. Thats just my opinion, but if you want 10.5:1 compression go for it. Lets say you boost a b18 with a 9.5:1 compression ratio to 20psi and make 400whp. While to make 400whp on the 10.5:1 compression it would take 15psi (this is just an example). Thats how you deal with the higher compression. You make the same power, reliably.

Also, Proper tunning is need. Otherwise it wont matter if you have a 9:1 compression ratio or a 10.5:1, it will detonate and melt the piston.

It generally is better to have a lower compression on a F/I motor than a higher compression. It can be done.

Basically, what I am trying to say, it wont be a problem to have 10.5:1 compression with a turbo. You just need a good tune.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drSquish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tuning is everything as mentioned. Get a nice Crome Pro OBD-1 setup or Uberdata. You will get some nice advantages over Hondata with the same "live tuning". OBD-1 runs stronger, I speak with experience with OBD-2ab and OBD-0. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll agree with this. But also point out that OBD-0 does have turbo edit and I dont care about obd2


Modified by Mach69 at 8:08 PM 7/16/2006

 

See now your getting technical for no reason. When I said High compression makes more power it was adjusting the second point. Now your reiterating what I just said. Rediculous.

I mentioned diesel because they run 20.1:1 and turbo all day long. Think about it smarty pants.

 

Wouldnt your turbo work less if you had higher comperssion.. or be more efficient?

i would think (and i can be totally wrong here so dont tell em to shut up...) that higher compressiosn wouldmean you could run a smaller or less efficient turbo?