Clutchmaster FX300 review (PART II)
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Crazy Canuck, Everywhere
Ok… I this time the clutch lasted 3 days before I again had to remove it. They say 3 strikes and your out, but in this case Clutchmasters have run out of chances and I will NEVER run one of their clutches again.
For those who missed part one go hear:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1683348
Here’s the problem now:
First, the issue with the pressure plate springs contacting the clutch disk was completely gone.
My second observation was that the clutch release point was very high up in the stroke, but I didn’t think much more then this but it may very well have been an indicator that something was wrong.
As I drove around with the clutch I quickly began to notice bearing noise that was coming from the transmission. My first reaction (besides a few profanities) was that the main shaft bearing was going in my transmission. I also observed that I could feel engine vibrations through the clutch peddle near the beginning of the stroke, something I never remember feeling before.
So last night the transmission came off again and I arranged to drop my transmission off at Acura Monday moring to have some bearings replaced as well as check the condition of the syncro’s etc.
I do a quick inspection of the clutch and I notice right away is that the pressure plate springs are not all sitting at the same height off the clutch disk hub. I bring out the calipers and do some precise measuring to see what’s up. I numbered the springs 1-18 and recorded each measurement.
My findings:
1: 0.654”
2: 0.650”
3: 0.653”
4: 0.640”
5: 0.640”
6: 0.637”
7: 0.642”
8: 0.638”
9: 0.612”
10: 0.619”
11: 0.622”
12: 0.630”
13: 0.639”
14: 0.643”
15: 0.650”
16: 0.644”
17: 0.650”
18: 0.628”
The total difference of 0.040” is huge. This could easily explain why I was feeling the engine through the clutch and explain the bearing like noises.
So I’m going to back up this piece of S**T clutch and look for alternatives; the stock clutch is looking very attractive right now!
For those who missed part one go hear:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1683348
Here’s the problem now:
First, the issue with the pressure plate springs contacting the clutch disk was completely gone.
My second observation was that the clutch release point was very high up in the stroke, but I didn’t think much more then this but it may very well have been an indicator that something was wrong.
As I drove around with the clutch I quickly began to notice bearing noise that was coming from the transmission. My first reaction (besides a few profanities) was that the main shaft bearing was going in my transmission. I also observed that I could feel engine vibrations through the clutch peddle near the beginning of the stroke, something I never remember feeling before.
So last night the transmission came off again and I arranged to drop my transmission off at Acura Monday moring to have some bearings replaced as well as check the condition of the syncro’s etc.
I do a quick inspection of the clutch and I notice right away is that the pressure plate springs are not all sitting at the same height off the clutch disk hub. I bring out the calipers and do some precise measuring to see what’s up. I numbered the springs 1-18 and recorded each measurement.
My findings:
1: 0.654”
2: 0.650”
3: 0.653”
4: 0.640”
5: 0.640”
6: 0.637”
7: 0.642”
8: 0.638”
9: 0.612”
10: 0.619”
11: 0.622”
12: 0.630”
13: 0.639”
14: 0.643”
15: 0.650”
16: 0.644”
17: 0.650”
18: 0.628”
The total difference of 0.040” is huge. This could easily explain why I was feeling the engine through the clutch and explain the bearing like noises.
So I’m going to back up this piece of S**T clutch and look for alternatives; the stock clutch is looking very attractive right now!
My God man, what a horrible experience
. Thanks for sharing though and basically warning others.
My ACT HDSS is going in on Friday. I am also having my tranny looked at checking the basica condition of the synchros and gearing. The Gearspeed carbon coated synchros looking temping.
. Thanks for sharing though and basically warning others.My ACT HDSS is going in on Friday. I am also having my tranny looked at checking the basica condition of the synchros and gearing. The Gearspeed carbon coated synchros looking temping.
Get the Action 1KS clutch. I've been running this clutch for 3 years with zero problems. It comes with a kevlar friction surface for the clutch disc (better suited for a roadracer, not for drag racers). Best part about this clutch is it feels like stock with a slight increase in pedal stiffness (barely notice-able).
go stock and be done with the insanity!
I had a clutch where the springs were at different heights as well after I removed it when having clutch problems. The clutch disk was torn to bits with chunks missing from the pads. The company blamed it on installation and wouldnt refund me, would only give me a new one at cost. I refused and moved on.
Are you positive you are installing everything correctly? I know numerous people who have used their clutches with no problems (as well as others who have had problems).
I had a clutch where the springs were at different heights as well after I removed it when having clutch problems. The clutch disk was torn to bits with chunks missing from the pads. The company blamed it on installation and wouldnt refund me, would only give me a new one at cost. I refused and moved on.
Are you positive you are installing everything correctly? I know numerous people who have used their clutches with no problems (as well as others who have had problems).
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From: Crazy Canuck, Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you positive you are installing everything correctly? I know numerous people who have used their clutches with no problems (as well as others who have had problems). </TD></TR></TABLE>
I’m 100% positive that this problem was not induced by me. I am very particular about screwing the bolts down one revolution at a time until the pressure plate is sitting against the flywheel. I then go and torque them down in proper sequence. I just reinstalled the clutch assembly on my old stock flywheel (I still have it sitting around) and reconfirmed the measurements made earlier.
I took the release bearing and was able to rock it back and forth on the pressure plate springs due to the varying height of the fingers. No question as to where the noise was coming from now…
I’m 100% positive that this problem was not induced by me. I am very particular about screwing the bolts down one revolution at a time until the pressure plate is sitting against the flywheel. I then go and torque them down in proper sequence. I just reinstalled the clutch assembly on my old stock flywheel (I still have it sitting around) and reconfirmed the measurements made earlier.
I took the release bearing and was able to rock it back and forth on the pressure plate springs due to the varying height of the fingers. No question as to where the noise was coming from now…
Im **** about my clutch installs as well. If its acting poorly, it completely ruins the "feel" of the shift and car altogether. Makes it no fun to drive.
I dont doubt thats where the noise and vibration is coming from. But what caused the springs to become like that? Poor quality/defect so they dont return to their correct spring heights after flexing? I never got a clear answer when I had a similar problem with a different clutch.
I dont doubt thats where the noise and vibration is coming from. But what caused the springs to become like that? Poor quality/defect so they dont return to their correct spring heights after flexing? I never got a clear answer when I had a similar problem with a different clutch.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,637
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From: Crazy Canuck, Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... But what caused the springs to become like that? Poor quality/defect so they dont return to their correct spring heights after flexing? I never got a clear answer when I had a similar problem with a different clutch. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have no idea... but I can say that this pressure plate was doing this from the get go with no heat cycles. It just seems to be poor quality control if you ask me...
I have no idea... but I can say that this pressure plate was doing this from the get go with no heat cycles. It just seems to be poor quality control if you ask me...
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Holy smokes! Not again. 
This is highly unlikley it is not an install error by the master mechanic Baby Nsx.
Sad to hear that you had to waste all your time on this clutch and it didn't work the second go.
So with all this ripping out and installing, the million dollar question is -- how fast are you at removing a ITR tranny now?
The next post I want to see a "part III OEM clutch disc review -- never stray from OE.." . Not these Clutch"b*stard" posts...
Good luck!

This is highly unlikley it is not an install error by the master mechanic Baby Nsx.
Sad to hear that you had to waste all your time on this clutch and it didn't work the second go.
So with all this ripping out and installing, the million dollar question is -- how fast are you at removing a ITR tranny now?

The next post I want to see a "part III OEM clutch disc review -- never stray from OE.." . Not these Clutch"b*stard" posts...
Good luck!
I got 2 suggestions for ya:
1. Use your ITR pressure plate (I believe that Clutchmasters is nothing more than ITR pressure plate painted white anyways.)
2. You can buy an ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate by itself, and use it with the CM disk. (You will benefit from the Kevlar Disk from CM and more clamping force from the ACT PP)
But, I will say it again. I dont like Sprung clutches, they always seem to find a way to come out of the retainers.
1. Use your ITR pressure plate (I believe that Clutchmasters is nothing more than ITR pressure plate painted white anyways.)
2. You can buy an ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate by itself, and use it with the CM disk. (You will benefit from the Kevlar Disk from CM and more clamping force from the ACT PP)
But, I will say it again. I dont like Sprung clutches, they always seem to find a way to come out of the retainers.
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