Well I had the clutch in my car for a total of 2 days before I took it out.

I was experiencing some ticking noises when the clutch peddle was fully pressed. The pressure plate springs were contacting the clutch disk so I adjusted end-stop on the clutch peddle to the point where the noise was almost gone. Removing it completely meant that I had no dead band where the clutch was “completely” disengaged.

While the clutch was still drivable I didn’t feel confortable knowing the clutch was never fully disengaged (not very good on the syncros).

After removing the clutch (only took me 1.5 hours this time) I decided to see why it was doing this, and did I screw up installing it?

It didn’t take long to see what I believe is the answer.

First, here’s the damaged OE clutch (after 80k of service):


And the new FX300 clutch:


You can see that when sitting on the clutch shaft the disk sits between an area of 6-14mm (total of 8mm thickness):


By comparison you can see that the FX300 clutch disk sits between an area of 3-12mm (total of 9mm thickness):


The pressure plate springs are contacting the clutch disk right where the clutch springs are being retained.


Here you can see the damage that was being done to the pressure plate as the springs were contacting the clutch disk:


There is no difference in spacing between the FX300 and OE clutch (26mm).
FX300:


OE:


The added thickness of the FX300 (it is new) obviously requires a slightly longer stroke to disengage it. When you subtract minimum clutch disk measures from the clutch spring retainer height you see that the when the clutch is resting on the flywheel the springs retainers for the FX300 are sitting 3mm closer to the pressure plate springs. That combined with the required longer stroke makes for a very tight situation.

I’m not sure if I just happen to have a bad clutch or if this is design related, looking at the construction of the clutch I can’t see anything out of place so I’m tempted to question the design.

I’ll be returning this clutch and likely going back to stock… I know there are some that will say “I told you so…”

Does anyone have any other thoughts on this?

Doug

 

why does the clutchmaster disk say exedy on it

stock clutch is perfectly fine for small to mild bolt on setups. we dont gain that much torque in these motors from bolt ons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clip the apex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why does the clutchmaster disk say exedy on it</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought the same thing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clip the apex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock clutch is perfectly fine for small to mild bolt on setups. we dont gain that much torque in these motors from bolt ons. </TD></TR></TABLE>

true but that this clutch should still have worked. Without the problem with the pressure plate springs this clutch did feel great.

 

Clutchmasters actually doesn't really make clutches. We ( I am contracted to Daikin / Exedy Global Corp. ) sell them the cover and disc for that performance clutch made to their specifications because we have manufacturing facilities and the tooling to actually make it. Then they source everything else from some Korean and Taiwanese companies to get their final product. Alot of performance clutch companies do this, thats why i say go Exedy, we're OEM on 99.9% of japanese cars and were not a clutch put together from other companies ( I know i'm not the only one that's heard nightmare stories of ACT and others ). A hyper single would be much more suited to your application then that.... just IMO

 

ComeOnKip,

What's a hyper single?

I just got off the phone with Clutchmasters about my problem. They tell me there is a 6 spring version of the FX300 which should solve my problem...

 

check out the clutches they have on passwordjdm.com, look at the hyper single flywheel and clutch package. I have one on my S80 tranny now (clutch works great, trannys shot to ****). Drives like stock, never slips ever, even when i abuse it silly. If the price point is a little to high for you, check out the stage 2, it handles a bunch of horsepower as well.

I get to do a little shameless self promotion and a product review in one post. Sick!

 

good little write up there buddy!! tell them you're done taking chanced with their product and politly ask for a refund because you're a nice guy if not then i'll be next to call them for you

and yeah, the OEM clutches in most Hondas can handle double the HP the car comes with from the factory. OEM all the way, the Hyper Single is right there with it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN.R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good little write up there buddy!! tell them you're done taking chanced with their product and politly ask for a refund because you're a nice guy if not then i'll be next to call them for you </TD></TR></TABLE>

what...does...that...even...MEAN!

and oem honda clutches will absolutely NOT hold double the horsepower (maybe Ds or Fs). I don't even wanna hear any arguement to the contrary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They tell me there is a 6 spring version of the FX300 which should solve my problem...</TD></TR></TABLE>


Well that's nice. It appears like they didn't bother doing any homework and released something that has issues and they just happen to have an "upgrade" that will solve the problem.

Unless they're sending it out to you for free.... I'd go back to OEM or see if ComeOnKip can give you a special deal on the Hyper Single....

http://www.passwordjdm.com/pro...D=438

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Well that's nice. It appears like they didn't bother doing any homework and released something that has issues and they just happen to have an "upgrade" that will solve the problem.

Unless they're sending it out to you for free.... I'd go back to OEM or see if ComeOnKip can give you a special deal on the Hyper Single....

http://www.passwordjdm.com/pro...D=438</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes... I found it rather amusing (ehem) that they have two versions of the same clutch; they are even stocked under the same part number. If I can’t resolve this Monday with my local distributor then I'll be looking seriously at other options.

The Hyper Single looks like a fantastic clutch, but it’s a little out of my price range, besides I already have a comptech flywheel.

Does anyone have experience with the exedy stage II (Thick clutch) for daily driver use?

 

PR disaster!

They should overnight a replacement to you asap.

Especially admitting that there is a replacement with the _same_ part number!

 

What a shitty situation . Glad I opted for the ACT at this point(I'll have a review once it gets installed). I looked at the Hyper Single very seriously but couldn't justify the cost. I hope everything works out for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Does anyone have experience with the exedy stage II (Thick clutch) for daily driver use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC231_01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thin? LOL. My Stg. 2 looked like a damn 3 puck brake pad! You sure your not talking about the Thin Stg. 2 and not the Thick? </TD></TR></TABLE>

That was the member that called me out on me thinking there was only a thin version available. Try IM'ing him

I think I can say I've driven on the thick version because the thick one is the version they offer from Spoon I believe. 1st/Reverse gear is just something you need to get used to. It's not too difficult of an engagement. The pedal travels feels shorter and there is an increase in pressure slightly.

Otherwise, it is liveable albeit not as smooth as a full face sprung disc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Does anyone have experience with the exedy stage II (Thick clutch) for daily driver use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

stage 1 not an option?

 

I don't think it would be wise to use stage I for daily driving.

It's got very thin friction pads and it has been killed in about 1.5yrs of driving. Your mileage will obviously vary depending on traffic conditions and how good you are to the clutch in general....

but these obvious facts aside, I would choose the stage II, since transmissions aren't exactly very easy to pull for the average person.

 

That's weird, I've had the CM Stage 3 (I'm assuming that's the same thing as FX300) for a while now and have loved it. No problems with engagement or disengagement either.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's weird, I've had the CM Stage 3 (I'm assuming that's the same thing as FX300) for a while now and have loved it. No problems with engagement or disengagement either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Perhaps you were lucky and had the 6 spring version of the clutch installed. I received the 4 spring version which, according to Clutchmasters, has a higher spring pack height (which my measurements show).

You're flywheel might also be machined to a thinner deck height. I know very well that mine was resurfaced to the 0.110" that Clutchmaster recommends but if you go thinner the disengagement will happen sooner. This will alow you to reduce the clutch peddle travel and not run into the problem I was experiencing; of course Clutchmasters doesn't recommend this.

The two versions are sold under the same part number so you can receive either one unless you clearly specify which one you want when you order.

What truly mystifies me about this whole thing is the fact that the B-series engine has been around for 15+ years and to run into fitment issues with any aftermarket parts at this time is rather surprising.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's weird, I've had the CM Stage 3 (I'm assuming that's the same thing as FX300) for a while now and have loved it. No problems with engagement or disengagement either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, im pushing about 35k on my cluthmasters stage 3 w/out any issues at all. And that is mostly track miles

 

never had any problems with CM stage 3 .......but it was the one with the 6 spring.......I was on my 2nd set after 60K of gear slamming miles...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR908 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">never had any problems with CM stage 3 .......but it was the one with the 6 spring.......I was on my 2nd set after 60K of gear slamming miles...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That makes me feel better about trying the 6 spring version. I'll do some measurements before I install it and post up my findings.

 

Not sure if mine is the 6-spring version or not. I bought it a year or two ago used from JeffS. My flywheel is a Fidanza unit, if that makes any difference, and I didn't resurface it or anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That makes me feel better about trying the 6 spring version. I'll do some measurements before I install it and post up my findings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why dont I just give you my measurements. Ive been through the same as you already. Years ago.

Six spring hub (4-13/16"):


Four spring hub (5-1/4"):


Failed spring retaining hub:


Where it made contact on the Pressure Plate:


My solution/recomendation: If your making power get an unsprung disk, eventually those spring retainers will fail; ask me how I know. Tilton Single (they have an organic disk, but the cerametallic puck disk is surprisingly easy to drive on the street), Exedy Hyper Single/Carbon, or Toda high power single clutch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR#132 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why dont I just give you my measurements. Ive been through the same as you already. Years ago.

Six spring hub (4-13/16"):
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the info! Can you report any issues you experienced with the 6 spring version?

 

I've had my fx300 for about 4 years (about 40K miles), loved every minute of it. When you had the flywheel machined (I assume you did), did they machine both the clutch mating surface and the pressure plate mounting surface?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks for the info! Can you report any issues you experienced with the 6 spring version?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had no problems with the 6 spring version except that the kevlar friction material slips at high rpm/high load. It would be better if the Pressure Plate had a little bit more clamping force. (Possible its the reason it slipped at high load/high rpm) I was making approx. 195whp at the time.
IMO the Pressure Plate is nothing more than an ITR pressure Plate (right down to the red dot on the diaprhagm) painted white.

And as you have experienced, Spring retainer failure and/or springs popping out has been a problem for me with some of the clutch disks Ive gone through, enough that I dont like sprung disks at all.